I recently repaired a Nikon F3 with a mirror linkage issue which involved halving the camera body. The F3 is back together and to my surprise, everything is working. One of the many learning curves I experienced was figuring out how to properly tension the aperture tab relative to the FRE. I am using another unmolested F3 and 50 1.4 ai-s as a tester to verify the light meter accuracy.
Unmolested F3 : 1.4 lens pointed at indoor static light source in A mode : No change in shutter from f1.4 to 2
Repaired F3 : 1.4 lens pointed at same light source in A mode : Change in shutter speed from f1.4 to 2
From then on the shutter speeds on both cameras are aligned as I move the aperture
Example:
Unmolested F3 : 1.4 (125), 2.0 (125), 2.8 (60), 4 (30)
Repaired F3 : 1.4 (250), 2.0 (125), 2.8 (60), 4 (30)
My gut tells me that the unmolested F3 needs an adjustment, because as I'm going up a stop the meter should response. The aperture tab is linked to the FRE via a string, so it's possible the string has lost some tension over the last 25-30 years.
If anyone has an F3 and this lens, can you please perform the test above?
Thoughts / Comments appreciated..
Thanks
Unmolested F3 : 1.4 lens pointed at indoor static light source in A mode : No change in shutter from f1.4 to 2
Repaired F3 : 1.4 lens pointed at same light source in A mode : Change in shutter speed from f1.4 to 2
From then on the shutter speeds on both cameras are aligned as I move the aperture
Example:
Unmolested F3 : 1.4 (125), 2.0 (125), 2.8 (60), 4 (30)
Repaired F3 : 1.4 (250), 2.0 (125), 2.8 (60), 4 (30)
My gut tells me that the unmolested F3 needs an adjustment, because as I'm going up a stop the meter should response. The aperture tab is linked to the FRE via a string, so it's possible the string has lost some tension over the last 25-30 years.
If anyone has an F3 and this lens, can you please perform the test above?
Thoughts / Comments appreciated..
Thanks