Can I just put a bigger brighter bulb in my enlarger for faster times?

[GaryFlorida]

The further I go from the easel the dimmer it gets. Can I just use white LED or a brighter bulb in the lamphouse for faster times and easier focusing?

 

[ac12]

#1. Check the specs on your enlarger. Do NOT put a higher wattage bulb than the enlarger is rated for. If you do, you could overheat the enlarger and cause a fire.
#2. Check your enlarger lens. If it is a slow lens (50/f4), replacing it with a faster lens (50/f2.8) will give you a brighter image for easier focusing.
#3. Stick to enlarger bulbs. They have even diffusing vs. household bulb where who knows how even the diffusing is. As for LED replacement bulbs, I have seen some LED bulb replacements, and the light is from the top half of the globe. The bottom half appears to be solid, IOW no light. So,
- If the bulb is directly above the lens and positioned vertically (some Omegas), it might work.
- If the bulb is positioned vertical and the bulb reflects off a mirror (Durst) then it will NOT work because you only have the top half of the globe providing light.
- If the bulb is directly above the lens and positioned horizontal, then it will NOT work, because you only have the top half of the globe providing light.

BTW, what enlarger do you have, what size film, and what size prints are you talking about?
For my normal use, a 75watt bulb in my Durst M600 is sometimes almost too much light.

 

[Ian Grant]

It depends also on what enlarger and light source you are talking about. Enlargers like my De Vere 5108 with it's colour head have cooling fans because the 4 bulbs combined are giving out 2000w of light and a lot of heat.

My Durst M601 used a 150w 240v enlarger bulb with a condenser head, I still have one with the CLS colour head and that uses a 100w 12v halohen bulb which gives a lot more light output.

Check the manual for your enlarger to make sure you are using the right wattage bulb, if there's more than one option the higher wattage.

Ian

 

[jose angel]

Latest high wattage LED bulbs are quite bright, but you need to check if they work in your enlarger. Powerful ones are too big to fit (e.g. Beselers, which have a smallish lamp housing), some need to be modified (e.g. Dursts, for the reason act12 mentions). I have tested some samples and they work fine.
Factory bulbs are too bright to my taste. I`m used to work in the 15-20 seconds range for dodging/burning, the original bulbs print my negatives in the 5-10 seconds range at best. And I like to check focus at working apertures, so the grain gets dim but it`s ok. I`m used to it.
As said above, check if the bulb you`re using follow the manufacturer`s recommendation. Maybe it has been replaced.

 

[Rick A]

Refer to your owners manual to verify you have the correct bulb to begin with. Then if the manual lists an alternate bulb, go ahead and upgrade.

 

[tkamiya]

What enlarger do you have?

Omega DII and D2 (that I have) are both rated for 75 watts and 150 watts. For 150 watts use, heat absorbing glass is recommended. If you use too high of a wattage, you could have exposure time that are too short. Also, if you have problems with negatives buckling under heat, it will be worse.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I and other printmakers here in Toronto have been using 250w bulbs in these enlargers for over 20years.. they burn out faster... but really make a difference on larger prints...
But they are indeed rated for the lower wattage- therefore I cannot recommend their use.

What enlarger do you have?

Omega DII and D2 (that I have) are both rated for 75 watts and 150 watts. For 150 watts use, heat absorbing glass is recommended. If you use too high of a wattage, you could have exposure time that are too short. Also, if you have problems with negatives buckling under heat, it will be worse.

 

[GaryFlorida]

I have a Beseler 23CII XL. The bulb in there is very small. I thought maybe an LED since it makes more light and very little heat. I dont know what wattage the stock bulb has but I would like it brighter. I plan to print 35mm,6x9, and 6x6 and I would like to make 16 x 24, 16x24 and 24x24 respectively.

I have the Beseler Color Pro 50 2.8, Componon 50 and 80. Im still looking for a good 105 of some sort or another.

I use Beseler universal glass carriers. I plan to make drop in masks for the various formats. So buckling and popping negatives is not a problem. Im going for maximum film flatness and sharpness.

I think an LED would be great unless there is some problem with LED illumination and enlargers.

Thanks for any input

Gary

 

[ic-racer]

The further I go from the easel the dimmer it gets. Can I just use white LED or a brighter bulb in the lamphouse for faster times and easier focusing?

It depends. Which enlarger head? Which bulb is in there now?

 

[480sparky]

There is the possibility that the enlarger doesn't have the maximum wattage lamp installed to begin with.

I was given a used enlarger last year when I wanted to get back to wet printing. When I first tried to use it, I thought, "My God! I don't remember the image being so blessed dim!" So I pulled the lamp out. It was an anemic 15-watt bulb. So I checked the manual, and it could take 150. So a quick trip to Home Depot solved that problem in short order.

 

[GaryFlorida]

It says 75 watts max on a sticker on the frame. I dont know whats in there now, it has no markings on it. Im sure its the original bulb though.

It points down so the light is directly over the condensor. It says replace with PH140 but does not say watt wattage (he he get it?) that bulb is. Anyone know anything about that bulb? Is it just a regular tungsten filament bulb or does it have some special gas in it or what to make some special wavelenght of light I dont know.

I guess the PH140 IS a 75 watt bulb and max is 75 watts so thats that.

Maybe I can get more lumens from a LED? They are small, and bright and low heat. But what wavelength?

It just seems so dim when cranked way up.

 

[Truzi]

It says replace with PH140 but does not say watt wattage (he he get it?) that bulb is. Anyone know anything about that bulb?

Let me Google that for you.

 

[480sparky]

LED might be brighter, but you may have color temperature issues. So if you're using contrast filters in b&w printing, that may well be affected.

 

[jose angel]

As said above, the lamp housing on the Beseler 23C is not so big... so I wonder if the latest Philips 13.5watt LED bulbs will fit. They may be brighter than the 75watt tungsten original ones, but you as they are slightly bigger, you need to know if they fit or not. Lower wattage bulbs fit and work (they are smaller in diameter, say Philips 9,5 watt ones and below), but they are, at best, about the same brightness of the 75watt tungsten original.

About the color temperature and MG filters. For sure the gradation is not exactly the same as with other bulbs or in the papers but, who cares. In my experience, original bulbs aren`t perfect too. Just use warm white ones (around 2700-2900ºK), and never look back.

If you plan to enlarge that size, the 75watt tungsten ones should work. I`d not use a brighter tungsten one (e.g. 150w Photocrescenta), the thing will get even hotter. Too much risk for the filters in the drawer. And I don`t see the need of it, sincerely.

You say you look for maximum sharpness; it means a perfectly aligned enlarger in all planes. The 23CII is not a champion in this respect, so you`ll have work on this. (And very likely, to spend on this).

 

[GaryFlorida]

...

You say you look for maximum sharpness; it means a perfect enlarger alignment. The 23CII is not a champion in this respect, so you`ll have work on this.

ya so I have heard but its the enlarger I have and its basically brand new. It has adjustment screws on it for side to side and front to back parallel with the baseboard. Also has locking carriage t nut. What else must be aligned? I have read some posts about custom lensboards that are adjustable. Im willing to do that and make whatever modifications I need to hot rod this Beselr and make the thing sharp. I dont see why its not possible. Granted its not a milling machine. I use a universal glass carrier for flatness. I dont want to give up on my table top enlarger. The floor is concrete slab, there is no vibration. No radio, no talking etc.

When I say maximum sharpness, I dont mean the maximum humanly possible. I only mean the maximum of my capabilities, equipment and budget.

 

[Rick A]

If you find your enlarging times are excessively long, then you need to adjust your shooting technique to compensate. You may be over exposing your negatives. I have owned several 23Cii's over the years, with just about every enlarging head available, and the basic ph140 bulb is sufficient to make 16x20 enlargements in a reasonable time.

 

[Bob Carnie]

If the bulb has writing on the bottom you may want to re consider ... enlarger bulbs do not have writing on bottom.

There is the possibility that the enlarger doesn't have the maximum wattage lamp installed to begin with.

I was given a used enlarger last year when I wanted to get back to wet printing. When I first tried to use it, I thought, "My God! I don't remember the image being so blessed dim!" So I pulled the lamp out. It was an anemic 15-watt bulb. So I checked the manual, and it could take 150. So a quick trip to Home Depot solved that problem in short order.

 

[jose angel]

Agree with Rick.

Gary, it`s not that the 23Cs are not adjustable, for sure they are, it is a good enlarger. The thing is that the adjustment system is not so... fine? All parts have a more or less loose fit, so it takes some effort to have them perfectly parallel.
In fact, the lensboards you mention were made to avoid the pain of the original alignment design. Think that I had to align this stage every time I change the lens. They really make the task way easier.
Well, I have used this enlargers for quite a long time, so if I can help I`ll be glad.

 

[GaryFlorida]

Agree with Rick.

Gary, it`s not that the 23Cs are not adjustable, for sure they are, the thing is that the adjustment system is not so... fine? All parts have a more or less loose fit, so it takes a lot of effort to have them perfectly parallel.
In fact, the lensboards you mention were made to avoid the pain of the original alignment design. They really make lens alignment quite easier. Think that I have to align this stage every time I change the lens.
Well, I have used this enlargers for quite a long time, so if I can help I`ll be glad.

Thank you Jose. Have you ever used these magic lensboards that I was mentioning in my earlier post? Also, what have you found works well to get them the best aligned?

 

[480sparky]

If the bulb has writing on the bottom you may want to re consider ... enlarger bulbs do not have writing on bottom.

Reconsider what? Going from an über-dim 15 watt to a 150 watt that's permitted?

 

[jose angel]

Yes, I used to use one made by a well know american third party manufacturer, cannot remember the name (Delta?). It works, it`s not a quality item, but works. I`d get one of them. It uses an allen key to adjust the three axis.
After that, I made a lens stage plate of my own design, so I can use circular lens boards that I mount on a similar three axis holder. It can be adjusted with the fingers, instead of using a key. Very comfortable.
Personally, I like Versalab Parallel best. For a start, you can use a piece of glass and a bubble level, but if you can afford it, a dedicated laser tool will save you a lot of time.

 

[wiltw]

It says 75 watts max on a sticker on the frame. I dont know whats in there now, it has no markings on it. Im sure its the original bulb though.

It points down so the light is directly over the condensor. It says replace with PH140 but does not say watt wattage (he he get it?) that bulb is. Anyone know anything about that bulb? Is it just a regular tungsten filament bulb or does it have some special gas in it or what to make some special wavelenght of light I dont know.

I guess the PH140 IS a 75 watt bulb and max is 75 watts so thats that.

Let me Google that for you.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/203502-REG/Wiko_PH140_Lamp_75.html

I am always puzzled by the fact that folks can find a forum to ask a question, yet are unable to find basic information easily found on the web before posting the question to the forum!

Bulb info may be engraved into the metal of the base.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Home Depot is not noted for selling enlarger bulbs... you may start seeing 150watt in you prints and start wondering where this pattern comes from.

Reconsider what? Going from an über-dim 15 watt to a 150 watt that's permitted?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

You cannot put bulbs in an enlarger at whim. It can, and usually will; cause uneven lighting, whether it be hot spots in center, or other problems. Testing needs to be done to determine potential problems.

a panel array of white LEDs might work. Heiland Elektronikcs in Germany sells a conversion for many enlarger brands but you may need a new mortgage,even though they work great and control lighting and contrast.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Also - is this a condenser enlarger you're talking about? Are you using the proper condenser? If it is a dichroic enlarger, are you using the proper mixing chamber for the format? These will have an effect on how long/short your exposures are - using too big of a condenser/mixing chamber for your film format will reduce the amount of light getting through your negative/lens, and slow down printing times. Perhaps not to the same degree as changing bulb wattage, but nonetheless, it will have an effect.