Can i develope paper with Kodak hc-110

[IOS]

Im making my first attempt at printing tonight and was wondering if i can use hc-110 as the developer ? The paper im using is Ilford multigrade iv rc deluxe. Also is there a developing chart for paper online ? Do i mix the stopbath and fixer the same way i would when i develope film ?

Thank you .

 

[Ian Grant]

Probably, but it's not ideal. Have a look at the Ilford website there are some excellent PDF files on all aspects of B&W processing.

Ian

 

[IOS]

Probably, but it's not ideal. Have a look at the Ilford website there are some excellent PDF files on all aspects of B&W processing.

Ian

Ian, thank you for responding and for the Ilford link. I will get the Ilford paper developer tomorrow. It's 1am here in chicago and i have the urge to make my first print and i only have Kodak hc-110 and Calbe r09 developers, i know it sounds crazy but i cant sleep with all the excitment over me making my first print and im trying to find how i can use the developers i have here. I guess i need photography rehab very bad.

jim

 

[Ian Grant]

Jim, some people have used Rodinal as a print developer, so as RO9 is the old Rodinal formula you could give it a try. Don't dilute it too much, maybe 1:10 or 1:15.

Ian

 

[IOS]

Jim, some people have used Rodinal as a print developer, so as RO9 is the old Rodinal formula you could give it a try. Don't dilute it too much, maybe 1:10 or 1:15.

Ian

Should the mix be stronger then the mix i use for film ? I use a 1:40 when i develope film. The developer is not Rodinal its Calbe r09, does that make a difference ?

Jim

 

[Ian Grant]

Calbe RO9 is just the original Rodinal formula which continued in production in East Germany, the West German Agfa Rodinal (now made by A&O) is just a newer improved version.

Yes as I suggested use it stronger or you dev times will be far too long. Try 1+10 if thats too fast dilute it a bit more.

Ian

 

[IOS]

Calbe RO9 is just the original Rodinal formula which continued in production in East Germany, the West German Agfa Rodinal (now made by A&O) is just a newer improved version.

Yes as I suggested use it stronger or you dev times will be far too long. Try 1+10 if thats too fast dilute it a bit more.

Ian

Ian, thank you very much for the advice ! I will be heading down to my basement to try my first print. Thanks again !!

Jim

 

[Jerevan]

Just for the fun of it, check this recipe for Rodinal as a paper developer: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

I have been thinking about trying this out, but I have never gotten around to it.

 

[IOS]

After 12 prints i started to improve. I will hit the supply store today to get more paper, would you reccomend Ilford paper ? I was thinking Kodak but the way things are going with Kodak dicontinuing everything i dont want to get used to their paper and they pull it like everything else.

Thankls for your help .

 

[jim appleyard]

There's a page here for using HC-110 as a paper dev:http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

 

[gainer]

Years ago I routinely used HC110 for prints, but I added some carbonate. I used the 1+31 dilution and added about 1 tablespoon of washing soda per liter. The actual amount of carbonate is not very critical. I don't know what they are selling for washing soda these days. I haven't seen it in my local stores recently. A somewhat smaller amount of pH Plus or anhydrous carbonate will work. The carbonate helps to produce true black where it belongs in about 2 minutes.

 

[phritz phantom]

yes, i did this about half a year ago when i ran out of eukobrom and sodium carbonate (that's why i wasn't able to mix together something else)
i used dilution A and it worked fine. very contrasty, even more than eukobrom, iirc. the paper was kentmere fineprint vc baryte glossy.

 

[rwyoung]

After 12 prints i started to improve. I will hit the supply store today to get more paper, would you reccomend Ilford paper ? I was thinking Kodak but the way things are going with Kodak dicontinuing everything i dont want to get used to their paper and they pull it like everything else.

Thankls for your help .

Kodak got out of the B&W paper business a while back.

Ilford MGIV is good stuff. Use and enjoy, then branch out to other paper types and manufacturers. Good source of small packages is Freestyle Photo (Google is your friend).

 

[IOS]

There's a page here for using HC-110 as a paper dev:http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Jim, Thank you for the link !!

 

[hywel]

Yep, Kodak won't work for B&W paper any more. Ilford MGIV RC is great. But read through this forum and there's not a paper on the market that isn't somebody's favourite. But for the time being stick with RC and with variable contrast and print and print and print some more. I got through a box of a hundred in my first week. Boy it's fun isn't it. And then, when you think your prints are perfect, investigate other papers.

Enjoy,

Hywel

 

[dancqu]

Should the mix be stronger then the mix I use for film ?
I use a 1:40 ... Jim

That dilution should be OK for starters although a liter
of working strength at that dilution would have who knows
how much capacity. One print or roll of film would do for me
as I use chemistry very dilute once then dump; one-shot.

Add a tablespoon of sodium carbonate, washing soda, per liter
for prints. Prints need a more alkaline developer. Dan

 

[IOS]

That dilution should be OK for starters although a liter
of working strength at that dilution would have who knows
how much capacity. One print or roll of film would do for me
as I use chemistry very dilute once then dump; one-shot.

Add a tablespoon of sodium carbonate, washing soda, per liter
for prints. Prints need a more alkaline developer. Dan

Thank you Dan for your advice.

Jim

 

[pentaxuser]

. I will get the Ilford paper developer tomorrow. It's 1am here in chicago and i have the urge to make my first print.

jim

Pity that makes it about breakfast time in the UK otherwise a guy called Simon Galley of Ilford might just open a bottle of Scotch! Seriously it's this kind of enthusiasm that will keep analogue going.

Don't forget two important non Ilford ingredients called food and sleep. Take both in reasonable quantities. No measurments needed

pentaxuser

 

[dancqu]

So as not to leave a wrong impression I will briefly detail my use of
chemistry very dilute one-shot. The method is very nearly the same
as rotary drum processing using one-shot chemistry. Rather than A
drum I use A tray. Solution volumes are more than used when
drum processing; 8x10s, 300ml +/-.

A question has been made of my disposal of that amount of developer
and fixer. More questionable though is disposal of that amount of water.
Surprisingly high dilutions are practical to use. So, very little chemistry
goes down the drain, so to speak.

Processing times are longer but films and papers go directly from
developer to fix. The fix being very dilute washes faster and
with less water. Not least, each roll or print has it's fresh
chemistry. No testing of or doubting the chemistry. Dan