Can I change push/pull in camera during the same film

[silvercloud2323]

hi ,
Can I change push/pull in camera during the same film. I own a canon A1 camera and shoot black and white.

 

[Paul Howell]

Sorry, no, it is best to expose a roll of film the same as you cannot change the development time, meaning that if you are pushing you extend the development, if pulling then you are reducing development. In end some negatives will be overexposed others underexposed.

 

[silvercloud2323]

Sorry, no, it is best to expose a roll of film the same as you cannot change the development time, meaning that if you are pushing you extend the development, if pulling then you are reducing development. In end some negatives will be overexposed others underexposed.

Thx Paul. I understand now.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Get thee an Exakta: the camera can feed the film cassette to cassette; it has a built-in knife to cut-off a length of film, leaving it in the 'take-up' cassette; keep a supply of empty cassettes at hand.

https://www.shutterbug.com/content/...rex-iia-adequately-complicated-classic-page-2

 

[Paul Howell]

Or a Rollei with interchanable 35mm backs.

 

[AgX]

You already asked a similar question in this thread of yours:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/canon-a1-iso-dial-and-exposure-compensation.190706/
"can an ISO dial be changed in the middle of the film"
On which I replied.

One has to distinguish between

-) exposure compensation for metering within a roll
-) exposure compensation for push/pull within a roll


-) At the first the development is the same. And it is doable.
-) At the second each time exposure compensation is changed, development has to follow. This is only doable within a roll, if before any change the already exposed film is cut off for seperate processing. Alternatively one could note frame numbers and leave one or two safety frames inbetween and only in the darkroom cut te film respectively.

 

[AgX]

Or a Rollei with interchanable 35mm backs.

In this case you do not change compensation within a roll, as asked about, but instead exchange rolls.

By the way, other manufacturers had exchangable 35mm film-backs too.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

If you think you're going to want to change ISO that often, get 24 exposure film, instead of 36, from those who still offer it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If you think you're going to want to change ISO that often, get 24 exposure film, instead of 36, from those who still offer it.

Twenty four exposure rolls of film are hard to find. Buy and use a Hasselblad and you will have the flexibility of interchangeable film backs and much more. Shooting square means never having to turn you camera on its side to get the photograph.

 

[Paul Howell]

If you think you're going to want to change ISO that often, get 24 exposure film, instead of 36, from those who still offer it.

I bulk load as well as buy standard 35 and 24 ex rolls, when in a zone frame of mind and shooting 35mm as few as 8 or even 6. With the leader and end roll waste it does cost more per frame that buying standard loads.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

Twenty four exposure rolls of film are hard to find.

No they're not. I regularly buy Tri-X and FP4+ in 24 in Montreal. And B&H shows plenty of stock of 24-exposure film by Ilford and others.

 

[silvercloud2323]

You already asked a similar question in this thread of yours:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/canon-a1-iso-dial-and-exposure-compensation.190706/
"can an ISO dial be changed in the middle of the film"
On which I replied.

One has to distinguish between

-) exposure compensation for metering within a roll
-) exposure compensation for push/pull within a roll


-) At the first the development is the same. And it is doable.
-) At the second each time exposure compensation is changed, development has to follow. This is only doable within a roll, if before any change the already exposed film is cut off for seperate processing. Alternatively one could note frame numbers and leave one or two safety frames inbetween and only in the darkroom cut te film respectively.

Hi AgX,
Thx, I'm quite a newbie in analog photography and trying to find out things and not making any obvious mistakes.
I realise photography is at the same time simple ,and difficult.

 

[gone]

Can I change push/pull in camera during the same film

Absolutely, you can do this. Will it work? Not so much, unless you're talking just 1 stop or so. If you're willing to lose a few shots and go through all the trouble, you could open the camera in the dark, cut the film, put what's on the take up spool into a light proof container, trim the leader where you cut it, and then thread the rest of the roll back onto the take up spool.

It's a PITA, but most of us have done it at one time or another.

 

[250swb]

You can push/pull a chromogenic C41 process film in-camera, such as colour negative or in B&W Ilford XP2. But the characteristics do change and there is a limit, so generally speaking don't do it, this isn't digital, making decisions before you walk out the house is a large part of film use.

 

[AgX]

Hi AgX,
Thx, I'm quite a newbie in analog photography and trying to find out things and not making any obvious mistakes.
I realise photography is at the same time simple ,and difficult.

But especially do not let yourself getting confused by things as push/pull. That is why I made my explanation above.
And not everything dealt within forums is useful, especially not for a beginner. Stick to basics. Read a camera manual etc. Take photographs.

Use a deviating ISO setting only if the developer you use necessitates such, or (as asked about in your other ISO-setting thread) to compensate for meter error in certain situations, where metered area just no got at average that standard 18% reflectivity or includes light sources).

 

[Alex Benjamin]

do not let yourself getting confused by things as push/pull. That is why I made my explanation above.
And not everything dealt within forums is useful, especially not for a beginner. Stick to basics. Read a camera manual etc. Take photographs.

This is the best advice you'll get, lieven2323. Stick to the basics, in three simple steps: 1) Meter — 2) Compose — 3) Shoot.

If you have a good, reliable meter (be it in camera or off), a fast enough lens, you'll be able to shoot just about any situation with 400 speed film.

EDIT: Should have added "Focus" as one of the steps, of course.