Can a Flash unit for Contax T be repaired?

fabulousrice · Aug 16, 2021

I have the flash unit but I couldn't get it to work. I also have the original boxes and manual. I put it on eBay for $100 but honestly I have no idea if it can be repaired or if it has any value (I cannot post in classifieds here).
Everything is cosmetically perfect, even though it doesn't work.

Can someone tell me if this kind of thing has any value or if I should just dump it at goodwill?

AgX · Aug 16, 2021

I doubt it even is broken.

fabulousrice · Aug 16, 2021

AgX said:
I doubt it even is broken.

Could you be more specific? I placed two new AA batteries inside, screwed it on the Contax T, turned the flash on, waited for the unit to power up, opened the Contax T, took a picture in the dark with the aperture closed all the way, and the flash didn't fire. I tried two new/different batteries and wasted another shot trying to get the flash to fire.

If you know of a better way to test the flash unit, let me know! I would hate to toss something that works and that I could potentially use (even though I don't really take flash pictures so I'd probably try to sell it).

Dismayed · Aug 16, 2021

Sounds like a 'Near Mint' listing on eBay!

fabulousrice · Aug 16, 2021

Dismayed said:
Sounds like a 'Near Mint' listing on eBay!

I've listed it as "For parts" since I can't get it to work! But if it doesn't sell...

AgX · Aug 16, 2021

fabulousrice said:
Could you be more specific? I placed two new AA batteries inside, screwed it on the Contax T, turned the flash on, waited for the unit to power up,...

What do you mean by "power up"?

I got countless electronic flashes. And amongst those powered by primary cells dead ones are a rarity. What well happens is that it may take many minutes for the "charged" indicator to light up at very first charging after aquisition. In very few case the indicator never lit, but the flash could be fired nonetheless. In such cases the actual output should be confimed by metering.

A flash with lit "charged "indicator not firing most likely got a fault at the trigger circuit. So far though I did not experience such.

fabulousrice · Aug 16, 2021

AgX said:
What do you mean by "power up"?

I got countless electronic flashes. And amongst those powered by primary cells dead ones are a rarity. What well happens is that it may take many minutes for the "charged" indicator to light up at very first charging after aquisition. In very few case the indicator never lit, but the flash could be fired nonetheless. In such cases the actual output should be confimed by metering.

A flash with lit "charged "indicator not firing most likely got a fault at the trigger circuit. So far though I did not experience such.

I used "power up" and you used "charged" - I think we mean the same thing (when you turn it on it makes a faint wheezing sound... then the light indicator usually comes on... or not). I will try again and wait a lot longer this time before I fire (and maybe without a film in the camera? If the camera lets me fire without film...). Thanks

ic-racer · Aug 16, 2021

Some flash repairs are easy, others are impossible. Can't tell without having a look.

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/nikon-sb-28-speedlight-repair.176296/

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/rollei-metz-sca-356-adapter-repair.178703/

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/rollei-e36-charger-repair.66114/

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/rollei-e36re-excell-battery-12v-rebuild.68173/

Dismayed · Aug 16, 2021

fabulousrice said:
I've listed it as "For parts" since I can't get it to work! But if it doesn't sell...

You are far more honest than many sellers on eBay. AAA+++

runswithsizzers · Aug 16, 2021

It might be informative to take the camera out of the test circuit. I am not familiar with that particular flash, but many electronic flashes have a 'test' button that will fire the flash manually. Lacking that, I would try to trigger the flash using an insulated test wire across the hot shoe terminals. I would not pronounce the flash as non-working unless shorting the shoe contacts fails to fire the flash.

wiltw · Aug 17, 2021

runswithsizzers said:
It might be informative to take the camera out of the test circuit. I am not familiar with that particular flash, but many electronic flashes have a 'test' button that will fire the flash manually. Lacking that, I would try to trigger the flash using an insulated test wire across the hot shoe terminals. I would not pronounce the flash as non-working unless shorting the shoe contacts fails to fire the flash.

^
'Test' or 'Open flash' or lightning bolt symbol...typically indicates ability to press button to fire the flash unit even though not connected to a camera.
One thing that could have gone wrong is that the power capacitor which stores a charge loses its ability to hold that electricity, because the flash has not had regular 'conditioning' performed on it. Sometimes a capacitor can be re-conditioned (or 're-formed') by charging it up and leaving it turned on in that condition for an hour, without firing.

AgX · Aug 17, 2021

wiltw said:
One thing that could have gone wrong is that the power capacitor which stores a charge loses its ability to hold that electricity, because the flash has not had regular 'conditioning' performed on it.

In such case the "charged" indicator would not light up, which however it is doing so in the OP's case.

wiltw · Aug 17, 2021

AgX said:
In such case the "charged" indicator would not light up, which however it is doing so in the OP's case.

So, given that OP said "the Contax T, took a picture in the dark with the aperture closed all the way, and the flash didn't fire", and the ready light had indeed lit up, the other reasons the flash did not fire could be

flash firing contacts within camera are damaged
connection from camera to flash cable not making good contact
flash cable has a break in its wire
flash itself is not working properly

OP can test #4 with the use of the Test/lightning bolt button to test the flash firing circuit
OP can test #3 by removing the cable at the attachment of the camera, and shorting in center pin to the outer surround, testing cable to flash and the flash firing circuit
OP can test #1 or #2 by using a different cable or borrowing a different flash unit to connect, to verify the problem does not lie within the camera or its integral PC connector.
...

cowanw · Aug 17, 2021

Alas no cable and no test button available. However we do not know if the camera viewfinder shows the flash functions as it should. But you points of failure are still valid, wiltw.

wiltw · Aug 17, 2021

Just looked over the user manual for the Contax T point-and-shoot style camera, and found that there is a setting to turn OFF the use of flash.

And while the flash has no connecting cord, it can be tested off camera by shorting the large center pin of the hotfoot (trigger) to the outer edge of the hotfoot (ground).

beemermark · Aug 17, 2021

The capacitor is probably dried out. I had it happen with a number of flashes that sat in the box unused for a decade or more. You can try powering the flash on and hitting the test button many, many times. Sometimes you can reform the capacitor doing this.

AgX · Aug 18, 2021

No, not fire the flash, but just let it charge for 20 minutes or so. Keeping it under control, for heating up itself or unusual sounds.

BUT in this case the capacitator has been charged correctly.
(Unless the indicator lights up prematurely, but I can not imagine such happening.)

Don_ih · Aug 18, 2021

The camera has a disconnected wire or the flash has a disconnected wire or the flash bulb itself is blown. I just had a flash bulb blow in a Pentax Sport. Surprised the hell out of me.

fabulousrice · Aug 18, 2021

Dismayed said:
You are far more honest than many sellers on eBay. AAA+++

Thanks! 607 transactions, 100% positive reviews since 2006...

fabulousrice · Aug 18, 2021

runswithsizzers said:
It might be informative to take the camera out of the test circuit. I am not familiar with that particular flash, but many electronic flashes have a 'test' button that will fire the flash manually. Lacking that, I would try to trigger the flash using an insulated test wire across the hot shoe terminals. I would not pronounce the flash as non-working unless shorting the shoe contacts fails to fire the flash.

Do you mean to make all three little pin-shaped contacts "connect" with each other with a piece of metal?
The flash doesn't seem to have a "test" button...

fabulousrice · Aug 18, 2021

wiltw said:
^
'Test' or 'Open flash' or lightning bolt symbol...typically indicates ability to press button to fire the flash unit even though not connected to a camera.
One thing that could have gone wrong is that the power capacitor which stores a charge loses its ability to hold that electricity, because the flash has not had regular 'conditioning' performed on it. Sometimes a capacitor can be re-conditioned (or 're-formed') by charging it up and leaving it turned on in that condition for an hour, without firing.

Thanks - will try

wiltw · Aug 18, 2021

fabulousrice said:
Thanks - will try

One point of debate among us is:
In your prior failed test attempt, did the flash ready LIGHT glow?

If it did NOT glow, the capacitor could be in need of re-forming
If it DID glow, the capacitor is not necessarily in need of re-formng (although doing so is beneficial)...and the issue is what I identified as other possiblities in the triggering

runswithsizzers · Aug 18, 2021

fabulousrice said:
Do you mean to make all three little pin-shaped contacts "connect" with each other with a piece of metal?
The flash doesn't seem to have a "test" button...

Only two of the 3 pins will need to be connected, but without a pin-out diagram for your specific flash, I can't tell you which two. If there is one in the middle that is probably one of them. It should not take too long to try each combination of two pins.

wiltw · Aug 19, 2021

runswithsizzers said:
Only two of the 3 pins will need to be connected, but without a pin-out diagram for your specific flash, I can't tell you which two. If there is one in the middle that is probably one of them. It should not take too long to try each combination of two pins.

The contact in the middle of the hot foot is ordinarilty the Tringger pin of almost all hotfoot flashes.
The edge of the foot is either metal, or plastic with an electrical contact...the Ground

Short #1 to #2 to caus the flash to fire (assuming flash ready light is illuminated)...what I said in post #15

fabulousrice · Aug 19, 2021

SO... I ended up making it work!!
Many thanks to Agx and wiltw - and everyone else whose knowledge about such things is mind-blowing!
After leaving the flash unit powered for long enough, the "Flash ready" light came up and the flash fired. The second time around, it was a bit faster to charge.

I'm probably still going to sell it, but not "for parts" and for a much different price! Thanks a bunch fellow users

Can a Flash unit for Contax T be repaired?

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