camera shutters and capturing motion

[Mainecoonmaniac]

A bit hard to do on location, much less on a bicycle--if you survive. But if the camera you use is a newer one and you can adjust the strobe sync to "late", you can get that effect with a slow shutter speed and on-camera speedlight.

All you have to do is set a slow shutter speed and set your f stop for your strobe. Keep in mind that the shutter must be slower than your sync speed. The faster your shutter speed, the darker your ambient exposure will be. You can definitely use a portable strobe. The advantage of using a short duration is you'll use less power.

 

[Pieter12]

All you have to do is set a slow shutter speed and set your f stop for your strobe. Keep in mind that the shutter must be slower than your sync speed. The faster your shutter speed, the darker your ambient exposure will be. You can definitely use a portable strobe. The advantage of using a short duration is you'll use less power.

But if you drag the shutter and the sync is set to fire near the end, rather than the beginning of the exposure, the blur will trail the subject. Depending on the relative direction of the motion, that generally looks better than being ahead of the subject.

 

[removed account4]

you might consider a graflex sir that takes 120 film
or a graflex national ( some took 120 film).
they are older cameras with roller blind type shutters
that might do well for you, they are not small cameras
and you might consider being static on your feet, instead of wheels
use a slow shutter speed like below 30thS and pan your camera... kind of fun

good luck !

 

[shutterfinger]

The earlier photos were done with an ICA camera that had a vertical travel shutter and used 4X5 film

The FPS in a Graflex SLR and Speed Graphic is similar to the ICA's. The curtain has several openings each being a different height and a tension adjustment to change the travel rate of the curtain to obtain the various speeds of the shutter.
I have tested several Graflex SLR shutters using two sensors, one top and one bottom, each about 1/2 inch into the frame. The average time any aperture takes to travel the 4 inch dimension of the image frame is 40 to 46 milliseconds. The time was measured from lead edge at top to lead edge at the bottom and the trail edge of the opening at the top and the bottom.

 

[Pieter12]

If you want motion blur of people, try walking past them and panning the camera, all at a shutter speed of 1/15 sec or so.

 

[wiltw]

Just about any SLR or rangefinder 35mm camera from the 1960's and 1970's with a top shutter speed of 1/1000 will have a cloth horizontal travel shutter.
Panning technique will give you the results you want whether the camera you're using has a horizontal or vertical travel shutter but it will take some practice to refine the technique. The ability to select aperture and shutter speed are the only requirements of the tool you use to get the photos you want. A camera is a tool and nothing more.

The exceptions to horizontal travel shutters in cameras from the mid-1960s were the cameras using Copal Square (vertical) shutter: Topcon D1 and the Nikkormat and Konica. In the 1970s there were also the Pentax ME use of Seiko Focal Plane Shutter.