Camera for contact printing

I run it through babelfish. Makes me wonder if it is possible to get greyscales at all with this film:

"Designation and the field of application
For preparing the phototemplates in the production of the articles of microelectronics and printed-circuit boards by the contact and projection methods
Basic technical specifications
Designation of the indices
Value
Photosensitivity (S0.2), unit.
0,6-1,2
The gamma, is not less
5,5"

Ole said:

Matti, it's all about timing. The film (mine, at least) is orthochromatic, so just take it out of the developer when it "looks right". It takes a little practice and you'll get some unprintable negatives until you learn how it's supposed to look...

I just found some data on Tasma's site - http://www.tasma.ru/product.php?product=%D4%EE%F2%EE%F2%E5%F5%ED%E8%F7%E5%F1%EA%E0/%D4%D2-41%CF.html

We need a Russian here!

Click to expand...

I don't have a scanner large enough to scan a 30x40 negative, but I can assure you it's possible to get greyscales!

Ok, thanks Ole. Great then. I suppose all there is to it then is to expose ennough so it can be picked out early ennough.

/matti

Ole said:

I don't have a scanner large enough to scan a 30x40 negative, but I can assure you it's possible to get greyscales!

Click to expand...

A first try with my FKD

Ok, so here are my first tries on my newly aquired FKD 18x24 cm. It is quite fun! But the I feel like a 14 year old developing my first film again... So I probably should be happy I got something!

As you can see, I probably underestimated reciprocity failure. Or maybe the Tasma film was too fogged from old age, or I used too much red light when developing. Yeah, and I am pretty sure I exposed one of the films with the emulsion facing the wrong way. But for some reason, I am not sure which one it is... I am not sure my films have the emulsion side up when opening the packet, Ole! (Then again, I am not totally sure it is the other way around either...) The red stuff is the anti halation layer, right?

The flower is exposed at aperture 11 for four minutes and the other photo at aperture 4.5 (I forgot to step down...) for 16 sec. Maybe there are some reflections due to using the Industar lens wide open. I don't think it is a light leak, since the four minute exposere doesn't show any problem.
I really must work on my workflow to get some results. I don't really know how, but a good idea might be to wait for my Efke 100 to arrive from Fotoimpex. Then, at least, I know I can trust the film.

I developed in HC-110 at F dilution.

/matti

I got something!

So, I finally got some other film than the fogged Tasma-film that came with the camera. I almost thought that shooting 18x24 film in plate holders in a russion camera wasn't the best way to get into LF... But then I got some Efke 100-film so I had one less variable.

I wouldn't call it success but it's a small step in the right direction. And I learned something:

- I need a much heavier tripod. The wind was moving the camera.
- I need to learn how to handle the film without scratching it.
- Dodging while contact printing is something else, it seems.
- I need to work slower, much slower.
- I should stop puting my fingers in the Rodinal.
- My thick jacket is too heavy to use as a darkcloth.

So, It's Efke100 in CalbeR-09 1+40 for 13 mins. Printed on Forte Polywarmtone 14 in Dektol.

/matti