In this thread I would like to start a detailed comparison between these two iconic cameras, and I hope you are motivated to participate as well. This won't be too centered on features, although the differences will be mentioned; i think it's also important to take a look at how they feel differently on actual usage.
I must note that I own two F-1 cameras (plus two F-1N) and i have owned many F2 cameras: F2 Photomic, F2AS F2A. Currently I held on to my black F2SB. I also have a pretty good array of Canon FD and Nikon lenses.
Some important info:
There is really more than one F-1 and F2 camera. The F-1 camera was revisited in 1976 with enhancements to film advance and viewfinder brightness. The F2 was improved through the years with more and more advanced metering heads, and it also was enabled in 1977 to use the new AI series of lenses.
For this comparison I will mainly focus on the original (1971) F-1 camera and the original F2 Photomic, although the possible improvements one can apply to the camera will be mentioned as well.
I won't dwell too much on the history behind the Canon F-1, suffice to say Canon wanted to have a share of the professional segment, and they worked for about 5 (or more) years until releasing the Canon F-1. Part of this project included reducing machining tolerances, a massive leap forward on their optics department, and enormous expenditure of resources. The camera was presented through 1970 and generally available in 1971, the year where Nikon presented the F2 camera, a further evolution of the Nikon F and internally a completely different camera than the predecessor.
I write this post with a F-1 and F2 next to me, so I'm reviewing as I write. Both cameras are fitted with 35/2.0 lenses.
ERGONOMICS - MOUNTING THE LENS
The F2 was released with pre-AI or "non-AI" lenses, which feature the rabbit-ears to couple the meter to the head. Upon mounting the lens, they require the "Nikon twist" which is twisting the aperture ring all the way to the left, and then to the right. Otherwise the meter won't give the correct value. In 1977 this was changed with the AI system, see below.
The F-1 doesn't require any of this cumbersome procedure. However in 1971 it was released with "breech-lock" lenses which can be slower to mount for many people. They are relatively more inconvenient for smaller lenses, and probably are more convenient when using huge or heavy lenses. In 1979 the New FD lenses featured convenient bayonet mounting, and they are easier to mount and dismount, even easier than Nikon lenses since the release button is within the lens.
ERGONOMICS - LOADING FILM
Opening the back: The Nikon requires you to turn the camera upside down, pull the latch handle out with your nail, and then turn this lever 180° to the left. Then turn your camera upright again to proceed to load film.
The Canon only requires pressing the safety button on top of the camera next to the rewind dial, and then pulling up the rewind dial. Easy.
In the Canon, the film winds following the natural curl of the film. (The F2 pulls film in the counter-clockwise direction). This was stated, by Canon, to be done on purpose to prevent emulsion damage at very low (sub zero) temperatures. I find film loading very quick, quicker than in the F2, thanks to how easily the film "catches" the spool (due to following the natural curl).
The Nikon features the convenient film box label holder. The F-1 only gets this improvement starting from the revised model (1976).
ERGONOMICS - HOLDING THE BODY
Here's where I like the F-1 much better. The F2 has good dimensions for my hand (an average adult hand), but the grip realized by the combination of the thumb-index-middle finger feels "just right" in the F-1. This is maybe because the F-1 top is taller thus there's more space to rest the fingers on, where as in the F2 the film back hump feels uncomfortable.
Balance-wise the F2 loses to the F-1 due to the F2 having big viewfinders that incorporate the whole metering circuit, while the F-1 meter is inside the body. A Nikon F2 with plain finder solves this problem, but you lose metering. F-1 is definitely a better balanced camera.
ERGONOMICS - STOP DOWN AND MLU
The Canon has a "control center" that clusters stop down, stop down lock, mirror lock and self timer in the same control. It works well. The F2 clusters stop down and MLU in the same control. When holding the Canon, the middle and ring finger can easily operate all functions without moving your hand out of position.
Ergonomically, left hand is more useful on the Canon, since you can activate the stop-down lever with the left middle finger if you want it. Or with the right middle finger. On the Nikon, stop down is only actuated by the right finger.
Stopping down the lens on the F2 requires more pressure and doesn't lock. Location of this control is good and same in all the F series from the F to the F4, as far as I know.
ERGONOMICS - FILM ADVANCE
Film advance is quieter on the F-1, and quicker (shorter throw) on the F2. The F-1n (1976) features a shorter throw, but i don't have it here for comparison.
ERGONOMICS - SHUTTER BUTTON
Canon and Nikon - It is very easy to find the exact point of shutter trip. Great!
The Canon has an easier (quicker) to use shutter lock, and it's easy to know if the shutter is locked or not., without having to push it.
ERGONOMICS - VIEWFINDER
Here I split the analysis in many sections.
Brightness and ease of focus
This is difficult for me to compare since my F2 doesn't have the first (DP-1) viewfinder but the coveted DP3. Additionally, I have transplanted a F3 screen into my F2 for increased brightness.
Overall, from what I remember, i'd say the stock (F2A) brightness is better than a stock F-1. The F-1 brightness can be improved significantly through installing a Laser Matte screen, which were introduced from the 1980 onwards. I did this, and the viewfinder gets on par with my (improved) F2.
The F-1n (revised model) has a mirror with better light transmission for additional brightness. Probably, a revised model with a laser matte screen has a brightness closer than the one in the New F-1, which is one of my reference cameras concerning viewfinder brightness and clarity.
My F2SB, with my special retrofitted Nikon F3 focusing screens, has amazing brightness. The winner in this comparison, but then i'm not using a standard focusing screen.
Ease of focus is good on both cameras and they allow precise focus, no complaints.
Eyepoint
Eyepoint seems slightly more distant (more comfortable) in the Canon.
Meter display
Here I can speak for hours and hours. The original F2A has a very good display: The aperture value and shutter value can be clearly read, as well as the +/- needle.
The Canon doesn't show the aperture value on the finder. However, it's a match-needle type, so you get a relative idea of how much are you stopping down. Metering window is clear to see in both machines.
The AI viewfinders on the Nikon (DP-3, DP-11 and DP-12) use the "aperture readout" optical way to show the aperture value, and here it's a downgrade -- the numbers are tiny. The improvement, of course, is on the metering indication on the LED meters.
Stop down metering
There's no change in indication, on the Nikon, when you're metering in stop down mode. And you should decouple the metering prong, before mounting the lens, should you want to use stopped-down metering. On the Canon, you don't need to do this, just push the stop down button and metering will still be correct. The meter "lollipop" disappears so you know you're now into stop-down metering mode.
Meter selectivity
The F-1 features "Partial" (quasi-spot) metering and I must say I love this metering system. It gives you confidence. Nothing outside the precisely-defined metering area can influence the meter!
The Nikon has Nikon's 60/40 centerweighted metering, which is good, no complaints.
Meter sensitivity
Here the Nikon wins and by far. Even the F2 Photomic features increased meter sensitivity (from EV1 while the Canon starts at EV3) and quicker response. The Canon meter becomes very slow in low light.
For low light usage, Canon wants you to use the Booster T finder which has amazing sensitivity (-3.5 EV), adds a viewfinder illuminator, and enables long shutter speeds, but it requires you to shut close the viewfinder to take readings.
Meter usability / turn on/off
The Canon has a very different meter circuit, and in the Canon you can leave the meter "on" all the time you want, and it will draw very little current at low light levels or with the lens cap on. I like this, because it relaxes you: the camera and metering is always ready to use, no need to press anything.
On the Nikon, you need to pull out the film advance to activate the meter. And if you have a LED metering head (DP3, DP12), you better don't keep it turned on too long!
Pull out the film advance, meter, shoot, then pull it in. Repeat at each attempt of taking a picture. It's a minor annoyance.
Swapping viewfinders and screens
Much, much easier on the Canon. Taking out the viewfinder is just grabbing it by its side buttons and pulling it out. Easy. The Nikon requires pressing an infamous button that can't be pressed without using some object for assistance, and then pressing down another lever in the finder. Any F2 owner knows how cumbersome is this procedure.
Focusing screen is just taken out using your nail on the Canon. Easy. On the Nikon, you need to press again the infamous button and turn the camera upside down.
Fitting some focusing screens require meter compensation on the Nikon and the compensation can depend on the focal length (there's a table you need to check). The plain matte screen without Fresnel, which I like so much using, is almost useless on metering on the F2: the metering will require very different compensation according to the lens! In fact, if i recall correctly the manual doesn't recommend using the metering together with the matte screen.
No such limitations are present on the F-1, just put the new focusing scrteen and start shooting away.
SHUTTER AND MIRROR ACTION
Exemplary on both cameras. Very smooth shutter, very smooth mirror action.
NOISE
My F2 is slightly quieter than the Canon. They're close. The Nikon F was a quieter machine than both.
MISC - SHUTTER PRIORITY AUTOMATION
Here the Canon F-1 debuted with a "servo EE finder" that allows shutter-priority automation. Fit the finder, couple the finder servo to the body, couple the power cord to your motor drive. Insert a lens, set the max aperture of the lens, and you're ready. The aperture is quickly set by the servomotor since the FD lenses were designed with this operation in mind. Noise is small.
Nikon felt they had to have the same feature so they don't' fall behind, so afterwards they released a horrible contraption called the DS1, The pre-AI (and AI) lenses weren't designed for shutter priority automation, so the DS-1 needs to physically turn the (relatively stiff) aperture ring. Watch youtube videos of this thing in action. It is incredibly noisy and slow. I've read the battery on the DS-1 has a very short life, and it's not hard to see why once you take a look at the videos.
The Canon servo only moves a lever inside a lens, a lever that 'floats' on ball bearings on most of the FD lenses, so it's a much easier, gentler exertion.
Neither accessory makes sense in year 2020.
MISC - LONG EXPOSURES
Here the Nikon has a very clever device that allows you to get up to 10 seconds exposure time by using the self timer. The Exacta Varex cameras had a similar feature. It's very clever and works just fine.
The Canon offers the Booster T finder, which gives you ultra-low metering range, finder illumination, and electronically governed speeds up to 60 seconds. But it's an accesory.
My remarks
The F2 is a very nice camera with superior metering features and impressive viewfinder. However the F-1 is a more ergonomic machine in many levels, thus I prefer it on actual usage.
Soon I will follow-up with a comparison between Nikon F3 and Canon New F-1.
I must note that I own two F-1 cameras (plus two F-1N) and i have owned many F2 cameras: F2 Photomic, F2AS F2A. Currently I held on to my black F2SB. I also have a pretty good array of Canon FD and Nikon lenses.
Some important info:
There is really more than one F-1 and F2 camera. The F-1 camera was revisited in 1976 with enhancements to film advance and viewfinder brightness. The F2 was improved through the years with more and more advanced metering heads, and it also was enabled in 1977 to use the new AI series of lenses.
For this comparison I will mainly focus on the original (1971) F-1 camera and the original F2 Photomic, although the possible improvements one can apply to the camera will be mentioned as well.
I won't dwell too much on the history behind the Canon F-1, suffice to say Canon wanted to have a share of the professional segment, and they worked for about 5 (or more) years until releasing the Canon F-1. Part of this project included reducing machining tolerances, a massive leap forward on their optics department, and enormous expenditure of resources. The camera was presented through 1970 and generally available in 1971, the year where Nikon presented the F2 camera, a further evolution of the Nikon F and internally a completely different camera than the predecessor.
I write this post with a F-1 and F2 next to me, so I'm reviewing as I write. Both cameras are fitted with 35/2.0 lenses.
ERGONOMICS - MOUNTING THE LENS
The F2 was released with pre-AI or "non-AI" lenses, which feature the rabbit-ears to couple the meter to the head. Upon mounting the lens, they require the "Nikon twist" which is twisting the aperture ring all the way to the left, and then to the right. Otherwise the meter won't give the correct value. In 1977 this was changed with the AI system, see below.
The F-1 doesn't require any of this cumbersome procedure. However in 1971 it was released with "breech-lock" lenses which can be slower to mount for many people. They are relatively more inconvenient for smaller lenses, and probably are more convenient when using huge or heavy lenses. In 1979 the New FD lenses featured convenient bayonet mounting, and they are easier to mount and dismount, even easier than Nikon lenses since the release button is within the lens.
ERGONOMICS - LOADING FILM
Opening the back: The Nikon requires you to turn the camera upside down, pull the latch handle out with your nail, and then turn this lever 180° to the left. Then turn your camera upright again to proceed to load film.
The Canon only requires pressing the safety button on top of the camera next to the rewind dial, and then pulling up the rewind dial. Easy.
In the Canon, the film winds following the natural curl of the film. (The F2 pulls film in the counter-clockwise direction). This was stated, by Canon, to be done on purpose to prevent emulsion damage at very low (sub zero) temperatures. I find film loading very quick, quicker than in the F2, thanks to how easily the film "catches" the spool (due to following the natural curl).
The Nikon features the convenient film box label holder. The F-1 only gets this improvement starting from the revised model (1976).
ERGONOMICS - HOLDING THE BODY
Here's where I like the F-1 much better. The F2 has good dimensions for my hand (an average adult hand), but the grip realized by the combination of the thumb-index-middle finger feels "just right" in the F-1. This is maybe because the F-1 top is taller thus there's more space to rest the fingers on, where as in the F2 the film back hump feels uncomfortable.
Balance-wise the F2 loses to the F-1 due to the F2 having big viewfinders that incorporate the whole metering circuit, while the F-1 meter is inside the body. A Nikon F2 with plain finder solves this problem, but you lose metering. F-1 is definitely a better balanced camera.
ERGONOMICS - STOP DOWN AND MLU
The Canon has a "control center" that clusters stop down, stop down lock, mirror lock and self timer in the same control. It works well. The F2 clusters stop down and MLU in the same control. When holding the Canon, the middle and ring finger can easily operate all functions without moving your hand out of position.
Ergonomically, left hand is more useful on the Canon, since you can activate the stop-down lever with the left middle finger if you want it. Or with the right middle finger. On the Nikon, stop down is only actuated by the right finger.
Stopping down the lens on the F2 requires more pressure and doesn't lock. Location of this control is good and same in all the F series from the F to the F4, as far as I know.
ERGONOMICS - FILM ADVANCE
Film advance is quieter on the F-1, and quicker (shorter throw) on the F2. The F-1n (1976) features a shorter throw, but i don't have it here for comparison.
ERGONOMICS - SHUTTER BUTTON
Canon and Nikon - It is very easy to find the exact point of shutter trip. Great!
The Canon has an easier (quicker) to use shutter lock, and it's easy to know if the shutter is locked or not., without having to push it.
ERGONOMICS - VIEWFINDER
Here I split the analysis in many sections.
Brightness and ease of focus
This is difficult for me to compare since my F2 doesn't have the first (DP-1) viewfinder but the coveted DP3. Additionally, I have transplanted a F3 screen into my F2 for increased brightness.
Overall, from what I remember, i'd say the stock (F2A) brightness is better than a stock F-1. The F-1 brightness can be improved significantly through installing a Laser Matte screen, which were introduced from the 1980 onwards. I did this, and the viewfinder gets on par with my (improved) F2.
The F-1n (revised model) has a mirror with better light transmission for additional brightness. Probably, a revised model with a laser matte screen has a brightness closer than the one in the New F-1, which is one of my reference cameras concerning viewfinder brightness and clarity.
My F2SB, with my special retrofitted Nikon F3 focusing screens, has amazing brightness. The winner in this comparison, but then i'm not using a standard focusing screen.
Ease of focus is good on both cameras and they allow precise focus, no complaints.
Eyepoint
Eyepoint seems slightly more distant (more comfortable) in the Canon.
Meter display
Here I can speak for hours and hours. The original F2A has a very good display: The aperture value and shutter value can be clearly read, as well as the +/- needle.
The Canon doesn't show the aperture value on the finder. However, it's a match-needle type, so you get a relative idea of how much are you stopping down. Metering window is clear to see in both machines.
The AI viewfinders on the Nikon (DP-3, DP-11 and DP-12) use the "aperture readout" optical way to show the aperture value, and here it's a downgrade -- the numbers are tiny. The improvement, of course, is on the metering indication on the LED meters.
Stop down metering
There's no change in indication, on the Nikon, when you're metering in stop down mode. And you should decouple the metering prong, before mounting the lens, should you want to use stopped-down metering. On the Canon, you don't need to do this, just push the stop down button and metering will still be correct. The meter "lollipop" disappears so you know you're now into stop-down metering mode.
Meter selectivity
The F-1 features "Partial" (quasi-spot) metering and I must say I love this metering system. It gives you confidence. Nothing outside the precisely-defined metering area can influence the meter!
The Nikon has Nikon's 60/40 centerweighted metering, which is good, no complaints.
Meter sensitivity
Here the Nikon wins and by far. Even the F2 Photomic features increased meter sensitivity (from EV1 while the Canon starts at EV3) and quicker response. The Canon meter becomes very slow in low light.
For low light usage, Canon wants you to use the Booster T finder which has amazing sensitivity (-3.5 EV), adds a viewfinder illuminator, and enables long shutter speeds, but it requires you to shut close the viewfinder to take readings.
Meter usability / turn on/off
The Canon has a very different meter circuit, and in the Canon you can leave the meter "on" all the time you want, and it will draw very little current at low light levels or with the lens cap on. I like this, because it relaxes you: the camera and metering is always ready to use, no need to press anything.
On the Nikon, you need to pull out the film advance to activate the meter. And if you have a LED metering head (DP3, DP12), you better don't keep it turned on too long!
Pull out the film advance, meter, shoot, then pull it in. Repeat at each attempt of taking a picture. It's a minor annoyance.
Swapping viewfinders and screens
Much, much easier on the Canon. Taking out the viewfinder is just grabbing it by its side buttons and pulling it out. Easy. The Nikon requires pressing an infamous button that can't be pressed without using some object for assistance, and then pressing down another lever in the finder. Any F2 owner knows how cumbersome is this procedure.
Focusing screen is just taken out using your nail on the Canon. Easy. On the Nikon, you need to press again the infamous button and turn the camera upside down.
Fitting some focusing screens require meter compensation on the Nikon and the compensation can depend on the focal length (there's a table you need to check). The plain matte screen without Fresnel, which I like so much using, is almost useless on metering on the F2: the metering will require very different compensation according to the lens! In fact, if i recall correctly the manual doesn't recommend using the metering together with the matte screen.
No such limitations are present on the F-1, just put the new focusing scrteen and start shooting away.
SHUTTER AND MIRROR ACTION
Exemplary on both cameras. Very smooth shutter, very smooth mirror action.
NOISE
My F2 is slightly quieter than the Canon. They're close. The Nikon F was a quieter machine than both.
MISC - SHUTTER PRIORITY AUTOMATION
Here the Canon F-1 debuted with a "servo EE finder" that allows shutter-priority automation. Fit the finder, couple the finder servo to the body, couple the power cord to your motor drive. Insert a lens, set the max aperture of the lens, and you're ready. The aperture is quickly set by the servomotor since the FD lenses were designed with this operation in mind. Noise is small.
Nikon felt they had to have the same feature so they don't' fall behind, so afterwards they released a horrible contraption called the DS1, The pre-AI (and AI) lenses weren't designed for shutter priority automation, so the DS-1 needs to physically turn the (relatively stiff) aperture ring. Watch youtube videos of this thing in action. It is incredibly noisy and slow. I've read the battery on the DS-1 has a very short life, and it's not hard to see why once you take a look at the videos.
The Canon servo only moves a lever inside a lens, a lever that 'floats' on ball bearings on most of the FD lenses, so it's a much easier, gentler exertion.
Neither accessory makes sense in year 2020.
MISC - LONG EXPOSURES
Here the Nikon has a very clever device that allows you to get up to 10 seconds exposure time by using the self timer. The Exacta Varex cameras had a similar feature. It's very clever and works just fine.
The Canon offers the Booster T finder, which gives you ultra-low metering range, finder illumination, and electronically governed speeds up to 60 seconds. But it's an accesory.
My remarks
The F2 is a very nice camera with superior metering features and impressive viewfinder. However the F-1 is a more ergonomic machine in many levels, thus I prefer it on actual usage.
Soon I will follow-up with a comparison between Nikon F3 and Canon New F-1.
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