Hi,
Indeed this is right. Measurement is always with white light, the prints with filters aka blue or green. Also for the calibration. Honestly, I gave up calibrating. I got always different results and use the Analyzer with under lens filters instead of color filtering on my Homrich 4x5 Color.
But I do not understand your way of combining a Heiland LED source with an Analyzer. The Heiland Controller and possibly the Comfort Module is the better way and avoids any calibration. I use both with an Heiland adapted non- LED head on my Magnifax 4 what make all quite convenient.
Don't worry about your money, Mr Heiland is very responsive and really reputable. If you have any question about your delivery, just write him an email or give hime a phone call.
I did a lot of sells with him without any problem and never heard anything bad from him in Germany.
Yes, also the Heiland Controller gives you just the starting point. But no calibration with 14 test strips for each paper type that must be interpreted correctly and it operates the LED head fully automatically with the enlarging times and colors for the grades in blue and green.
I have a heiland and i asked him to open the calibration system becasue i have densitometer but he said to me it was so difficult. I would like to do it becasue i use differnet paper and developer that the calibration he has used him.
I would like to create a group of telegram or facebook to discuss, i tried once in the past but had no luck to have more people interested
Sorry, I’m not sure I’m following. You have a Heiland LED light source, right? How do you control it? Do you use an Analyzer Pro? (That’s my setup.)
What do you mean by ‘opening the calibration system’?
I’d be very interested in sharing calibration info with other users of the same system.
Thanks!
I have the main controller and comfort controller, and there is a way to calibrate but there is no manual. Mr. Heiland sent to me that
Please select the Splitgrade paper channel according your paper. In case of a uncalibrated paper use “Other papers”.
Use your paper with a glossy or semi matt surface.
Set the reference point to shadows.
Measure the density between step 2 and 8.
Change the grade to 5 and make a print
Field no. 1 should be really black and field no. 2 should be a little bit lighter. The target values are:
RC-paper: Field 1 -> about 2 logD / Field 2 -> about 1.80..1.85logD
FB paper: Field 1 -> about 2.2 logD / Field 2 -> about 2.0logD
Adapt the exposure time until you get these values approximate
Enter the evaluated exposure offset for the paper
Make a print of a negative you already have printed and adjust the grade offset until the result is fine.
This procedure might not give perfect results, but should be useful in most cases
Yes, also the Heiland Controller gives you just the starting point. But no calibration with 14 test strips for each paper type that must be interpreted correctly and it operates the LED head fully automatically with the enlarging times and colors for the grades in blue and green.
I just recently started with the Heiland controller an must say, I'm amazed how well this works.
finally I bought the split grade!
It’s a marvelous piece of tech, it has shorten my workflow a lot!
I have an eye on the VC head for my old Omega DII. I have a few questions if you don't mind:
- I do not want a fancy printing controller or. I just want to be able to control soft and hard light independently so I can go from full soft to full hard by controlling these separately. An overall light intensity control would be helpful. Does the Heiland controler do this?
- Does it have a built in timer? If so, what is the resolution of the timer? 1 sec? 0.1 sec?
- Is the light source even across the plane of the negative?
Thanks in advance!
I can tell my experience using the led unit from Heiland.
I think that the splitgrade is particularly useful in the dodging and burning mode, here is where you can choose different grades and different exposure times. There’s a particular menu page for these task, it’s very easy to use.
With the Heiland LED light source is perfectly uniform from edge to edge but the consistency is extraordinary.
I don’t know what the splitgrade can do with a non led system but I think that every functions should be granted.
I have been using since Monday and I never printed so much pleasing and satisfying prints in such a short time.
I am interested in the LED head as well, but I split VC print everything and I want to control warm and cold light independently.
If you are not interested in the split grade functions you can use the LED with your existing timer. The LED will be controlled by a B&W controller. these must be connected between the timer and the LED light source. It has tow knob controlling the grade and the luminosity in 0.1 step. doing so you have what you requested. you can choose a time for the high contrast and a time for the low contrast or you can do a strait exposure with mixed light.
Andrea
You can even use both. Juergen Heiland modified a B&W controller fot me with a switch like that I can use my old StopClock timer from Rh Design or the Splitgrade system.If you are not interested in the split grade functions you can use the LED with your existing timer. The LED will be controlled by a B&W controller. these must be connected between the timer and the LED light source. It has tow knob controlling the grade and the luminosity in 0.1 step. doing so you have what you requested. you can choose a time for the high contrast and a time for the low contrast or you can do a strait exposure with mixed light.
Andrea
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