Cable release broke in shutter release

[mporter012]

I have a Fm2n, and the tip of my threaded cable release broke off inside the shutter release. I can't seem to get it out and now I can't use my cable release, because the broken off piece is in the way - if this makes sense.

Any suggestions?

 

[AgX]

-) use a wire of the thickness of the plunger bolt, put a bit of glue around the top, insert into that morsel, let it harden and then try to twist out both.
I would start with general-purpose glue, not epoxy

-) make a twist-out tool from brass or steel. Thus a slightly conical wire, best with grooves or even better with sqare cross-section.

 

[DWThomas]

There are extractors, E-Z Out is a brand, that have a taper and a shallow reverse thread. You screw it in counterclockwise, it gets captured and turns the threaded piece out. They often come in sets. You need one that is a suitable size for your particular problem. They are often used to remove screws that have broken off by drilling a hole down through the screw and then using the extractor.

All that said, you might be able to find (or make) a jeweler's screwdriver with a slightly tapered tip and work it in to get enough grip to remove a cable release fitting.

 

[AgX]

But I do not know commercial reversal-thread extractors small emough to fit into that wire canal.

 

[DWThomas]

I'm not sure what's out there these days; years ago we had some very small ones at a company i worked for.

 

[Trail Images]

I had this happen with a shutter release once and was able to get it out with a very small screw driver. I worked it as if it were an EZ out tool. Obviously, you must take things as surgically as possible and not get carried away. As I recall the flat blade of the driver was a bit of a tapered blade and the threads of the release were only finger tight anyway. Once I pushed the blade in and did a few reverse turns going CCW the tip rolled right out.
Good luck.

 

[Truzi]

Assuming the broken tip does not have a piece of the plunger in it, you may be able to use a reverse threaded screw (do they exist)?

Oddly, I did a little garage cleaning today and am now looking at a 4-way valve stem tool similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Milton-MILS-445-Steel-Plated-Valve-Repair/dp/B002XMSB90

Some claim the tapered end is just a tap, others say it can be used to remove a broken needle valve. I'm not sure which is true.

I also happen to have my camera out as I'm going on a day-trip tomorrow. The tip of the tapered end of the tool just fits into my cable-release (and I mean the end of the release, not the socket in the camera).

You may be able to use something like this to grab the broken part, and tilt the tool at an angle for enough pressure/friction to unscrew it. You would have to be very careful not to foul the threads of the socket.

The tool should be cheap, so a trip to your local auto parts store might be in order. Also, you could try to find a real hardware store - they may have a decent set of extractors.

Actually, perhaps you have a small drill bit that will fit in the hole. Even if not reverse-cut, you may be able to put enough pressure/friction by holding it at an angle to remove the tip. The shank may even work.

 

[AgX]

What is a shank?

 

[Dan Daniel]

I've used a sewing needle to back out broken-off screws. It might work for your cable release. Push the needle into the metal and try walking it backwards.

If there is some of the metal sticking above the surface, a very small amount of superglue on its mating part might work. Use a sewing needle to put very small drops in two or three places, let it set for a few seconds, then unscrew. Of course if you make a mistake in the amount and such things could be much worse.....

 

[Dan Daniel]

What is a shank?

The end of a drill bit that is not cut for actually drilling. "Put the shank of the drill bit into the chuck and tighten the chuck, and make certain that the chuck tightens only on the shank, not the drilling section."

Anyone remember the name of the cut part of s drill bit? You know, the part that isn't the shank?

 

[MattKing]

It might help to do this with the camera upside down, in order to have gravity helping you.

 

[paul_c5x4]

Anyone remember the name of the cut part of s drill bit? You know, the part that isn't the shank?

The word you are looking for is "Flutes".

 

[AgX]

It might help to do this with the camera upside down, in order to have gravity helping you.

Friction would supersede the gravity effect. If that morsel would not stick to the tool one would hav to turn things upside down anyway after a little twisting.

 

[mgb74]

If a tiny E-Z-Out can't be found, you could try a left hand bit (they "drill" counter-clockwise).

 

[jeffreyg]

I just measured from the outer edge to the inner surface of the cable release on my FM2 and it is 5mm. If he measures to the broken piece he will know how much is remaining in the camera. Consider using a tiny Dremel bit or better a very small round dental bur perhaps a #1/4 or #1/2 bur that could be rotated by hand and possibly retract the broken plunger being very careful not to damage the threads. And better yet speak with the Nikon repair dept. before doing anything.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
Dead Link Removed

 

[Alex Muir]

Some shutter button assemblies simply screw off (like the F3). This gives access to the release socket which is basically just a threaded hole with a connecting rod and spring inside. I don't know the FM, but there is probably info online about dis-assembly that would indicate whether or not the button assembly comes off, or whether you need to remove the top plate. Either way, access to, and removal of the broken bit is likely to be easier with the parts removed. You should google FM repair, FM top plate removal, etc to see what you get.
Alex

 

[mporter012]

Ok, let me try some of these remedies and see if I can't get the little piece out.

 

[AgX]

If a tiny E-Z-Out can't be found, you could try a left hand bit (they "drill" counter-clockwise).

A reversed drill? Never heard of that.

 

[mporter012]

Update. No luck so far. The piece that broke off is so small, I cannot even clearly identify it looking inside the shutter release. It's definitely down in there though. This is irritating. The cable release I have is the Nikon AR-3. Don't buy it.

 

[AgX]

You don't need to see it. Try to locate the cable canal by picking and choose a drill just a tiny bit wider than that canal (assuming that canal is mot blocked). Then drill it wider in sucession until you can insert your tool.

Of course this all necessitates that you got a well sorted workshop.

 

[mporter012]

You don't need to see it. Try to locate the cable canal by picking and choose a drill just a tiny bit wider than that canal (assuming that canal is mot blocked). Then drill it wider in sucession until you can insert your tool.

Of course this all necessitates that you got a well sorted workshop.

Won't this strip the threads, rendering a bigger problem, than the one I currently have?

 

[AgX]

The thread is conical, and there is the space taken by the insert even at smallest diameter. And even if the female thread got touched there still would be residual threading due to the conical shape.
More of a problem would be drilling too deep, that is beyond the threading.

 

[Alex Muir]

I tried to get a look at the Nikon cable release today to see what the broken piece would look like. I take it that it is the tip of the threaded end of the device, rather than the end of the plunger rod? If so, you could try magnetising a small screwdriver and using it to try and turn the piece out. Cable releases don't tend to screw in very tight, so it might not take too much torque to start it turning. Assuming you can still fire the shutter normally, the best advice is don't rush to a solution. It may end up a job for a professional repair, but be careful not to make it a bigger job than it is at the moment. I hope you get it sorted.
Alex.

 

[Trail Images]

small screwdriver and using it to try and turn the piece out. Cable releases don't tend to screw in very tight, so it might not take too much torque to start it turning. Assuming you can still fire the shutter normally, the best advice is don't rush to a solution.

This was along the process I mentioned earlier and did remove the piece on a broken tip I had. Again, assuming this is the cable release [sheath] tip and not the actual cable itself. I used a tiny screw driver that was tapered or beveled if you will. It was enough to twist the tip back out. The more I thought about it as they are usually finger tight would a piece of tapered wood inserted into the hole and turned CCW be worth a try. The soft wood might grab the chunk and dislodge it. Obviously, any attempt most be done with care as many have already mentioned.

 

[mporter012]

It appears that I am unable to get this job done myself. So should I just buy a new body, or send it off to get fixed? I also learned a hard lesson in this process - while attempting to remove the top plate, which I never did figure out, I lost 2 small screws, so now I have double the problem I started with! Thanks for the advice.