C41 single use development formulas/ratios

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Hello Folks,

I was wondering if anyone had any information or experience with C41 chemicals and mixing them for single use only.

I want to be able to only mix the chemicals when I go to develop and then dump them when done. I hate mixing my chemicals in 1 quart or 1 liter mixtures to only develop 2 rolls and not come back to it for 3-4 months, to which my chemicals may have already lost most of their developing power.

This would save so much money and time!
 

Donald Qualls

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There was a long thread here on diluting the color developer 1+9, developing for (IIRC) 9 minutes (instead of 3:15), and one-shot, naturally. Now I can't seem to find it, or the user who started it. :blink:

An alternative I'd suggest is, instead of going one-shot, consider chemicals that last almost forever. I've used the Dignan 2-bath C-41 color developer (which you have to mix from raw chemicals, but none are hard to find or particularly hazardous). The first bath contains the developing agent (CD-4), preservative (sodium sulfite), a buffer (sodium bisulfite, to prevent an alkaline pH), and water. The second bath is just sodium carbonate and a little potassium iodide.

The first bath last almost indefinitely (you lose volume by carry-over into the second bath -- this is the actual developer that's doing the work -- but the stuff never seems to get weak), and the second bath is almost free; use it once, and down the drain. You'd then use a standard C-41 or ECN-2 bleach (which you can mix yourself from potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide -- and this, too, lasts a LONG time, and likes air), and any neutral or alkaline rapid fixer. The only commercial chemical you'd need to buy is the C-41 Final Rinse, which has some ingredients that aren't in PhotoFlo or other B&W wetting agents, and isn't practical to mix for yourself (AFAIK).

As a bonus, the Dignan two-bath doesn't require 100F +- 1F (or 102F for some kits, which assume your tank will lose some heat during development); it works fine at 80-90F and doesn't care where in the range (I've used it at 75F, but the results weren't stellar that cool). In my old, uncooled darkroom I usually didn't have to do anything about temperature with this, at least in summer; in my new, over-chilled one, I'll still need my sous vide and a water bath -- which I need for Df96 anyway.

You have to buy about a ten year supply of CD-4 to mix this, and a few other chemicals that don't cost a mint -- but once it's mixed, it costs less to process your C-41 than to use D-76 for B&W.
 
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Damn Donald, Thanks for the information. I will definitely look into this. Did you have any samples of your own developed C-41 using this process?

Also did you have a recommendation on where to buy these items?
 

mshchem

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I put developers of all types in small Nalgene 4oz/125mL (actually hold 140mL when completely full) no matter what batch size.
 

cmacd123

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You may want to consider something like the ZoneV formulas. found somewhere down on this page https://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/c41_ra4_chemicals.htm

they are given to mix a liter at a time, but you can judge if you can measure closely enough to make a half batch.

they were originally published as something you could mix using Kitchen style measuring spoons, although I would use a a scale. I did use them over 30 years ago, and they gave acceptable results for both C-41 and ECN2 films.
 

AgX

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Actually I do not understand the OP's question.

With liquid raw chemicals or liquid compounds prepared by the industry no one keeps you from blending them to just the volume of working solution you want (and even then to toss it after single use).

Furthermore in rotary processing with narrow spirals one even can reduce the employed working bath volume down to very near the minimum volume concerning chemical exhaustion.
Tossing the bath after one use wouild thus mean hardly any loss.

If you want to go beyond such limit concerning chemical exhaustion you might try this (what Donald hinted at):
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...to-be-apprised-of-my-c-41-methodology.142128/



Another thing is making a working solution from a powder compound prepared by the industry. Here one cannot be sure any more, if it was so at all, that the different chemicals are evenly mixed. Here you have to prepare the working bath volume as given by the manufacturer.
 

Bormental

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Actually I do not understand the OP's question.

I also do not understand him. He hates mixing 1L quantities, and wants smaller single-use. Ok then, divide everything by 2 and you'll get 500ml for a medium format roll. Divide by 3 and get 330ml for a 135 roll.
 

Donald Qualls

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Damn Donald, Thanks for the information. I will definitely look into this. Did you have any samples of your own developed C-41 using this process?

Also did you have a recommendation on where to buy these items?

The usual places to buy photographic chemicals (in USA) are Arcraft and Photographer's Formulary. As I recall, I got some of mine each place, because they had different pricing and availability. I recently bought sodium sulfite from an Amazon seller, however.

14.JPG 16.JPG
 
OP
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The usual places to buy photographic chemicals (in USA) are Arcraft and Photographer's Formulary. As I recall, I got some of mine each place, because they had different pricing and availability. I recently bought sodium sulfite from an Amazon seller, however.
Thanks for the samples! Looks good.
 
OP
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If you want to go beyond such limit concerning chemical exhaustion you might try this (what Donald hinted at):
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...to-be-apprised-of-my-c-41-methodology.142128/

I will take a look at this thread. I was unable to find it. Thanks for that.

I guess my question is a bit confusing. I just want to use as little concentrate as possible when i go to develop and throw it out after. I mix the chems at their recommended ratios, but that is to develop 12 rolls. I want to mix to only develop 1 roll.
 

AgX

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As indicated, use the smallest tank you have. For instance one that only takes one film. Furthermore do not invert it, but roll it. Likely you would have to put a strip under the base end to roll it level. By this you yield the smallest bath volume. For instance for the smallest Jobo tank that is 140ml.
If a manufacturer of a processing kit gives a yielf of 8 films with 1L that makes 125ml. You thus are on the safe side.

Thus, to stay with this example, just blend the components of a kit to make 140ml developer working solution and after developing that one film, toss that volume.

If your tank takes more than 1 film, but you still only want to process 1 film,. then you must not roll it, but invert it. Look up at thr tank instructions the minum volume for 1 fim at inversion. (likely about 250ml), and proceed as indicated above.
 
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