C-PRINT VS DIGITAL C-PRINT (LAMBDA OR LIGHTJET) DIFFERENCE IN QAULITY

Hello everyone, this a questions for printers.
I print in my own colour darkroom however only up until 12x16 inch.
Im thinking to buy a processor that prints up to 20x24inch or as my questions suggests someone with experiece and knowledge when comparing a traditional C-print with a digital C-print. If i can find a way for the digital C-print (Using data from my original C-print) to be just as good and close to my origianl print then i may go with Digital C-prints rather than buying a larger processor.

Looking forward to hearing from you

In my response below, I will assume the following:
* That by "C-print", you mean prints on color RA4 paper such as any of the Crystal Archive products (DPII, Maxima etc.) or something like (RIP) Kodak Endura, Royal etc.
* That by "Digital C-print", you mean that the RA4 paper is being exposed from a digital input (computer) using a modulated RGB laser or LED system and that the input is a digital file
* That by "traditional C-print", you mean that the RA4 paper is being exposed with an enlarger from a film (C41) negative.
* That the chemical processing, washing and drying of digital and traditional prints in your case is the same, or similar, and there are thus no influences of the digital/traditional choice on aspects such as print longevity etc. (which are mostly affected by sufficient blixing and washing, not by mode of exposure).

The main differences are:

1: With a digital C-print, it's generally easier to adjust the colors to taste. With optically enlarged prints from film, you have to rely on flashing, masking etc. On the other hand, optically enlarged C-prints give a certain color rendition "out of the box" that may be difficult to emulate when you're working from a digital (scanned) image and digital output onto RA4/AgX paper. It'll take some fidgeting with color adjustment curves to get what you want, and there's a chance you'll get close to what you get with optical enlargement, but not exactly the same.

2: When viewed under magnification, a digitally exposed C-print will show pixelation. Most digital exposure systems work at around 300dpi and even if properly calibrated, the individual pixels are visible when viewed with a (strong) magnifier. With the naked eye, it's very difficult or impossible to see this.

Excellent answer, thank you. Yes you have addressed my exact question.

It all depends on the operator. An expert scan and laser-out put Fuji Crystal Archive print can come quite close to a good optical enlargement (which is hard to find these day), or in fact be a lot better, again depending on who is hypothetically doing which, and what their skill level is. It also depends on how good the film original is. But if you're willing to be patient and do what is necessary to fine tune the learning curve, excellent results can be attained in the home darkroom using a combination of current Kodak color neg films and Fuji chromogenic papers. It's seems you ready have some background in that respect, and hopefully a good colorhead too. Used drums are easy to find, and pre-cut Fuji paper is available up to 20X24 inch size. It's the middle of the road CAii version, decent stuff, but not one of their deluxe premium papers. Also note what Koraks just posted.

nicointheclouds said:

Excellent answer, thank you. Yes you have addressed my exact question.

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Yes it was a good answer and one that in the words of the OP has addressed completely his question so that's the end of the thread, I take it?

pentaxuser

pentaxuser said:

so that's the end of the thread, I take it?

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As far as I'm concerned, there's always room for additions, nuances etc.

Hi Drew,
Thank you for the reply. Any recommendations on used drums?

They're getting hard to find now, but the best common 20X24 drums were actually the cheapest - DEV TEC. I happen to use CPI drums for larger sized prints, but those were custom and expensive. I still use the cheap Dev Tec ones for small prints and test strips. But all kinds of drum brands could potentially be used. I find the Jobo ones a little slow to fill and drain. But in any case, you can minimize print to print variation by lengthening you dev time to around 2 min. I happen to do RA4 at 30C (83F) for 2 min each for Dev and Blix. But water prerinse, stop, and intermediate rinse are 1 min each. Then multiple final wash water changes at the end.

Thank you for the info Drew.