C-41 tray development

[kylewilcox]

I’m trying to figure out whether I’d like to shoot 8x10 color negatives. Mostly, my concerns are methodological rather than whether the color suits my work. That is, how can I develop the film?

Because of the cost of 8x10 color film, I bought a pack of 4x5 Ektar and shot some using a reducing back thinking I could use this to work out my darkroom processes. All my at-home C-41 development experience is with Tetenal Press Kits, which has the been successful and I have a couple boxed kits on the shelf ready to go.

I develop B&W 8x10 in trays, so I was thinking I could do the same for color with some adaptations to better control temperature. Still, something tells me it’s not going to be so straightforward.

Can anyone point me in the right direction here (including existing threads, which I was unsuccessful in finding)? Do I just shuffle them in the trays and do my best to stick to the times and temps in the kit?

Again, the point is to determine feasibility for extending this to 8x10 rather than find a smal-tank solution for the 4x5. I don’t have tanks for 8x10 - just trays. Washing successive negatives is a concern since for the B&W 8x10 I have been tray processing one-at-a-time and washing by curling them into an 8-reel film washer.

I sincerely appreciate any advice you folks can provide!

Thanks,
Kyle Wilcox

 

[koraks]

Given the volumes, surface area and temperature requirements, I think it's a bit of a chore to get this right. Not to mention working in the dark and having to adhere to the 3m15 development time (this doesn't give you much slack in getting the sheet from one tray to the next), I'd much rather look at drums than trays.

I mean, given the cost of 8x10 c41 film, does it make sense to try and skimp on development equipment? Even a fairly affordable CPE2 will likely suffice and be much easier to work with.

 

[Photo Engineer]

DO NOT SHUFFLE SHEET FILM. That is, unless scratches don't bother you. Also, 8x10 temp control is difficult.

PE

 

[MattKing]

Would print drums hand rolled in a water bath be a possibility?

 

[Sirius Glass]

With all due respect for your ability to do tray processing, color development requires strict temperature control and consistency. Therefore based on my experience I have found that using a Jobo processor with an Expert Drum for 4"x5" [3010] or for 8"x10" will give consistent results and is well worth the investment. While the start up cost for the process is high, you will be using the equipment for both black & white and color film and perhaps print processing for the rest of your life. The peace of mind know that every negative will be properly and consistently processed is well worth the investment.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Would print drums hand rolled in a water bath be a possibility?

Yes, but the Jobo is much much better.

PE

 

[AgX]

Also, 8x10 temp control is difficult.

I woud not start the endeavour of tray develoment. But with the developing tray put in tempered, larger tray I do not see that teperatrure control issue. But maybe that hassle already puts it outside the definition of tray development.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I have tried it, and it is very difficult with sheet film and an open tray.

PE

 

[kylewilcox]

Thanks everyone. This is really helpful.

I am not blind to the consensus developing in the replies and I’ll certainly keep my eye out for a Jobo. Still, “perfect is the enemy of done” or something and I feel compelled to at least try the 4x5 film in trays (one at-a-time!) to get a sense of things. I might decide it’s good enough for me just to get going and optimize my setup later. That’s been my darkroom modus operandi.

Thanks again, seriously.
Kyle

 

[Ariston]

To the OP - as far as timing in darkness, I use an Alexa device with a towel over it and tell her how long for each timer. Works like a charm, and those devices are cheap these days.

 

[cmacd123]

not sure if the Stearman press device they are trying to get ready for 8X10 developing. their 4X5 device is like a 4 sheet - sheet film tank.

 

[halfaman]

I would give a try to Jobo paper tanks (2830, 2840), they are quite inexpensive and can be used in a Jobo CP or in a roller base.

 

[btaylor]

No one has brought up film hangars and tanks. They come up on eBay at times. I bought a slim set of stainless 8x10 tanks set in a larger water tempering tank for $150.

 

[kylewilcox]

No one has brought up film hangars and tanks. They come up on eBay at times. I bought a slim set of stainless 8x10 tanks set in a larger water tempering tank for $150.

Thanks, Btaylor.
I think that makes a lot of sense in my situation. I picked up some hangars on ebay and will try to fashion some thin tanks to sink in a water bath.
Kyle

 

[kylewilcox]

Thanks, Btaylor.
I think that makes a lot of sense in my situation. I picked up some hangars on ebay and will try to fashion some thin tanks to sink in a water bath.
Kyle

Also, thanks to everyone else. I really appreciate the comments!
Kyle

 

[Punker]

C-41 in trays is fine. I've done it with 8x10 once without issue. It's not fun, but tray developing on your knees over the tub is never fun

I heated the chemicals up ~3-5F higher than processing temp to allow for some cool down while preparing the film and doing a pre-soak. Developer is the only critically important chemical temperature-wise. Blix can be +/- 5F and Stabilizer at room temp. I used the darkroom timer app on my phone in 'darkroom mode' for timing and just kept the light away from the film.

I used four trays arranged left to right: Pre-soak, Developer, Blix, Rinse. After the last sheet was in the Rinse tray I took the tray out to the sink for the running water wash. Afterwards, I dumped the water and poured the stabilizer in the same tray, agitated, and let sit for a couple minutes. Then simply hung to dry.

Easily doable just not fun. Also your workstation will look like a crime scene from the Blix splashes.

 

[btaylor]

There was a guy named Vinny Walsh over at LPFF that used to make plastic tanks for hangers. You might do a search and come up with ideas.