So if I understand properly what you are explaining, use setting P for processing C-41 film.This is all I could find:
Rotation Motor Control
This switch turns the rotation motor on and sets the speed. '0' is 'off.' The 'F' through '7' settings adjust the rotation speed from about 25 R.P.M. to about 80 R.P.M. (The normally recommended rotation speed is 'P' at approximately 75 R.P.M. with 1500, 2500, and 2800 series, and '4' at approximately 50 R.P.M. with the 3000 series tanks or drums.)
I'm using a 2523 tank for 4x5 shet film and 120 roll film. Is there a Jobo document that you know of that can expalin this?I think so. However, if you were doing C-41 for sheet film in expert drums (3000 series) then you would use "4."
I don't know how they came up with their settings.
This is where I looked:
Dead Link Removed
I use the 'P' setting for all film development (B&W, C41, & E6), except when I am using Pyrocat HD, when I use the '2' setting.
Yes, "2" setting is more appropriate for slow developers like Pyrocat-HD, but I prefer to hand-process my films with Pyrocat-HD due to loss of edge effects in rotary dev. conditions. Do you experience the same with your Jobo?
I've never hand processed film using the Pyrocat, so I couldn't actually say (though I have no complaints about my negatives). I really chose the Pyrocat, because I wanted to use a staining developer for sheet film in the Jobo, though I am really tempted to try semi-stand development with roll films.
Steve, give it a try - with roll films as well as with sheet films. I use for sheets my NIKOR 4x5 stainless steel tank, giving it a gentle inversion and shake every two minutes. The same applies to roll and 35mm films. Due to bromide diffusion, the black details in print will be surrounded with a gentle yet perceptible halo, and the overall sharpness will be higher. After all, this mode of agitation is the only permissible with Nikor without a risk of streaking around the "spider" inner separator part
It's funny that you mention this as I have to set the rotation rate to it's slowest setting to prevent the developer (PyroCatHD) from oxidizing. Once I figured that out my negatives came out perfect. Setting the speed at '3' yielded negatives that were virtually blank.I use the 'P' setting for all film development (B&W, C41, & E6), except when I am using Pyrocat HD, when I use the '2' setting.
It's funny that you mention this as I have to set the rotation rate to it's slowest setting to prevent the developer (PyroCatHD) from oxidizing. Once I figured that out my negatives came out perfect. Setting the speed at '3' yielded negatives that were virtually blank.
that adding 5 - 10 ml/l of a 1% ascorbic acid solution to the working solution helped combat oxidation, and therefore general fog. So I now add 5 ml/l to my working developer, and have noticed a significant reduction in the colour of the exhausted developer; now it is a deep straw colour, rather than the pinky to ruby-red I used to get.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?