I am always offered the option to pick up my negatives later the same day, so the machine seems to be in constant use, rather than running periodic batches. I don't really know what kind of volume they do. I live in a city of about 150,000 population. There is only this one camera store, but of course there are also Wal-Marts, Walgreens, ect. where people can drop off negatives for processing.If the same staff has been running the lab for 30 years, that's a good sign. There's no problem with 30 year old equipment if they maintain it right. Those machines don't last if they're not maintained. The million dollar question is 'how much do they process? '. If they only have enough volume to run it once a week, then the chemicals probably aren't that great and the quality will be poor.
When you say "...the quality will be poor" - one of my questions is, What does poor quality look like?
I have had them process at least half-a-dozen rolls in the past year or two. Two of those were out-dated film from my freezer, and may have slighty underexposed - so they were not reliable benchmarks. With fresh film, the 4x6 lab prints look fine. But if I understand correctly, these old Fuji Frontiers are pretty good at making OK prints even from sub-optimal negatives - yes? no? All of the lab-scans from my local lab, and also from Dwayne’s Photo in Parson's Kansas looked bad with excess grain / noise in the shadows.For me there are two ways to determine if a lab is good or not: reputation and my personal experience. Turnaround time is also considered. Price is not much of a factor. The best option is really for you to give them a try… whoever “them” may be. Why not shoot and process a roll at your local place first?
Previously, my negatives came back from this lab in translucent plastic sleeves. But as discussed <here> - the last roll I got back was just bare negatives loose in a paper envelope. Now that I think about it, I asked them to cut the recent roll to 5 frames, and their plastic sleeves are made to hold 4 frames each. I have not noticed any problems with dust or scratches.Ask them if they use control strips and keep their process within specifications. If they say yes, that is a very good sign.
Are the negatives clean and sleeved when you get them back? If so, that is another very good sign.
If you have a standard C-41 film that you use within date, does the appearance of the negatives (mask colour, density of edge printing and highlights) seem consistent from roll to roll? If so, that is a good sign.
For more than that, you need to get much more technical.
Start by telling them you are trying to teach yourself about how this stuff works, and that you have seen some material about process control strips but don't understand what those are. Ask them if they use them, and can they explain them to you.I will ask about the test strips next visit. But. Previously, when I've asked questions about various topics, the senior lab operator tends to get defensive for some reason. Communication has not been that good.
The only thing that you, as someone inexperienced in these things, would likely to be able to notice is badly handled film, that is, dirty or scratched.
With respect to the proper degree of development, the only direct way to evaluate this is by the use of something known as a "process control strip." These are supplied by a material manufacturer. They consist of a set of test strips precisely exposed by the manufacturer, along with one already processed strip. The processed strip was run through a "correct" process, and serves as an ideal reference. So the lab will periodically process a test strip of their own, then compare the result vs the reference. Both are read via a densitometer, then the differences are compared vs the acceptable tolerances per the manufacturer. Some of the things compared are a low-density vs a high-density patch, where the individual dye layers are compared (the color densitometer can separate these out of a single test patch). These show the overall degree of development as well as the contrast of each dye layer. Additionally the control strip has special patches to evaluate how well the bleach and fix are performing. But... the control strip won't be able check for adequate wash. So this would depend on the lab running the correct replenishment rates.
I think that what I'd do to evaluate a lab is to first watch how they handle film; if they carry it around, letting the end brush against tables or desks, that's a bad sign. This is where individual techs may differ widely. Next I'd ask someone aboug their "process control," such as how tight is it? I'd personally like to see the plots, but presumably you have no idea what to look for, so the best you can do is to ask the tech to give you a quick explanation. Then you judge based on how it sounds. Ask a few questions to see how they respond. If they try to talk over your head, this is generally a sign that they may be blowing smoke. So tell them it's over your head, and people who know what they're doing can generally change the level of their explanation. Some questions you might ask are, how do they set their wash water rate, or how do they know if their fixer is ok, etc. Again, you judge based on whether they have a seemingly legitimate answer, etc. Probably not much else you cago by.
FWIW I'm going by formal quality specs that may not be that important anymore. Scanned images can take care of a lot of problems that would have been an issue, in the past, with optical printing.
Ps, a failure to give good explanations about "process control" doesn't necessarily mean poor quality. All it takes is for one qualified person to be overseeing this, and it's ok. You could have a half-dozen people running the machine who know nothing about process control, but it's ok because the one person has got things in hand. So that one person is the one you want to explain it to you. You might also ask them what happens if something goes wrong while they are not working.
Moderate colour shifts are not a problem - whether you are printing in the darkroom, or using a hybrid approach.
Moderate colour crossover is a problem - whether you are printing in the darkroom, or using a hybrid approach.
Crossover is where the contrast behavior of the red, green and blue responsive emulsion components becomes unmatched. It shows itself with things like green highlights but magenta shadows (or vice versa) when the light levels change for a subject of consistent colour and tone. Such as someone's face, as the light transitions from the highlights on the cheeks, to the shadows under the jaw.
Fixing crossover in the printing darkroom is incredibly difficult - it requires more complexity than you want to worry about.
Fixing crossover in a hybrid approach is more doable, but you don't want to have to do it a lot.
Out of specification C-41 development tends to cause crossover problems.
However, if the lab is doing machine prints for people, they won't be happy if they are seeing crossover, because those negatives are much harder for them to scan and print. So the things that concern you, will most likely concern them.
I've known a couple of lab people like the one you are dealing with. If you get on his good side with an appropriate approach to geekiness, things may get better.
So I guess maybe I need to buy this shop a case of single malt Scotch.
Good point! I think they need something, though. Sometimes everyone in that store acts like they just got out of meeting where the owner announced there will be no raises this year and no Christmas bonus, either.Couldn't hurt... but ask first... he may be just as happy with a case of cheap beer.
negatives are not returned
Ask them if they use control strips and keep their process within specifications. If they say yes, that is a very good sign.
Are the negatives clean and sleeved when you get them back? If so, that is another very good sign.
If you have a standard C-41 film that you use within date, does the appearance of the negatives (mask colour, density of edge printing and highlights) seem consistent from roll to roll? If so, that is a good sign.
For more than that, you need to get much more technical.
Here is a good LFPF thread on the subject, complete with some familiar participants:@MattKing I am on my second year of getting back to analog photography, so I am far from being an expert, but I'm beginning to suspect that the distinction between color crossover and color shift is not a thing. I have never seen, not once, the use of color crossover anywhere but on APUG. It is never mentioned in the Fuji C41 technical bulletin, or in the troubleshooting section of Kodak's Z-131 or in any other publications.
According to everything I've learned, due to a gross exposure or development error your contrast across CYM layers won't match the datasheet, and you get color that's different from the spec. "Crossover" or "shift" that's just a jargon difference, not a technical one. Basically, it's the analog version of channel clipping.
Don't mind being wrong on this one, just sharing what I have learned.
When the contrast behavior of the three different colour emulsion components isn't matched, a change in light level at the film will result in different changes in each of those components.@MattKing yep, that's a great thread - I saw it earlier and that's what I was referring to above (mismatched channel gamma). This is covered in Z-131 (troubleshooting and reading control strips) and easy to understand just extrapolating from B&W development. But how do you get a color shift then? Intuitively a "shift" feels like a linear adjustment, i.e. one of the channels/film layers just becomes uniformly less/more sensitive. How's that even possible?
When the contrast behavior of the three different colour emulsion components isn't matched, a change in light level at the film will result in different changes in each of those components.
A shadow may shift to magenta, because the response of the blue and red components to the change is low, while the response of the green component to the change is high.
Then, when the light increases to high mid-tone, the response of the blue and red components may increase, while the response of the green component increases less, resulting in a shift to green in the high mid-tones.
And of course, with three different colour components, and three different, potentially non linear contrast responses, you can end up with different shifts for every light level recorded - a kaleidoscope of non dependable colour responses.
The entire purpose behind the design of both the process and the film is to make those three components respond consistently and in lock step to changes in illumination - in other words parallel curves that don't "cross over" each other.
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