Cinestill 50D 35mm
Thanks for your reply.Hi Jorge,
For this I'd recommend an ECN2 developer (which is what the film is made for). The film can be developed in C41 as well, but the results color-wise in my opinion are significantly better when the film is developed in ECN2.
For the C41 chemistry, it depends very strongly on what's available to you locally. We could recommend any number of things, but if I point you towards e.g. Fuji chemistry and all you can get is, let's say, Bellini, then what good does my suggestion do? So perhaps it would be more effective if you could post a list of the options we've got, and then the rest of us can share our thoughts on pros and cons of each option.
Thanks for your reply.
There is not one shop where I would be able to acquire chemistry; to date, all B&W chemistry has been ordered fromt he US, so it will be the same for color developing.
All i all, unfortunately, nothing available locally (Puerto Rico).
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply.
There is not one shop where I would be able to acquire chemistry; to date, all B&W chemistry has been ordered fromt he US, so it will be the same for color developing.
All i all, unfortunately, nothing available locally (Puerto Rico).
Thanks!
Yes, I understand. So that means in practice you have the same selection available to you as any online shopper in the US would, correct? In this case, the many opinions and options expressed in earlier recent threads on this forum would apply. I'd recommend to do some reading, see which products available to you from online US-based shops appeal to you and then come back if you have more specific questions about the options you've found.
If you're limited to powder, all you have available to you is what I'd consider second-rate kits. All quality C41 chemistry comes as liquid concentrates.
If you're limited to powder, all you have available to you is what I'd consider second-rate kits. All quality C41 chemistry comes as liquid concentrates.
I develop all the rolls as quickly as I can in two or three days to insure that there are no color shifts.
Not necessarily useless, but it's a blix-based kit. Ron Mowrey/PhotoEngineer was pretty adamant that blix will never be entirely effective in removing all silver from color film. It may still work well enough for your purposes.
You will have color shifts if you process several rolls in batches in the same liter of developer. Again, the results may still be good enough for your purposes. If you were to do a controlled test I'm sure you would be able to see a difference in color balance between rolls #1 and #16.
Not necessarily useless, but it's a blix-based kit. Ron Mowrey/PhotoEngineer was pretty adamant that blix will never be entirely effective in removing all silver from color film. It may still work well enough for your purposes.
You will have color shifts if you process several rolls in batches in the same liter of developer. Again, the results may still be good enough for your purposes. If you were to do a controlled test I'm sure you would be able to see a difference in color balance between rolls #1 and #16.
At Adorama, B&H, and Freestyle I’ve only been able to find two bath kits (Rollei, Cinestill, and Arista are all liquid two bath kits with blix).
I don't shop in the US, obviously but...
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/For-Color-Film/ci/595/N/4288586380
gives access to...
And also this:
You could find the required fixer somewhere as well, I bet, or otherwise just use B&W rapid fixer which in practice will work OK.
The Bellini kit should be great for your purpose.
Bellini kits are excellent, I have been using them for several years with consistently good result.
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