C-41 bleach E-6 bleach

Photo Engineer · Nov 27, 2011

Quinone and Persulfate bleaches can cause high dmin in both E6 and C41 unless washed out properly.

PE

polyglot · Nov 27, 2011

There are dozens of posts here on APUG for those willing to search them out.

PE

However PE, you must keep in mind that the search is pretty useless even for those who know what terms they're looking for. I'm trying to curate some of those posts so if there are some in particular that have good content, please PM me or something.

thanks...

Photo Engineer · Nov 27, 2011

Actually, google does a pretty good job of cataloging APUG and often when I search google, the subject turns up there. A search for Quinone bleach and also Rehal bleach turns up threads here on APUG and also on other forums.

And, the term "rehal" is correct. This type of process was used as a diagnostic at KRL to separate out Silver development from dye production in experimental coatings. It is useful for pushing speed and contrast in color materials.

And... No one will fix the search engine here unless we make some noise, so there is a method to my madness!

PE

DarkMagic · Nov 27, 2011

So PE, do you reccomend me ZSAS method (http://jpgmag.com/stories/1228) or just as you told me: Farmers Reducer bleach and good clearing/rinse bath?

Photo Engineer · Nov 27, 2011

I recommend doing what works for you in the context of what you want to do.

If you bleach with an Ammonium containing bleach and then develop afterwards, you run the risk of losing some of the imaging Silver Halide. This is the first provision I make.

My second warning is that if you use a Ferri, Persulfate or Quinone bleach, you must remove the oxidant before color development or run the risk of high stain.

PE

zsas · Nov 27, 2011

Thanks PE for explaining this technically!

PE is right, figure out what you want your work to look like, then formulate your chems. For me, I wanted the stain in my work and that is why I omitted the clear (ie Acetic Acid and Sodium Sulfite) and why my photo below looks as such (which I love):
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

DarkMagic · Nov 27, 2011

I want it as close to E6 as possible, but with its own twist in color and expression. In my process the bleach is the key problem. Kodak C41 bleach is, as PE says, too weak. I havent tried the RA4-bleach (not blix) and im now testing out what will be the best dillution of my SPUR version of Farmers reducer http://www.macodirect.de/spur-liquidfarmer-60342br500ml-500ml-p-2093.html

Photo Engineer · Nov 27, 2011

zsas said:
Thanks PE for explaining this technically!

PE is right, figure out what you want your work to look like, then formulate your chems. For me, I wanted the stain in my work and that is why I omitted the clear (ie Acetic Acid and Sodium Sulfite) and why my photo below looks as such (which I love):
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Your photo is excellent!

Best wishes.

PE

DarkMagic · Nov 28, 2011

Photo Engineer said:
RA4 bleach fix is even weaker than the other two! Don't use it for films of any sort.

You can use Farmer's reducer, but you must use a clearing bath between the color developer and bleach. I have explained that elsewhere here.

PE

Can i use Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) to make this clearing bath? If so, how many grams pr. litre of water?

Photo Engineer · Nov 28, 2011

Use about 5 - 20 g/l in a common 1% - 2% stop bath of acetic acid. This should be an effective clearing bath for all strong (Ferri, Persulfate or Quinone) bleaches. Do not use Dichromate - Sulfuric Acid bleach at all for this type of process.

Make sure you wash well after the bleach and after the clearing bath.

PE

DarkMagic · Nov 28, 2011

Will try this out now. I mixed 50ml + 450 ml of the part A of the Farmers Reducer to make the Bleach. By the way. Isnt Sodium Sulfite , the one i posted picture of, in real terms a Hypo Clearing Agent? Just liky Hypo Clearing from Kodak? I have uploaded a picture of the bottle i made bleach of.I used only the A part in 1+18 dillution.

Photo Engineer · Nov 28, 2011

Look at the ingredients in part B! It contains hypo! If you wish to remove the silver completely and have no further action then use it but if you need to retain the silver do not use this.

The ferri bleach I referred to is Potassium Ferricyanide + Potassium or Sodium Bromide. This bleaches. Then you fix in a separate step.

PE

DarkMagic · Nov 28, 2011

I used only Part A

C-41 bleach E-6 bleach

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