However PE, you must keep in mind that the search is pretty useless even for those who know what terms they're looking for. I'm trying to curate some of those posts so if there are some in particular that have good content, please PM me or something.
Actually, google does a pretty good job of cataloging APUG and often when I search google, the subject turns up there. A search for Quinone bleach and also Rehal bleach turns up threads here on APUG and also on other forums.
And, the term "rehal" is correct. This type of process was used as a diagnostic at KRL to separate out Silver development from dye production in experimental coatings. It is useful for pushing speed and contrast in color materials.
And... No one will fix the search engine here unless we make some noise, so there is a method to my madness!
I recommend doing what works for you in the context of what you want to do.
If you bleach with an Ammonium containing bleach and then develop afterwards, you run the risk of losing some of the imaging Silver Halide. This is the first provision I make.
My second warning is that if you use a Ferri, Persulfate or Quinone bleach, you must remove the oxidant before color development or run the risk of high stain.
PE is right, figure out what you want your work to look like, then formulate your chems. For me, I wanted the stain in my work and that is why I omitted the clear (ie Acetic Acid and Sodium Sulfite) and why my photo below looks as such (which I love):
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I want it as close to E6 as possible, but with its own twist in color and expression. In my process the bleach is the key problem. Kodak C41 bleach is, as PE says, too weak. I havent tried the RA4-bleach (not blix) and im now testing out what will be the best dillution of my SPUR version of Farmers reducer http://www.macodirect.de/spur-liquidfarmer-60342br500ml-500ml-p-2093.html
PE is right, figure out what you want your work to look like, then formulate your chems. For me, I wanted the stain in my work and that is why I omitted the clear (ie Acetic Acid and Sodium Sulfite) and why my photo below looks as such (which I love):
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Use about 5 - 20 g/l in a common 1% - 2% stop bath of acetic acid. This should be an effective clearing bath for all strong (Ferri, Persulfate or Quinone) bleaches. Do not use Dichromate - Sulfuric Acid bleach at all for this type of process.
Make sure you wash well after the bleach and after the clearing bath.
Will try this out now. I mixed 50ml + 450 ml of the part A of the Farmers Reducer to make the Bleach. By the way. Isnt Sodium Sulfite , the one i posted picture of, in real terms a Hypo Clearing Agent? Just liky Hypo Clearing from Kodak? I have uploaded a picture of the bottle i made bleach of.I used only the A part in 1+18 dillution.
Look at the ingredients in part B! It contains hypo! If you wish to remove the silver completely and have no further action then use it but if you need to retain the silver do not use this.
The ferri bleach I referred to is Potassium Ferricyanide + Potassium or Sodium Bromide. This bleaches. Then you fix in a separate step.