C-22 in Ilford ID-11; will it work?

Another one of those ever-returning questions, I assume, but I thought I'd better ask anyway. I recently came across an old 6x9 Franka folder in a second-hand shop and, although I passed on the folder (front standard out of alignment, connection between shutter release and lens broken), I extracted a roll of Kodacolor-X, about half shot, from it before it returned to the shelf. I know it's unfair that I took the film without buying the camera, but I was worried someone else would pop the back and ruin the roll (the guy who took it out for me to look at was definitely in favour of the brute-force approach when it came to collapsing the bellows again).

The question now is, how can I find what's on it (if anything)? I am aware of the various labs running C-22, but, given how long the process has been dead, they're all pretty expensive, and I'm not sure it's worth it for what might just be a blank roll. Could I develop it myself in ID-11? I've read that it's often recommended to dev old colour negs in B&W, as the colour dyes may have decayed. If I were to go this route, can anyone suggest times, temperatures and any chemicals other than dev, stop & fix that I might need (I don't really want to shell out for specialist chemicals to do just one roll)?

Thanks in advance.

I would suggest a way long development - maybe something on the order of 20 minutes. intemittent - say agitate 2 sec per 30 at 20C is how I would traet this.

The silver was never suppose to form an image, and now we want it to. if it is overdeveloped, fine. Underdeveloped - I would not want to try intenfiying a c-22 - if you do, pre harden it first.

I ahve old ferrania 50 or so asa pan b&w from the early 60's frozen for the last 30 years. It is now about ei 12, and takes 18 minutes in straight d-76/ID11 to give any sort of printable contrast.

I probably should have asked this in the body of the question, but I'm assuming I'd have to use developer stock solution? Could I get away with dilute developer or will the film be so fogged and slow by this point that I'd just end up with blank acetate?

I suggest Rodinal 1+100 for 1 hour semi-stand, it works for all my colour films so far @ 20c, that time/combo may work well for C-22 films as well.

Then I rinse, fix, rinse, bleach (colour beach), rinse, colour develop (C-41, E-6 CD, etc), rinse, stabiliser, bleach, rinse, fix, rinse, stabiliser to get a colour neg.

You can also over-expose the film, say 4 stops, and process Rodinal 1+100, for 30 min semi-stand, to get away from any fog present.


I dont know times for ID-11, I could only give guestimations.