Buying Nikon F3. Advice, please?

[mr.datsun]

Since getting rid of my AE1, I've only owned a Ricoh GR1s/v for many years. It's now a struggle as my ideas have recently moved towards closer, indoor scene work - often poorly lit. I now need the advantages of a simple good SLR.

I've never owned a Nikon, but the F3 really attracts me, not least because of the high-eyepoint finder and the waist level finder (DW-3) option, which I think I would use a lot. (I have an ETRS and so enjoy looking into waist level finders.)

My question is - is there anything I should be aware of when looking for an F3?

I will buy a reasonable quality 28mm lens and 45 or 50mm lens.

Thank-you.

 

[darkosaric]

I had 2 F3's (still have one, another has my fried, also works fine).
If they work - they will work. They are awesome.

 

[Timestep]

Also check the Nikon F2, I still swear by this camera.
Since you are considering interiors and closeups. The game in town is the Nikkor 28mm.F/2.8 AIS, which is a great lens and will focus to 9"

 

[horacekenneth]

Check out the Nikkor 28/2. Mine is really sharp and 2.0 is a nice speed indoors.

 

[ronnies]

If you are used to a Bronica ETRS waist level finder be prepared to be very disappointed in a 35mm one.

The only half decent waist level finder I've found for a 35mm SLR is the original style Exakta ones.

Ronnie

 

[Alex Muir]

I have two F3s. The thing I noticed when I first bought one is that the wind on lever feels a bit loose, compared to my FE. This is normal, and my second one is the same. There is a black button on the front for locking the meter reading. It sometimes comes loose and falls out. Lookout for that. It can be fixed, but better to find one without that problem. There should be a screw in rubber surround around the eyepiece. Quite often they are missing. The meter doesn't work until you get to the first frame on the counter. It should read 80 until you've wound and fired about two shots. The auto exposure doesn't work when the mirror is locked up. The WLF is actually quite usable and includes a flip up magnifier. Some people say that the auto exposure will accurately time exposures beyond the longest speed, and up to several minutes. In my experience, that is a myth. The shutter stays open for a while, but it is not consistent. I really like this camera, which is why I got another one. The points I mention are things that you should know before you buy, so that you can judge what's normal, and what could be a fault.
Alex

 

[Peter Simpson]

Love my F3. Just the right size, just the right weight. Make sure the lenses you buy are AI or later. You can use non-AI, just need to remember to flip up the lever, but all AI is easier, nothing to remember.

 

[wy2l]

Suggest you look at the Nikon FM3A.

 

[darkosaric]

Suggest you look at the Nikon FM3A.

FM3A has waist level finder?

 

[trythis]

Just make sure the battery compartment is not corroded or cracked.


Sent with typotalk

 

[removed-user-1]

I have and use an F3 regularly, it's one of my very favorite cameras.

I do a fair amount of bellows work, and the ability to take the prism off for waist-level viewing is helpful (I don't actually have the DW3 ... yet). None of the FM-series cameras have a removable prism, instead they require a screw-on accessory viewfinder for waist-level work.

Speaking of viewfinder accessories, the rubber eyepieces from the Nikon N8008 cameras fit the F3HP prism, and beater N8008 bodies often cost less as a whole camera than the eyepiece by itself does.

If you intend to use flash at any point, be prepared to deal with that proprietary flash mount; if you use a shoe-mounted flash, you have to remove the flash to rewind film manually, and to open the camera back. Or buy a funky little adapter Nikon made to move the flash shoe forward... The best solution, in my opinion, is off-camera flash with a PC cord.

Also, though the MD4 motor adds some weight, I find that the F3 handles nicely with the motor. MD4 motors are now quite affordable. The extra weight seems to make the camera more usable at slower shutter speeds; I've never tested this scientifically, it's just an observation. Also, if you have button-cell batteries in the F3, and have the motor attached and powered on, there's a sort of "stealth" mode which is sometimes useful indoors. Turn on the camera body power switch, trigger the camera with the top shutter release instead of the motor release, and hold the button down after the shutter fires; the motor will not advance the film until you lift your finger from the shutter button. Nifty.

EDIT: One more thing... there are two caps on the bottom of the camera body: one for the batteries, and one for the motor rewind shaft. Be certain that the camera has both of these caps. If you're buying a body with the motor attached, the motor drive cover may be inside the small slot, designed to hold it, in the motor drive battery tray. If the motor drive cover is missing, the camera can leak light and fog the film if the motor is not attached.

 

[Les Sarile]

As with any of these older cameras, buy from a reputable source with guarantees.

 

[Paul Howell]

I used both the F2 and F3 when I was working as a PJ in the 70s and 80s. The F3 is a fine camera, but for not much more money you can get a F4 or 5. Both have high flash sync, built in motor, multiple exposure modes and a much better meter. The F4 is often called the best manual focus body Nikon ever made, the F5 has the 3D meter. I believe that Nikon is still servicing the F5. Finding the waist level or critical view finders takes some doing and costs more than a waist level.

The advantage of the F3 over the F4 or 5 is weight, in most circumstances you don't need to carry the motor drive.

 

[ruby.monkey]

FM3A has waist level finder?

Only with a Dremel.

But the DR-3 angle finder works well, as long as one mounts a fast lens. None of this changes the fact that even the F3HP (never mind an F3 or F2) offers a much better finder than does the FM3A.

 

[Les Sarile]

Only with a Dremel.

But the DR-3 angle finder works well, as long as one mounts a fast lens. None of this changes the fact that even the F3HP (never mind an F3 or F2) offers a much better finder than does the FM3A.

The FM3A does have the K3 split prism screen that never blacks out regardless of how slow the lens is or when used with autobellows which I don't believe is available for the F3. This mitigates the use of the DR-3 which does cause quite a bit of darkening of the finder using any other screen.

 

[mr.datsun]

Suggest you look at the Nikon FM3A.

What in one or two words is the advantage, please? I find it hard to get my head around the Nikon models and numbering system.

Also check the Nikon F2, I still swear by this camera.
Since you are considering interiors and closeups. The game in town is the Nikkor 28mm.F/2.8 AIS, which is a great lens and will focus to 9"

F2. Not sure. Why might it be better?

Lens. This looks like the one, from what I had read. I've seen some of these lenses for as much as £6-700 and some for as little as £160. Are there differences in the same model?

Check out the Nikkor 28/2. Mine is really sharp and 2.0 is a nice speed indoors.

I will look, thank-you. It's going to be

If you are used to a Bronica ETRS waist level finder be prepared to be very disappointed in a 35mm one.

The only half decent waist level finder I've found for a 35mm SLR is the original style Exakta ones.

Ronnie

Ha ha. I sold my Exacta, on my father's instructions, after my first year at art school. I had no idea it was so good at that age. But I did like the removable finder. At least the F3 has one and I don't have to use it, if I'm unhappy with it. I'm not expecting it to be the same as a Bronica.

The points I mention are things that you should know before you buy, so that you can judge what's normal, and what could be a fault.
Alex

Thanks for your notes. I'll keep them in mind.



To all other replies, thank-you for all your positive comments and notes. I.e. what to look out for (corrosion, missing motor covers). And AI vs non AI lenses.

But what is the AI vs AIS lens?

One question that strikes me, not knowing or understanding the full gamut of Nikon models, is will the F3 model work purely mechanically, if needed?*

*I should add that I am happy using a hand meter (Weston) with reflective or incident light measurements, in the event of electronic failure.

 

[mr.datsun]

I used both the F2 and F3 when I was working as a PJ in the 70s and 80s. The F3 is a fine camera, but for not much more money you can get a F4 or 5. Both have high flash sync, built in motor, multiple exposure modes and a much better meter. The F4 is often called the best manual focus body Nikon ever made, the F5 has the 3D meter. I believe that Nikon is still servicing the F5. Finding the waist level or critical view finders takes some doing and costs more than a waist level.

The advantage of the F3 over the F4 or 5 is weight, in most circumstances you don't need to carry the motor drive.

Thanks for your insights. I have to say that i will unlikely ever bother with a motor or a flash. Also, I learnt cameras at a point where they were simple. I understood them. Simplicity of operation is important to me at this point. A little, but done very well.

'The F4 is often called the best manual focus body Nikon ever made'

I will consider that advice.

 

[Les Sarile]

One question that strikes me, not knowing or understanding the full gamut of Nikon models, is will the F3 model work purely mechanically, if needed?*

*I should add that I am happy using a hand meter (Weston) with reflective or incident light measurements, in the event of electronic failure.

Unlike the original F and F2, the F3 has an electronic shutter with only the T setting and sync speed available if electronics fail.

You can readd more about it -> MIR on F3

The F4, F5 and F6 are more electronic dependent. OTOH, the FM3A has aperture priority autoexposure like the F3 but has all shutter speeds available when electronics fail.

 

[mr.datsun]

Unlike the original F and F2, the F3 has an electronic shutter with only the T setting and sync speed available if electronics fail.

You can readd more about it -> MIR on F3

The F4, F5 and F6 are more electronic dependent. OTOH, the FM3A has aperture priority autoexposure like the F3 but has all shutter speeds available when electronics fail.

'You can readd more about it ->'

thank-you. looks to be a very thorough page.

The FM3A does have an advantage, then.

 

[Les Sarile]

The FM3A does have an advantage, then.

The FM3A has some advantages if those are important to you and you don't need the other viewfinders. You can read more about it -> Nikon FM3A
Otherwise, the F and F2 are fully manual - with no aperture priority autoexposure, but with interchangeable viewfinders.

Of course you might also consider the FM and FM2 as they are also fully manual with no aperture priority and no interchangeable viewfinders. You can read about these at the Nikon section -> [url]http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/[/URL]

If you're not adverse to a different lens mount, then you might also consider the Canon New F1 and Pentax LX as they both have aperture priority and most of their shutter speeds available when batteries or electronics fail.

You can read about these at the MIR website too.

 

[mr.datsun]

The FM3A has some advantages if those are important to you and you don't need the other viewfinders. You can read more about it -> Nikon FM3A
Otherwise, the F and F2 are fully manual - with no aperture priority autoexposure, but with interchangeable viewfinders.

Of course you might also consider the FM and FM2 as they are also fully manual with no aperture priority and no interchangeable viewfinders. You can read about these at the Nikon section -> http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/

At the moment, the more I read about the F3, the more I feel it is right for me. But I will invest some time in reading about the FM3A and perhaps check out the earlier Fs and FMs. Again thanks for the links. The mir.com.my site is very good.

 

[Les Sarile]

The mir.com.my site is very good.

Viewing that site is sorta like opening Pandora's box . . . but not in an evil way . . .

BTW, Ken is enamored by the FM3A if that holds any sway in your decision -> Ken Rockwell on FM3A

 

[monkowa]

EDIT: One more thing... there are two caps on the bottom of the camera body: one for the batteries, and one for the motor rewind shaft. Be certain that the camera has both of these caps. If you're buying a body with the motor attached, the motor drive cover may be inside the small slot, designed to hold it, in the motor drive battery tray. If the motor drive cover is missing, the camera can leak light and fog the film if the motor is not attached.

Yeah, my F3 came with the motor drive, it didn't have the cap with it. There have been no light leaks but I just covered it with some electrical tape. Seems to work.

 

[flavio81]

Since getting rid of my AE1, I've only owned a Ricoh GR1s/v for many years. It's now a struggle as my ideas have recently moved towards closer, indoor scene work - often poorly lit. I now need the advantages of a simple good SLR.

I've never owned a Nikon, but the F3 really attracts me.

If you enjoyed an AE-1, try the Canon New F-1. I sold my Nikon F3 without any regret, and used the $$ to partly fund a mint Canon New F-1, which I consider a superior camera to the F3.

That being said, regarding your question:

- Also consider the Nikon F2 and the F4. In particular the Nikon F2AS, which at the end i liked more than my old F3.

- There are other cameras with a viewfinder that is as good or better -- for example the viewfinder of the Canon F-1N was better.

- Problems to look for on the F3:

a. Button for AE lock falls down and gets lost.

b. Bottom caps get lost

c. Slow operating shutter mechanism (i.e. you press the shutter button but it does not immediately fire)

d. Meter does not operate (i.e. it stays always at "-" indication on the LCD display)

e. LCD display faded too much (it could happen, i have not heard about it)

f. FRE resistor broken -- this is meter failure, because the aperture of the lens would not be transmitted correctly to the camera body. Look for damage around the collar where the flash shoe is mounted. This is sort of a design flaw -- if the flash is knocked strongly, this would then knock the flash accesory mounting collar (around the top of the rewind knob), and below this is the FRE resistor disc. Which would get damage. There is info around this on the web.

g. Double exposure lever mechanism stuck or not operating correctly, due to wrong assembly or corrosion.

h. LED illuminator light does not work anymore -- happens in MANY cameras.

 

[fotch]

With the F3, you can change the finder to either a waste level or a reflex magnifier. You can do that also with the F2. I own both however, the F3 would be my first choice. Just like it better, more up to date.