Buying advice for Yashica mat-124G

[hoomuzzz]

I'm thinking of buying a Yashica mat-124G as a birthday gift for my friend. I searched for info on http://yashicatlr.com/index.html, but still need some feedback on using experience.
Here are some of my questions:
• Does it feel plastic?
• Is it portable enough to carry out often?
• Is it convenient to use?

Comment if you have had or used one.
Or if you recommend other models of TLRs, plz share your advice.

 

[Kino]

I'm thinking of buying a Yashica mat-124G as a birthday gift for my friend. I searched for info on http://yashicatlr.com/index.html, but still need some feedback on using experience.
Here are some of my questions:
• Does it feel plastic?
• Is it portable enough to carry out often?
• Is it convenient to use?

Comment if you have had or used one.
Or if you recommend other models of TLRs, plz share your advice.

• No, it does not feel plastic; feels like a well built camera, which it is.
• Depends on your definition of portable, which can vary wildly from person to person. I do not find it much of a problem to carry around, as long as you have a comfortable neck strap. You won't be unobtrusive; it's a hard camera to shoot with unnoticed until you get a good deal of experience using it. Bonus points; for some reason, people seem to find this type of camera less threatening, as you tend to shoot looking down and not straight at them (unless you are using the sports finder).
• Again, depends on your preference. The waist level viewfinder can be disorienting to use until you get used to the reversed left-to-right image. Many people (myself included) don't care for that aspect and only use the focus screen to focus, then pop open the sports finder and use that to compose and shoot.

If the last point bothers you, and you still want to use a TLR, remember that you'll have to find a model that will accept a prism that properly orients the image at eye level. This adds considerable bulk and weight to the camera.

TLRs are a good way to get into medium format inexpensively, but some people just don't care for the form factor or the viewing system and opt for a Medium Format SLR, which is typically more expensive.

I have one; I don't shoot with it as much as I should, but it always brings a smile to my face when I do use it and I typically get great results.

 

[DWThomas]

In 2010 I added a 124G to my "collection" which includes a 6x6 and a 6x9 folder plus a fairly extensive set of Bronica SQ-A gear. Since that time it has become my most used film camera. It was part of the gear I took on a 5800 mile cross-country wandering in 2016. And it also joined me for a few days in Switzerland and thence a river cruise on the Rhine from Basel to Amsterdam in 2019. It's not as handy to shoot as a 35mm SLR, but it's a reasonable weight and I do like those bigger negatives. I can fit it and a high end P&S digital (plus some film) in a Think Tank Turnstyle 10 sling bag for some excursions.

A number of shots in my gallery here on Photrio were made with the 124G. When I got it via ePrey it was in remarkably good cosmetic condition and basically operational except the built in light meter was intermittent due to something in the switch mechanism that turns it on when the hood is lifted. So I used it with a separate meter. After a few years use, I was out on a cold day and the shutter release button seemed to take a few seconds to pop back out after an exposure. By that time I was happy enough with it that I sent it to Mark Hama in Georgia (USA) and had a CLA, plus he fixed the meter circuit and supplied an adapter to replace the mercury cell battery. He also put a neat black filister head screw in the front plate that blocks the M-X flash sync switch from going into M, as using the self timer with the flash on M can hang up the shutter. (Having the screw means it could be easily restored to its original operation should I wish to use flash bulbs!)

As @Kino observes, a TLR seems to be considered benign when out in public. I've had a number of conversations with random strangers whilst out shooting with it. "Oh! My dad had one of those," etc. "How many megapixels is that?" (for which my answer is "42.")

 

[abruzzi]

It doesn’t feel heavy and solid that I get from some other cameras, but part of that is that TLRs don’t have the mechanical complexity of an SLR. I’ve never used any other TLR so I can’t compare, but the quality of mine seems very good.

Because it’s light it’s easy to carry lots of places, but that will be up to the recipient, and whether they don’t mind the size. Remember—the meter it tuned for mercury batteries, so you’ll probably want a voltage adapter to drop the 1.5v of a silver battery to 1.35v of a mercury.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have a 124G with working meter and a D, both are fine cameras, build quality is good, not Rolli good, but good. The taking lens is a 4 element and multicoated. It is very light when compared to a Mamiya C33 or 330 or 220. It fits nicely into a bag, I find a TLR easy to hand hold to 1/30 of a second. The 124 cockes the shutter when advnacing the film with the crank. You can find banyote filters on line, I have a SVI push on that I adapted to fit over the taking lens that allows for both a filter and hood to be used at the same time. My meter matches my gossen meter and when used in good light works ok. What I like about the D is that it easy to take a double exposure, I have the later model with the same taking lens as the 124. For about the same price as a 124, a bit heavier but with interchangeable lens I would considered a Mamiya 220.

 

[Dennis-B]

I've owned a couple, and they're far from feeling "plastic". I upgraded to a Mat 124-G from a 635. As others have mentioned, it's not unobtrusive. You can't take a picture without looking like you're taking a picture.

While the meter does work, I never used it for shooting. I always used a handheld Gossen Luna Pro, Luna Pro SBC, or a Pentax 1° Spot.

Mechanically, the Yashica TLR's are fairly sturdy for their ilk. They don't like to be speed film advanced, but a bump never harmed mine. I used mine for weddings until I went to Mamiya C330's, and then Mamiya 645's.

 

[Laurent]

I had a 124 (not G, same camera but different looks) for some time before I got my Rolleiflex.

No it doesn't feel plastic (I briefly had a 124G could not make the difference by feeling).
I find it very portable, I travelled extensively with it while on business trips and always found a way to put it in my luggage and use it when on destination.
Getting the camera to become non intrusive takes some time, but not that much IMO.

A feature I sometimes miss on my 'Flex is the integrated meter (I got the camera with a working mercury battery that lasted as long as I owned the camera) as it was precise enough for my usage, and was a default option when I did not have the handheld meter with me.

 

[dxqcanada]

I've tried a number of TLR's over the years (except the Rolleiflex) ... best one was the Mamiya C330, but I definitely do not give that one as a recommendation for your friend.
With many of these older cameras, the ones with the light meter are not so accurate anymore ... which is why many users have another light metering source.
Winding knob vs crank ... hmm, no opinion, both do the same job (ones with auto-stop). What I have found that the Yashica's with a crank can cause internal malformation/damage of a lever if an unknowning user forces the wind if the shutter is stuck.
The Yashinon lens is OK ... I found the Minolta Rokkor and Ricoh Rikenon lenses better in IQ.
Never buy a Minolta with a focus knob that is slightly bent upwards ... pot metal doesn't like it.
I currently only have Minolta Autocord TLR's. IF I were to get a TLR to replace it ... it would be a F&H Rolleiflex or a Ricoh Ricohmatic 225.

 

[250swb]

Good lenses but despite the heft they are astonishingly crude inside with lots of flimsy stamped out parts from thin metal. Which is not to say they need to be over engineered to work, but they aren't a Rollei or a Mamiya TLR. And while they can work forever it begs the question if one goes wrong a CLA and repair will probably cost more than just buying another with a newer warranty. Out of all the cameras in this mid-price TLR bracket the Rolleicord, Yashica, Mamiya C220/C33, and Minolta Autocord (and I have one of each) I'd go for the Minolta (if it has a smooth but not outright stiff focusing lever).

 

[Dali]

Or if you recommend other models of TLRs, plz share your advice.

Of course. Rolleicord comes to my mind. For a similar price between a MAT 124G and a 'Cord, I know which one I buy, it's a no-brainer.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I have owned most of the TLR cameras and have my own views as to which is better or worse. First, the Yashica 124/124G can do anything the much more expensive Roleiflex can do, but do it cheaper. Don't get me wrong, I love my Rolleiflex cameras, but I could get by just as well with a 124G, Minolta Autocord or Rolleicord. I think the Rolleicord or the Minolta Autocord slightly beat the Yashica 124G in only one department and that's portability. That's only a little at that. Of the three (Yashica, Minolta, Rolleicord) I prefer the Minolta Autocord. That said, I thing that buying a Rolleicord or 124G is the safer way to go. Why? That damn focus lever on the Autocord is an accident waiting to happen and if you mishandle it, it will happen. So, give your friend the Yashica 124 or 124G and if it's in good working order I'm sure they will be happy as a pig in a mud puddle.

 

[Paul Howell]

I forgot to include that another issue with the 124 is poor interior flocking, issues with flare. I bought a flocking kit I found on line, maybe 20 years ago, don't know if anyone still sells it.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I forgot to include that another issue with the 124 is poor interior flocking, issues with flare. I bought a flocking kit I found on line, maybe 20 years ago, don't know if anyone still sells it.

Paul,
I did the same thing with my 124G, but to be honest, I never really saw a real big issue on my 124G. I just bought a large sheet of self-adhesive flocking material made for telescopes and cut my own. I think the older Yashicamats had a slightly shinier internals if I remember right.

 

[davela]

It's not a bad camera, but I have found that the earlier Yashica Rolleiflex copies like the Yashica-Mat were built better. The Minolta Autocord, if you can find one in good condition, has a better taking lens IMO.

 

[reddesert]

All of these TLRs were good gateways to medium format in the day. At this point, I feel condition, and learning to use a manual camera with waist level finder, is more important than which model you get. A Yashicamat, Rolleicord, Autocord, etc with a good lens and shutter, clean focusing screen, and mirror with good coatings, beats any one of them that has haze in lens, sticky shutter, bad reflex mirror, or a hard fall that puts it out of alignment. (Of these issues, perhaps the easiest to fix is the bad mirror since replacements are available, but it requires testing the focus and I wouldn't recommend it for a novice.)

 

[Paul Howell]

Paul,
I did the same thing with my 124G, but to be honest, I never really saw a real big issue on my 124G. I just bought a large sheet of self-adhesive flocking material made for telescopes and cut my own. I think the older Yashicamats had a slightly shinier internals if I remember right.

My D is built on the same body as the 124, I did not buy the flocking kit. I recall someone posted that he taped the read element and painted the inside with military flat black paint with a brush he got from a hobby shop. I think I see a difference when shooting into the sun, agreed not that much of a difference.

 

[ic-racer]

I got my Yashica Mat 124G back in 1975. It is a great camera. Not many plastic parts. Any camera that old probably needs a tune up. The CDS built-in meter is probably the most important part as far as I'm concerned.

I have so many medium format cameras, I leave this Yashinon wide angle attachment on the 124G most of the time.

 

[campy51]

The Minolta Autocord probably has as good a lens as the high end Rolleiflex. It's sharp and contrasty.

 

[GRHazelton]

I own both the YashicaMat 124G and a Minolta Autocord. My Yashica has the CdS meter, but I'm unable to remove the cap on the cell compartment. Grrrrrrrrrr! Other than that the camera is satisfactory.

Of the two I prefer the Autocord. I like its handling better. My left hand supports the camera, focuses, and releases the shutter, my right hand winds the film and shutter. Film loading on both cameras is similar, although in theory, the Autocord should better assure film flatness, since film travels from the supply spool directly to the film gate, without passing over a roller which might perhaps deform the film before exposure.

A caution with the Autocord. The focus lever is said to be fragile; the Zemak alloy can break. If the lever seems stiff DO NOT FORCE IT, but have it serviced. Perhaps someone will manufacture a sturdy replacement, perhaps with a 3D printer?

 

[davela]

The Minolta Autocord probably has as good a lens as the high end Rolleiflex. It's sharp and contrasty. - campy51

Agreed. The Autocord is at least on par with the Rolleiflex 3.5 models I've owned and used (The 2.8 Rollei's however are special creations IMO). The Autocord, to me at least, also has a very nice ergonomic feel in use. It's really amazingly natural to use in fact - probably the finest Rolleiflex copy made. Of courses Autocord prices on the used market are also starting to reflect that fact lately it seems. A good one is still usually less expensive than most Rolleiflex 3.5's in similar condition.

 

[davela]

I own both the YashicaMat 124G and a Minolta Autocord. My Yashica has the CdS meter, but I'm unable to remove the cap on the cell compartment. Grrrrrrrrrr! Other than that the camera is satisfactory.

Of the two I prefer the Autocord. I like its handling better. My left hand supports the camera, focuses, and releases the shutter, my right hand winds the film and shutter. Film loading on both cameras is similar, although in theory, the Autocord should better assure film flatness, since film travels from the supply spool directly to the film gate, without passing over a roller which might perhaps deform the film before exposure.

A caution with the Autocord. The focus lever is said to be fragile; the Zemak alloy can break. If the lever seems stiff DO NOT FORCE IT, but have it serviced. Perhaps someone will manufacture a sturdy replacement, perhaps with a 3D printer?

There is at least one seller on eBay hawking machined metal replacements for the focusing lever. Sometimes the focus is still adjustable when then end of the lever has snapped off. That can be a way to get a bargain Autocord if one can live with that.