Bush Pressman Model D 4x5 - couple questions...

[M Carter]

So, that "your husband's a photographer? See if he wants this stuff?" thing that never ever happens to me...

Bush Pressman D; other than some dust and a missing strap, looks showroom new. RF needs calibrating, found instructions for that. I'm curious though - on these press cameras, what's the odd cylindrical thing above the lens, with a hook connecting to the shutter release, that seems to have old-school flash contacts on it? (See pic). The shutter already has a set of contacts - what's the purpose of the extra, umm, thingie?

And... anyone know where to get a replacement hand strap?

 

[Jim Jones]

That cylindrical thing is a solenoid that permits tripping the shutter electrically from a large flash gun. Old-time photographers from the early days of flash bulbs found using a solenoid more convenient than the release on the shutter. It could be triggered by other methods for remote operation of the shutter. It also provided flash synchronization for shutters which had no sync for flash bulbs.

 

[M Carter]

I gotcha - so the flash itself energizes the solenoid and trips the shutter. Thanks for the info.

I have a 4x5 monorail, but this is a really lovely piece of engineering, I'm a sucker for all that milled metal. Imagine I'll run a few sheets through it and see how it works - shutter seems solid, I'll do some research on the lens quality, sounds like it could take a Nikkor or many other lenses as well.

 

[Dennis-B]

Congrats on your Busch Pressman D. I used one for years as a primary studio and field camera. I had lenses ranging from 210mm, down to 90mm. Fortunately they had X and M sync shutters.

They're amazingly light, with their aluminum frames. I still regret selling mine.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Check out www.graflex.org and www.graflex.org/helpdesk for more information.

 

[outwest]

While pretty much limited to straight on I'm sure you'll find no reason to slight that lens.

 

[jim10219]

The replacement hand straps for the Graflex 4x5's are pretty common on eBay. But parts for the Pressman aren't nearly as easy to find. Personally, I'd just make my own, if I were you. You could probably do it out of a leather belt of the right width.

I bought my fiancé a Pressman C and needed several parts. I've been looking for years, and short of buying another one and dismantling it for parts (which makes little sense), I haven't be able to find much for it. So I've been reduced to fashioning my own parts out of what I can. I made my own handle out of scrap leather. I tore apart the original one (that had cracked) and used it as a template. Then I cut a new one out of scrap leather, glued it together with contact cement, and then sewed it with waxed upholstery thread. Looking back, I wish I spent more time lining up those thread holes. But it works and looks fine from a distance. That camera has a whole bunch of non-original parts, and on a close inspection you'll notice all kinds of things that look out of place. It's got several screws with the wrong heads and unmatching knobs. But it looks perfectly fine from 10 ft. away and functions flawlessly, and that's what really matters.

 

[M Carter]

Thanks guys - the shutter isn't firing dependably, and T and B don't work properly, but still, it's a cool camera and I could see using it. I think the owner was hoping I'd just make an offer, they go for $60-$150 on eBay (which seems very low for all that engineering), but we'll see. I could try a ghetto shutter flush or send it in to someone. Seems like paying for a shutter repair would be about the market value of the camera, maybe she'll say "just take it".

Hey, if anyone knows the answer - the rangefinder is way off (the infinity stops are correctly set, and ground glass with a loupe matches the focus guide on the rails). I've seen some web pages on calibrating it, but I noticed something - the arm that the focus rails push against to adjust the RF as you focus - it doesn't contact the rails until the focus reaches about 4 2/3 feet - just open space at 4'. I've read calibration articles that say the RF is accurate to 4' - should I assume that's the first calibration step - IE, should the RF arm contact the focus rail at 4'? I pulled the focus-light-bulb thing but not sure how the case opens up for adjustment. As you can imagine, the RF could use a good (gentle) cleaning.

Other than that, the ground glass is dirty but good, the bellows look like new, and the leather is overall very clean and well preserved. Getting some film in the thing just feels like the right thing to do...

 

[shutterfinger]

A Rapax is nearly the same as a Graphex. The Graphex is rotated 90° from a Rapax, internally they're the same. You have a "full sync" version. The 135mm uses the #2 shutter.
Download the service manual and have a go at it. http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GraphexShutterService.pdf
Its between a 4 and 6 on a scale of difficulty depending on your skill level. I have CLAed several and have never had to fully disassemble the flash delay assembly.

What rangefinder is on the camera Kalart or Hugo Meyer?

Take the ground glass out, wash it in warm water and dish detergent rubbing with your finger tips only, rinse thoroughly, then a mild PhotoFlo final rinse, stand on edge and let air dry or dry with a lint free towel.

Some have used a nylon dog collar or leash for a handle strap.

 

[M Carter]

Thanks for the link. It's a Kalart RF. Yep, I've washed GG's before, this one doesn't seem to have a fresnel. Slight crack but looks like it will hold up out of the mount.

 

[shutterfinger]

Yep, I've washed GG's before, this one doesn't seem to have a fresnel. Slight crack but looks like it will hold up out of the mount.

Then you know to handle it extra careful.

Now for the version of Kalart you have.
Start at the Kalart pages https://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/index.html and take mr. lommen instructions with a Grain of Salt.
The actuator arm has likely come loose and needs to be reset. I would remove it, remove the rangefinder from the body, disassemble the rangefinder, clean, lube, and reassemble it. The beamsplitter silvering goes bad giving a weak image and frequently rubs off with a dry cotton swab or window cleaner. If that's the case the beamsplitter has to be replaced. A 50/50 beamsplitter was used. http://www.graflex.org/articles/romney/rangefinder-mirrors.html tells all you need to know to replace it. I have some I purchased off ebay, I can sell you a piece if needed, use the pm function.
Download this copy of the Kalart manual. It covers the model used on press cameras from the 1940's through mid 1950's.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sPJkp-Mdghc0FwQkRuWEhFZEE/view?usp=sharing

It underwent production changes without a model change but all work and adjust the same. Beamsplitter mount changed, adjustment location changed.

Now in its present condition with the bed open, bellows fully retracted into the body, actuator engaged with the rail eccentric, loosen the 3/16 hex nut on the actuator arm at the rangefinder shaft. Some shafts have flats, others do not. Keeping the arm in contact with the eccentric turn the shaft inward as far as it will go then tighten the set screw/hex head nut. Pull the front standard out to the infinity stops then check GG and RF infinity. If RF infinity is not correct adjust the eccentric for correct RF infinity. Check other distances for coincidence.
A dirty or dry lubricant RF is slow to operate and a PITA to adjust. A smooth operating RF is a breeze.

 

[M Carter]

nd take mr. lommen instructions with a Grain of Salt.

Yeah, I saw that thing with rubber bands and strings... anyway, the arm is attached to the RF, and fiddling it back and forth moves the 2nd image up and down as it should - just seems to be too far back, and I note the kalart PDF says "focusing to 3 feet" (though the manual doesn't cover the Busch).

But looking closer, I noticed there's a metal clip in the bottom of the bed, which keeps the arm from swinging any more forward than it does now; so it seems the arm is not actually able to begin moving the RF mirror until the focus has moved back closer to 5'; it's physically prevented from touching the focus bed at 4', adjusting the arm won't let it move forward any further. The clip that stops the arm is in a permanent slot.

The focus guide on the rails is accurate (via groundglass) at 4' and at infinity, though I'll check it again when this damn rain stops and I can get outside; I'll get out a good focusing light to verify the 4' focus, but seems good.

I think the internals are fine - the arm moves freely and the image seems more like 35mm rangefinders I've cleaned in the past - could use a little more contrast, but really not terribly bad and quite usable as-is. But it might as well be cleaned when opened.

 

[shutterfinger]

Yeah, I saw that thing with rubber bands and strings... anyway, the arm is attached to the RF, and fiddling it back and forth moves the 2nd image up and down as it should - just seems to be too far back, and I note the kalart PDF says "focusing to 3 feet" (though the manual doesn't cover the Busch).

Sure its attached, but has it slipped??? Camera brand does not matter, Graflex was the major user of Kalart Rangefinders.

Cam A is pressed onto the shaft that the actuating arm attaches to. Mr. L states that the distance between the flat edge of A and the case should be 9mm but I've found it to vary with RF, usually 9.25mm to 9.5mm to be more accurate.

The internal side.

But looking closer, I noticed there's a metal clip in the bottom of the bed, which keeps the arm from swinging any more forward than it does now; so it seems the arm is not actually able to begin moving the RF mirror until the focus has moved back closer to 5'; it's physically prevented from touching the focus bed at 4', adjusting the arm won't let it move forward any further. The clip that stops the arm is in a permanent slot.

With the rails out does the actuator arm move reward freely or is it fixed to the bed? Fixed to the bed - the arm is out of position. The piece on the rails should limit the arm moving forward with the rails until its forward movement limit is reached.
Set the rails so that the RF indicates infinity. Move the front standard and infinity stops until the lens in sharp on the infinity target. Could be that someone changed the lens and did not reset the RF.
Bed is the fixed part of the camera that folds down, the rails are what the lens standard (called front standard) moves and the focus knob moves.
The beamsplitter is fixed position, left (top) side in picture, the moveable mirror was a prism early on then changed to a front surface mirror (bottom) right side in the picture.

 

[M Carter]

Here's a photo - this is with the focus rail set to 4', the front standard is pushed inside the casing for clarity.

A is the pivoting arm to the RF; B shows the meta clip - there's a milled part of the arm that hits that and prevents the arm from swinging forward any more.

C is the gap (when at 4') between the RF arm and the rail piece on the bed that pushes against the RF arm. The RF arm is fully forward. As the rail racks back towards 5', the rail piece finally hits the RF arm and will push it backwards the further you focus. It doesn't seem to be an issue with the position of the RF arm - the clip on the bed (B) prevents it from contacting the rail at 4'. Seems designed that way. There's no mention of the Pressman in the RF docs, so not sure if the RF can only be used from 5' to infinity on this camera (it's not a Graflex).

Just to be clear, even if the arm has slipped or is adjusted incorrectly, it can't go any further forward.

 

[shutterfinger]

Instruction manual: https://www.central-manuals.com/instructions_manual_user_guide_camera/busch.php
2x3 (C) uses a side RF, 4x5 (D) does not mention it. go figure.
The limiter on the body looks factory.
Graflex set infinity with the rails fully retracted from 1912 through 1946 (Speed Graphic) then from 1947 through 1973 (Crown, Speed, Super Graphic) the rails were moved forward from fully retracted .040± .010 inch so one could focus past infinity if desired.
The Pressman should setup similarly.
5 feet to 6 feet sounds about normal for a 135mm close focus distance before needing to compensate for bellows draw, a 90mm close distance is about 3 feet.

Busch Pressman were also marketed by Sears as Tower Press.

 

[TylerEFF]

Hi everyone,

I also have a Busch Pressman D, and the dovetail piece that holds the whole lens and articulation frame is very loose within the metal arm on the focus rail that holds it (same as pictured in B above), and so the the whole lens moves back and forth with the slightest touch. Obviously not good, still operates fine with a shutter release, but still is subject to any vibrations, movements of the while rig. I'm trying to find how the dovetail piece (which slides back and forth for focus shifting) is held in to the metal arm on the rail to see if I can tighten it.

Any insight would be appreciated!

 

[Dennis-B]

Is the front standard completely fitted into the two dovetails in the camera body? You can move the focusing rail forward, squeeze the two tabs and slide the standard out until it clears the dovetails in the body. Then maneuver the front standard into the dovetail; it should slide all the way into body and be rigidly in place when the lens standard releases are relaxed. Then move the focusing rail all the way back until it touches the rail stop on the body cover/bed. When extending the lens standard, insure it engages the focus rail dovetails. The entire assembly should be rigid.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I owned and used a Sears Tower Press camera for years. It is exactly the same as the Mod. D we're talking about. The biggest drawback in comparison to a Graphic press camera is the lens boards. They are harder to find and to small to allow larger lenses to be used. They also had no Graflok style back. You can modify the ground glass spring brackets to take Singer style roll-backs. I just used a Calumet 6x7 slide-in roll film adapter and it worked great. I liked the camera very much, but ended up buying a Toyo field camera and don't miss the Mod. D. One note! I thought I would miss the rangefinder, but found that not to be the case for my style shooting. JW

 

[Dennis-B]

I owned and used a Sears Tower Press camera for years. It is exactly the same as the Mod. D we're talking about. The biggest drawback in comparison to a Graphic press camera is the lens boards. They are harder to find and to small to allow larger lenses to be used. They also had no Graflok style back. You can modify the ground glass spring brackets to take Singer style roll-backs. I just used a Calumet 6x7 slide-in roll film adapter and it worked great. I liked the camera very much, but ended up buying a Toyo field camera and don't miss the Mod. D. One note! I thought I would miss the rangefinder, but found that not to be the case for my style shooting. JW

Like you, I own a Sears Tower version, and I used the Busch Model D for years in the studio, and afield. I used a 8.5" f/6.3 Commercial Ektar for close portraits and a 100mm f/63 Wide Field Ektar for full length, but I used a Calumet 6x7 roll film back. I used chartpak tape to outline the 6x7 format. The Busch lens boards are a bit small, but I found several from a gentleman in Kansas who makes them, and I can drill them whenever the need arises. The only lens I have for it now is a Schneider-Kreuznach 150/265 convertible, and mostly with little movement. If I need more movement, I have a Meridian 4x5, Super Graphic, Linhof Technika IIII, and my Cambo C2N. I have another Calumet 6x7 back and a Graphic 23 back.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Dennis,
My standard rangefinder coupled lens was a Schneider Symmar-S 135mm f5.6 along with a 100mm f6.3 Wide-field Ektar and a Fujinon-L 210mm . After I got the Toyo Field camera and sold the Sears Tower I thought I needed a rangefinder 4X5 and bought a Graflex Super Speed, but I have never really used it at all. The Super Speed does have movements the Tower didn't have and it's also built like a tank. JW