I do Hear/Read this a lot...and, at this point, i really do not know what the monetary savings might be. I am not sure what the tipping point (in savings) would be for me.Decades ago I shoot bulk Ektachrome film, but stopped because it was not cost effective for me. I do not think that it is any better now.
I do this just to make sure sometimes but I've never had that happen to me. I have had metal caps pop off though so I guess I'm the opposite of folks here.Caps from plastic cassettes twisting off can be prevented by a narrow strip of adhesive tape attached to that protruding part of them.
just make sure you tape the end well onto the spool
it is a real drag when you wind it into the camera and can't
remove the film unless yougo someplace dark, and then
you need to wind it back into the cassette.
have fun !
This is what I do. It only has to touch the film for a tiny bit and grabbing on both sides is more secure than a one-sided grip. That last bit of film doesn't get exposed anyway.Wrap the tape from one side of the film, around the spool, and fasten to the other side of the film.
Yes to one and yes to two. Are there better, I think so.
As Matt suggests there are bulk loaders that don't use a felt light trap, that, over time, may pick up dust and other particles that may scratch film.
I myself have 4 bulk loaders, all are either the Kaiser from Germany or in the case of of one of mine, a Japanese copy of the Kaiser.
The Kaiser unit opens a trap door after you have closed the outer lid over your film cassette. The trap door opens when you insert the winder handle. I have been using mine Kaiser (and others) for close to 40 years now. Before that I used one similar to the Watson unit you have.
They are an excellent way of conducting your hobby and the possibility of loading say 12 frames for a test shoot and development of the film, is certainly one of the features I have exercised over the past 5 decades.
For every 30 metres you will get 18 full 36 exposure rolls and approximately 1 short roll of somewhere between 10 frames up to about 19 frames; dependent mostly on how long your leader is for your particular camera.
By that I mean my Nikon F3 camera body is a very wide body, it requires almost another full frame length of film to get across the camera back and be caught by the winding mechanism. Whereas an Olympus OM camera body, which are very small in all ways compared to the Nikon F3 body, need the shortest wastage of film to go from one side of the camera body to the winding mechanism. One friend who runs an Olympus OM1 body is able to get 19 rolls of 36 frames by being careful out of a standard 30M roll of film, something I can never do with my wide body camera.
Mick.
Wrap the tape from one side of the film, around the spool, and fasten to the other side of the film.
I think it is better not to tape the ends since the tape could get caught in the film wind mechanism. Better to avoid plastic and cheap metal cassettes entirely. Trying to save a few pennies could result in a costly camera repair.
- Never had a problem with this.
- Never heard of anyone having this problem when I worked in camera stores.
- Never heard of anyone having this problem on the internet.
- Film manufactures use tape and tape both sides of the film.
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