Building the bellows is a daunting task for the DIY large fomat camera maker. So, I’m giving you my technique, and the path to making your own bellows, using simple materials and tools. First, what youlll need. Table Saw, carpenters framing square, arrow staple gun, drill, razor knife. Materials : black rip stop nylon fabric, 100% cotton black fabric, black construction paper, chipboard (“pad backing, Uline) Elmer’s glue, Weldwood original contact cement, 5/16 staples, Wood for making bellows frames (white pine). Quantity of plywood ( or particle board) to build framing box. •••••••••OK••••••. Let’s Begin!!! Figure out how big your end frames need to be, and if you’re building square, or rectangular. For ease I’m just writing on square, common sense will let you understand any changes needed for rectangular. ••••• our example will be for 12” square, a common size. Step #1. Build hollow framing box 12x12x24. You build the bellows around this box. Cheap Wood is fine here... #2. Wrap box with thin plastic, a garbage bag is fine. Secure ends temporarily with staples This stops glue leaking through the cotton. .#3 wrap box with black cotton cloth, leave about 4” over the ends, a 1” overlap seam Elmer’s glue to dry. Secure ends temporarily with staples The cotton cloth is then covered with black construction paper, using a thin coating of elmers. This paper is the light proofing . Let this dry. #4. Making the cardboard strips. I use chipboard from Uline. They need to be cut “long grain”. I cut this in short stacks on the table saw,12” by about 1 1/4”. The ends Must be cut at 40 degrees...Not 45. You’ll need about 70 or so. #5. Gluing the strips. Start at one end with the wide end of the strip at the starting point. I use a piece of 1/4” (actually .236) plexiglass about 2” x 12” as a “tool” to set strip separation. coat with Elmer’s, adhere and check with framing square. Make Very Sure you start straight! Apply, set next using Tool to space.....keep going as far as you need, probably 16-18 on the side. Check with the framing square as you go. When that side is done, flip it over and repeat. The sides are easy, as you don’t need the tool to space, just match the other strips at the ends. After the 4 sides are all glued, apply a weighted cover and let dry. Best to flip the sides about a half hour on, so both sides get to dry weighted down. Let dry overnight. ••••#6. It helps to “score” where the folds will be between the strips. I have a tool, imagine a short handle with a thin rotating round washer on the end, run along a straightedge to make a gentle groove. #7. Gluing the covering. Cut your nylon just like the cotton line, with overlaps. Apply Weldwood Original formula contact cement Very liberally on the box with strips (stand it on end) Spread Out nylon on large clean flat surface and cover liberally with contact cement, I use a sponge to wipe it around. Be Very Careful from here on out letting any Dry contact cemented area from touching another!!! Wrinkles can Only be avoided by utmost care and still air, Let these parts dry to the touch. #8. The Big Scary Moment is wrapping the bellows. Once contact is Dry, it can sit on a smooth clean surface. Set the box horizontal at eye height. Hold the nylon at the upper ends. Carefully stretch it taut and apply it straight on the 1/2 way up on the side. Make sure the bottom of the nylon is off the floor and not in danger of sticking to itself (very bad). Carefully smooth down the nylon with your hand help the material stay smooth and No Wrinkles. Seat fully with the heel of your hand and use your thumbnail to work the nylon down along the edges of the strips. Pressure is good here. Rotate the box and using the same care and gentle smoothing start from the top center, then along the top, moving down some holding of the rest of the nylon helps avoid wrinkles. Do all four sides, trim off the excess nylon and contact cement this for a 1” overlap bottom seam. #8. Now, the bellows can be formed, as it is pulled off the box. The first plastic wrap probably will stay on the box. Pull the staples holding theblack cotton free from both ends of the framing box. It helps to run a long metal ruler down between the box and the inside Cloth, twistit it some, the idea is to stretch out the covering a bit to make it slide off the box easier. Sometimes this can be difficult. as you pull it off, fold the first strips on the top and bottom inward, pull some more, fold the first side is.. and continue this all the way as you pull, and make the folds, at the same time. It helps to establish the crispness of the folds by pressure from a metal ruler along the fold line #9. After the bellows is formed and removed, tightly compress and extend to establish the folds. #10. The frames are made from pine 12”x3/4”x1/2” Make a step lap, build these in the framing square, Elmers glue, a few brads on the corners. Sand somewhat to round the corners a bit. Drill 4 mounting holes midpoint on the frames. Paint flat black (I like Krylon) let dry. #10. When dry place inside bellows to where strips begin, fold over back of frames and attach with staple gun. Cut corners about 40 degrees so nylon doesn’t overlap. Trim excess with straightedge and razor knife. #11. Stretch and compress the bellows, if done right it will sit like a square box level and true. Final thing is to stretch it out and give the inside a spray with the flat black krylon. •••••••••••So I Hope these very tried and proven techniques I’ve shared will make you bellows less daunting!!
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