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Building a darkroom

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jonasfj

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Dec 14, 2013
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35mm
Hi,

I have decided to build myself a darkroom. I have a rather good dark space with running (cold) water and electricity. I plan to print b/w from 35mm and 6x6 negatives, but I want some flexibility. My budget is 1000 euro (excluding consumables).

This is my shopping list (in constant evolution):

[TABLE="width: 500"]

Durst enlarger 805M (complete)
500


Safelight bulb
14


Paterson grain focuser
30


Stainless steel print tongs (5x)
27


Paterson darkroom trays 24x30 (4x)
16


Paterson darkroom trays 30x40 (4x)
30


Ilford multi-grade filter set
99


Kaiser enlarger timer
125


Roller squeeze
50






Total
891

[/TABLE]

I still miss a masking easel!?. Fotoimpex want 200 euro for a 24x30. I am sure it is very good quality, but I want to pay less and I need 30x40.

I do have a pretty good paper cutter, I plan to dry the copies using a washing line and clips and to heat water with an electrical water boiler.


[TABLE="width: 500"]

Ilford multigrade classic 24x30 (50x)
92


Ilford multigrade classic 30x40 (50x)
150


Ilford multigrade paper developer
17


Ilford rapid fixer
14






Total
273

[/TABLE]

I already have measuring cylinders and storage containers.

Please share your thought. What am I missing. Any better suggestions?

Best regards,

Jonas
 
some stop bath and maybe a better grain focuser
are those measurements cm or inches? if inches, some smaller trays for when you want to do an 8x10 and don't want to mix up a great amount of dev/stop/fix
 
Looks like dimensions are in cm?


You only actually _need_ two pairs of tongs for normal developing. Developer, drop into stop, then the other pair for stop, to fix, to wash. Nice to have a spare set, or a set to use when toning, but it is not critical.

I'd look for a proper safelight, not a coloured bulb type. You don't indicate the size of the space, so you might need two.
 
some stop bath and maybe a better grain focuser
are those measurements cm or inches? if inches, some smaller trays for when you want to do an 8x10 and don't want to mix up a great amount of dev/stop/fix

The measurements are in cm. I'll take your advice on smaller trays. It's relatively little money and, as you point out, actually might save some.

Could you advice me on a grain focused?

Thanks,

Jonas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks like dimensions are in cm?


You only actually _need_ two pairs of tongs for normal developing. Developer, drop into stop, then the other pair for stop, to fix, to wash. Nice to have a spare set, or a set to use when toning, but it is not critical.

I'd look for a proper safelight, not a coloured bulb type. You don't indicate the size of the space, so you might need two.

I read somewhere that the rubber tops break off, so I thought I should get some spare.

You're right, I will get proper safelights.

Thanks,

Jonas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Get yourself a copy of "The Darkroom Handbook" by Dennis Curtin & Joe DeMaio. It is by far the best text for designing and building a darkroom there ever was. Also try to find the official Kodak book on building a home darkroom. I have it but can't find it right now to give you the specifics, but it is a great step-by-step guide to building a darkroom. Ken Nadvornick says his darkroom is an exact copy of the one in that book. I'm an old fart and these 2 books are the guides that I will use when I build my retirement darkroom.
 
You're going to need some smaller trays for smaller prints. Those huge trays you have will need lots of chemicals that will not be needed for the smaller sizes. Wastes a lot of chemicals.

Whoops, I see that Nige already covered this.
 
What am I missing. Any better suggestions?

Print washer - This can be something as simple as a tray syphon (OK for single sheets), or more complex and expensive such as the Nova print washers. The Paterson Auto print washers are quite good, but the 16x12 (30x40) model won't hold paper 16" (40cm) wide. I have to trim 15-20mm off the length to get it to fit mine.

As for tongs - I much prefer using vinyl gloves, especially with larger sheets of paper. Slip a single fresh glove on one hand, slide the paper in to the developer, the same hand then moves the paper on to the stop, fix, HCA, then holding tray. Once that sheet is processed, the glove comes off and is thrown in the bin.
 
Many of the items you need can be found for next to nothing if you look around carefully. People sell complete darkroom set-ups for low prices it's worth keeping an look-out on Ebay.

If the enlarger has the colour head you don't need Multigrade filters, you can definite find timers for much less.

I'm not familiar with the Durst M805 but assume you want to be able to print 6x7 or 6x9 negatives, inside your budget you can often find De Vere 203's with a colour head. I'd concentrate on finding an enlarger first as there's fewer MF enlargers in Europe capable of handling larger than 6x6.

Then look for job lots of darkroom stuff you should find everything you need.

Ian
 
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If the enlarger has the colour head you don't need Multigrade filters, you can definite find timers for much less.

Ian

That is very useful information! Thanks!

I actually settled for a Durst 605M for considerably less than my budget. You are right, max is 6x6, which suits me fine since I shoot MF with a Hasselblad.

BR,

Jonas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The M605 is an excellent enlarger so that;s a good choice (I have one).

Looking on ebay there's usually quite a few job lots of Darkroom equipment and you might be able to get everything else you need from one source.

Ian
 
I've used homemade, Greylab, and Heathkit timers, but can do about as well with no timer at all. A quartz clock that ticks once a second is good enough, and even better when dodging and burning. A bargain second-hand enlarger leaves money for more important purchases like paper and chemicals. A new enlarger would be more convenient for contrast control than my 60-year-old DeJur, but the DeJur has its advantages over most new products. Quality design and construction can be more important than new conveniences. A newer Nikkor enlarging lens is little better than its original lens.
 
Enlarger should be available for less money unless your in a remote or lightly populated area.
 
Keep an eye on Marktplaats, local used-goods stores (kringloop) and other local media. Since you're fairly close to Germany, check the german Ebay and photo sites/fora as well. With a little luck you can get a whole setup for a small price. That's how I got my darkroom.

Succes!
Menno
 
Hi, I have decided to build myself a darkroom. I have a rather good dark space with running (cold) water and electricity. I plan to print b/w from 35mm and 6x6 negatives, but I want some flexibility. My budget is 1000 euro (excluding consumables).

I would suggest you split the cold water feed and install a small shower type immersion heater. Temperatures in photographic processing are very important.
 
Has anyone used a microwave to warm up water for developing?

I have hot and cold running water, just curious for those who have just a cold water supply.
 
I just have an electric kettle in the darkroom it's all that;s needed. I'd suggest that a dishwarmer is needed though, I couldn't be without one.

Ian
 
I just have an electric kettle in the darkroom it's all that;s needed. I'd suggest that a dishwarmer is needed though, I couldn't be without one.

Ian

I have never used a dish warmer, as I would suggest that as long as the temperature isn't too low, this may be compensated by time.
 
Enlarger should be available for less money unless your in a remote or lightly populated area.

Keep an eye on Marktplaats, local used-goods stores (kringloop) and other local media. Since you're fairly close to Germany, check the german Ebay and photo sites/fora as well. With a little luck you can get a whole setup for a small price. That's how I got my darkroom.

Succes!
Menno

I actually settled for a Durst 605M for considerably less than my budget of 500. It comes with two lenses, 50mm and 75mm and two negative holders for 35mm and 6x6 (with glass). There is also a masking easel of good quality.
 
I have never used a dish warmer, as I would suggest that as long as the temperature isn't too low, this may be compensated by time.

For consistency a dish warmer makes a big difference, it doesn't take too much of a drop in temperature to affect development and extending development to compensate with many developers doesn't produce the same results. Often lower temperature affects one of the developing agents more than the other and you've changed the dynamics of the developer itself, usually losing some highlight details nad affecting the overall tonal range.

Ian
 
I actually settled for a Durst 605M for considerably less than my budget of 500. It comes with two lenses, 50mm and 75mm and two negative holders for 35mm and 6x6 (with glass). There is also a masking easel of good quality.
Great. The M805 is a good enlarger but it isn`t essential to enlarge 6x6 negatives. Too much money, there are many other perfectly good enlargers for a fraction of the cost.

My advice is always to start with a reasonable minimum amount of gear, and gradually get what you learn it`s needed for your specific task.

So, I`d start with a set of trays, 8x10" (20x25 centimeters). After that, you`ll know if you prefer 11x14", 16x20" or whatever. One note; I like to have at least FIVE trays (dev, stop, fixer 1, water, fixer 2... you can use them too for washing aid, toning, to hold finished prints, etc., etc...).

Two tweezers are enough, one to take the print from the dev to the stop, another for the rest.

Cheap Paterson grain focusers are perfectly right, you don`t need a fancy expensive enlarging loupe since the first day. After 30+ years I still use them.

Have you mentioned a thermometer? Essential for film developing, good for prints if the darkroom temperatures go too high or low. A tray warmer isn`t a must unless temperature get too low.

Two safelights, bulbs are right. Filtered safelights are better, you can change the bulb output if needed, more durable. After a few printing sessions you`ll know if you need more.

For serious printing on fiber based papers a print washer is essential. Archival quality prints have to be properly washed, a dedicated tool will save loads of time (and water!) and will assure the process. You can homemade one (they are expensive!).
Resin coated papers are much easier/faster to wash; as a starter you can skip the washer and print mostly on RC papers.

Durst "analog" timers (Labotim and alike) are dirty cheap secondhand and work. You can use them for factorial timing with a printed wheel over them.

Check if you need any blackout tape or fabric (door, window, enlarger`s head).

Very important; if you plan to have a permanent darkroom, think on hygienic procedures. Plan an air inlet, buy a exhaust fan, don`t leave it for tomorrow, think about it. Darkroom chemicals are harmful, you actually don`t need to smoke their fumes.
Buy gloves right now (nitriles are best) and don`t even touch a bottle without them on; get used to them since the first day. Use a face mask when working with powders.
 
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