Hi I had a similar problem and it was caused by the insert part of the back, I replaced the faulty insert and all was good,
Do you have a spare back or insert you can try?can you borrow one?
If not it is the cheapest option is buy another back:- backs cost less than a body and it is nice to have spare, if this does not fix it then you know the body is faulty.
Hope this helps
Johnkpap.
I use my ETRSi quite frequently , its an enjoyable camera and the lens are superb. I've never had this problem . I checked my backs and the multiple exposure pin is loose , on my backs. The multiple exposure pin in the camera is loose when the multiple exposure lever is set for multiple exposures and the film winding gears also move into the camera body- away from the film winding gear in the film back. When the multiple exposure lever is moved to the red dot(off) the multiple exposure pin in the body moves flush with the camera body and is solid -- the winding gear also moves back in position to engage with the film back gear to advance the film.
This is how my backs and camera are. Hope I have explained it clearly .
I am talking about the pin being loose on the back , not the cylinder which the pin is in .The pin slides back and forth loosely inside the cylinder. If your cylinder and pin is loose , I'd venture to guess your back needs work.
... Those little beasties contain a remarkable amount of complexity with the various interlocks, etc. ...
I have an ETRSi with three different backs; those backs are interchangeable.
From camera-wiki :
ETR series - backs and inserts
The roll film backs and inserts have small changes in material construction through the life of the system but are all interchangeable and compatible with one another. All the backs have a film reminder tab holder, insert release latch and a darkslide system. The first versions have a single top release latch with a leatherette patch. Later versions are similar but the leather changed to an arrow marking. The final version has the locking dark slides and dual release latches with triangular arrow markings.
The inserts all have a automatic resetting exposure counter with a winder. The original winders feature a large half-circular flip up crank while other versions have smaller cranks, and one version does not have a crank at all, but a more basic winding knob.
I vaguely recall a thread a few years back where one of the Bronica models -- not sure if it was ETRxx or SQ-x -- was giving a guy fits and it turned out the little multi-exposure lever was cracked and, in his case, not turning the shaft at all. That meant if it was in multi-exposure, it stayed there even when he thought he moved it. May not have anything to do with the OP's problem but does suggest a close inspection of some of the visible controls. Those little beasties contain a remarkable amount of complexity with the various interlocks, etc.
I do like my SQ-A for "really serious" work but find myself picking up my Yashica TLR for its simplicity in more casual walk-abouts.
This is a fact. The Bronica folks went from a metal lever to a plastic lever when moving from ETRS to ETRSi, same is true with the SQ series. I had to buy a junk body to get a multi-exposure lever for my SQ-AI . It's easy to get this mispositioned. I have had a lot of Bronica stuff over the years, pretty reliable stuff, if it's the back pin a drop of solvent might free things up, I have a tiny bottle of Kodak movie film cleaner. Good, banned, solvent. I fixed a shutter and a Hassleblad back that were gummed up. Be careful.I vaguely recall a thread a few years back where one of the Bronica models -- not sure if it was ETRxx or SQ-x -- was giving a guy fits and it turned out the little multi-exposure lever was cracked and, in his case, not turning the shaft at all. That meant if it was in multi-exposure, it stayed there even when he thought he moved it. May not have anything to do with the OP's problem but does suggest a close inspection of some of the visible controls. Those little beasties contain a remarkable amount of complexity with the various interlocks, etc.
I do like my SQ-A for "really serious" work but find myself picking up my Yashica TLR for its simplicity in more casual walk-abouts.
I have a habit of breaking those plastic levers on my ETRSi's. They should have made them beefier. I got the metal lever off a junk ETRS and it fit perfectly- problem solved permanently.This is a fact. The Bronica folks went from a metal lever to a plastic lever when moving from ETRS to ETRSi, same is true with the SQ series. I had to buy a junk body to get a multi-exposure lever for my SQ-AI . It's easy to get this mispositioned. I have had a lot of Bronica stuff over the years, pretty reliable stuff, if it's the back pin a drop of solvent might free things up, I have a tiny bottle of Kodak movie film cleaner. Good, banned, solvent. I fixed a shutter and a Hassleblad back that were gummed up. Be careful.
Sounds like the OP may have got things going, if it's working great.
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