Bronica ETRS and Flash

[Shaggysk8]

Hello,

Ok I have been asked to take some pictures of my Partners shop re-opening, so some live music, few people having fun sort of thing.

Now she asked me to take some pictures using the Bronica ETRS, I said I could but I have no flash, so I know nothing about Flashes whats a good flash to use, what do I need to understand and with the ETRS am I right in thinking I can shoot at any speed?

As always sorry for my ignorance

Paul

 

[blaze-on]

I use a metz 60CT4 with mine, and have the dedicated TTL Bronica cord for it.
You can set your flash to f-stops that correspond with the camera settings. I have two Sunpak 611's for sale, each with various settings

 

[Tony-S]

Why does she want you to use your Bronica? This sounds like a 35mm job - lighter camera, faster lenses and longer rolls.

 

[Shaggysk8]

Well, I could use my 35mm but I don't find the bronica hard to use. I was also thinking maybe a faster film something like delta 3200.

I have never used a flash, and it's on the 13th Feb...PANIC!!!

 

[DWThomas]

My last effort along these lines was quite recent with a Perkeo II. I went through the four flash units available here, only to learn the first two no longer operate (well, one was a Honeywell Strobonar from the mid-sixties), the most recent is a Canon 430-EX which seemed too large and complicated (and may not even do fiull manual), so I used the Canon 188A I've had since the 1980s (for my A-1). That's one of the "thyristor" variety that meters the light bouncing back and quenches the flash at an appropriate point (electronic magic). As such, it's independent of any in-camera metering, for good or for bad. It has two ranges, the higher of which was good for maybe 25 feet or so with 400 film -- outdoors at night, even. Vivitar was/is another make that had similar flash units. The even older method of course is a straight, blast-away full power flash with a guide number and table to pick the lens opening. With leaf shutters, the sync is usually good to the high/highest shutter speeds, so there's not too much to deal with.

As one who does about 98% of my shooting by available light, I feel pretty uncomfortable with flash, especially if the pictures are "important!"

 

[Shaggysk8]

so you would say, shoot a fast film then.

 

[wiltw]

The Bronica ETRS does not support flash under TTL control, so the dedicated TTL Bronica cord (which is 'Metz 386')mentioned by blaze-on is irrelevant to the OP.

Any flash with Auto mode via the flash's built in photosensor would work, triggered by an ordinary PC connector. If the flash supports user-specified aperture choice, you could shoot at any of the f/stops listed on the flash itself, telling it the ISO value and aperture to use.

The Seiko leaf shutter of the E-series lenses supports flash synch at any speed including 1/500.

BTW, the 'thyristor' merely recycles unused electrical energy back to the storage capacitor, it has nothing to do with flash exposure itself, the photosensor does that.

And the way that ETRSi TTL flash exposure works, it is totally independent of ambient light metering by a TTL metering prism. That makes it very valuable for controlling flash intensity independent of ambient light intensity, yet retaining full automation of both flash and ambient light.

 

[DWThomas]

BTW, the 'thyristor' merely recycles unused electrical energy back to the storage capacitor, it has nothing to do with flash exposure itself, the photosensor does that.

True, the thyristor is not the sensor, but it is the element that cuts off the flash to control the exposure.

 

[DWThomas]

so you would say, shoot a fast film then.

"Maybe!"

In my own thinking it would depend on what sort of space and lighting you have to work in. If you have or can borrow or otherwise get your hands on a flash that would work, it would give you control over the lighting, plus fast exposures to freeze motion effectively. Those are attractive advantages, but might bear a test run before the big event. My Perkeo outing was at a niece's wedding which was outdoors and pitch black by the time the action was under way, so available light was not an option -- a few kerosene torches doesn't do much in a large area! (I could hardly even read the numbers on the focusing barrel. ) Thankfully I was not the official recorder of the event, just humoring my sister who liked a few B&W candids I took at an earlier wedding.

 

[jime11]

As said above you can sync at any speed but setting 1/125 or 1/250 will give usable photos. Auto thyristor flashes are good -- but they are not always accurate. A flash meter will be a big help. Use the manual setting on your flash & take a practice flash at the distance you will be photographing. Adjust the manual power on your flash until the meter gives the apeture you want to use. Then set this on your lens. Here is the *bay # of a type of meter that I have (390148554342). I also have a Sekonic 558 & tested this one against it and it's close enough for print film and extremely easy to use.

 

[John Koehrer]

As long as your distance doesn't change drastically and as long as you can adjust the power on your flash that'll work.
The auto flash would give more flexibility and easily as good a success rate.

 

[wiltw]

Auto thyristor flashes are good -- but they are not always accurate..

'Always' is the operative word. But professional grade flashes like Metz have been used for decades by wedding professionals and those covering other events, and the accuracy is generally terrific...failing when fooled by strong light sources within the view of the sensor and shining toward it (and other very tricky situations). I'd put a flash on Auto for most shots, and into Manual only when the tricky situations arise.

 

[Marvin]

I just used a Vivitar 285 with my Bronica ETRSi. I used the quick flip bracket and PC cord and that worked fine and keeps the flash above the lens when shooting verticals to cast the shadows down behind the subject. The Bronica will sync with all shutter speeds so that will not be a problem. I used this setup to photograph weddings with print film and it worked fine.
Marvin

 

[djorourke]

I occasionally use an Nikon SB-800 in Auto with my ETRsi. I just slide it onto the speed grip and it works great.

My preference is for no flash, and to stick to high-speed film, but I find the flash actually does a half-decent job.