Bromoil Processing

ww12345 · May 13, 2014

OK, so I think I want to try my hand at doing some bromoil prints of some landscapes I've shot. I recently had a long discussion with a member here about photographic vision and I realized that in order to fully "get" that vision I'd have to go back to some older processes and techniques. Anyway, bromoil appears to be the least "alternative" and easiest to jump into (as opposed to wet/dry plate, which I still would kind of like to try...). Anyway, I looked up some bromoil techniques and this one seems to be the most doable, but I have a question (although it may be stupid) - can't everything after the actual print making be done in the light? I know that the first print has to be done in a safelight environment, but can the bleaching and inking be done in the light? My darkroom is kind of cramped, and it would be nice to be able to make the print in the open air, so to speak...

Here's the link: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/bromoils/making-a-bromoil-print

darkosaric · May 14, 2014

ww12345 said:
bromoil appears to be the least "alternative" and easiest to jump into[/url]

Bromoil is on my list as well , from alternatives I find Lith printing and Liquid emulsion very easy and fun. If you did not tried yet - give it a shot.

Xmas · May 14, 2014

You can try normal paper silver bromide VC, and I only had a safe light in wet area. But white should be ok after fix.

I used grade 2 AgBr that was decades old decades ago.

Start with small prints,16x20 following day maybe.

But you need a dry bench with floods if you are going to try and burn and dodge (a second time) with the brushes.

I only did three or four, cleaned the brushes and stored them, I had no free time.

Gonna start up tomorrow...

You need to read several books first, saves time...

mr rusty · May 14, 2014

I haven't tried Bromoil yet, but have some of the materials ready for when I do. The hardest part is getting hold of one of the components of the bleach - potassium dichromate. It's a nasty compound, and before you even think about handling it, read the safety sheets. You can't purchase it through most of the normal channels. It is sometimes available from a well known auction site, but them shipping it to you is definitely against the postal regulations.

You can always PM Gandolfi - who is probably the No1 Bromoil expert here, for some guidance.

TheToadMen · May 14, 2014

I've taken some courses (@ Polychrome in The Netherlands) in several alt-photo processes, like gum, salt, cyanotype, VanDykeBrown, kallitype, carbon, albumen, casein. Having done all, I think that Bromoil is the most creative and relaxing alt-printing process for me. I also like salt, carbon and albumen very much, but Bromoil fits me best.

Bromoil printing is a good way (for me) to practice "slow photography" and to step away from the edge of the digital abyss. Being able to do it in daylight at the kitchen table and finishing a print tomorrow (or not) is a nice bonus too.

Go for it and have fun!!

BTW: there is a bromoil group at this forum: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

GLSmyth · May 14, 2014

Yes, everything is done in the light. I have done quite a few Bromoil prints (I consider it to be my primary process) and would recommend against flood lights, as you want to ink the prints in generally the same light as it will be seen.

Potassium dichromate is indeed nasty, but like all darkroom chemistry, it needs to be treated with respect. In this particular case I always use gloves when working with this stuff as a precaution. I get all of my chemistry from Artcraft and you can find this at http://bit.ly/1jsNbUL.

Personally, I would not put Bromoil towards the top of easiest processes to jump into. I've got over a hundred prints in my reject pile (I keep failures for tests and for making bookmarks with my website information on the back) and can tell you about the frustration of making a print, letting it dry for a day, bleaching/tanning it, letting it dry for a day, then realizing that the contrast or exposure should have been other than it was printed on the third day. I would say that if you want an easy process then salt, VanDyke, cyanotype, etc., would all be considerably easier. But it's all about matching the process with your vision, so whatever that takes will be worthwhile.

Cheers -

george

Jerevan · May 14, 2014

Sadly, the Bromoilista group is rather quiet, but whenever someone posts, I try to keep it going with whatever answers I can give.

A good start is Derek Watkins' book Bromoil - a foundation course (ISBN-13: 978-1861083333) or this link: http://www.bromoil.info/reading room.html with older literature. The video with Joy Goldkind (you can find it under the "Videos" section here on APUG) showing how she works is also informative.

I've seen Maija McDougals' bromoils in real life, and some of them reminded me of delicate pencil drawings - wonderful in their quietness.

GLSmyth · May 14, 2014

I started a Bromoil forum on Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/groups/bromoil/) where one can ask questions and post images.

Cheers -

george

gandolfi · May 14, 2014

mr rusty said:
You can always PM Gandolfi - who is probably the No1 Bromoil expert here, for some guidance.

that's very kind, but hardly accurate... as I have only done one (!!) bromoil on the classic technique....

However, should you want to go crazy, then I'd (of course) recommend using liquid emulsion as base for the initial print..

To at least, this i smuch easier then the classic way - and presents a LOT more variations...

(it will also look a little different though..)

I made a small book on "how to"... you can find it here: http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/3544067

cliveh · May 14, 2014

What you should take on board with Bromoil and with many alternative processes is that there is no right and wrong way. There are probably as many versions of bromoil production as there are people practising the technique. The key message about bromoil is that it is more about the physical characteristics of the paper and its physical behaviour from chemical intervention, than processing chemistry. For example temperature and physical attributes of the paper surface are very important. I think in many ways it is similar to lithography and to that end I have found lithographic inks very useful for this process.

ww12345 · May 15, 2014

Cool! Thanks for all the advice! I'm really looking forward to the process - I ordered the chemicals today so hopefully they will be here by this weekend and I can start practicing...

TheToadMen · May 21, 2014

Hi,
Did you see this "(there was a url link here which no longer exists)" about Bromoil DVD? I don't know this DVD myself but could be interesting?

ww12345 · May 21, 2014

No... That does look interesting. I'll check it out. Thanks!

Take2 · May 26, 2014

Just getting into Bromoils. I posted to the group with details and the preparations. Its great to find this (and other) thread -- tons of helpful info, especially since I'll be going the LE route.

TheToadMen · May 26, 2014

Take2 said:
Just getting into Bromoils. I posted to the group with details and the preparations. Its great to find this (and other) thread -- tons of helpful info, especially since I'll be going the LE route.

Hi, welcome to APUG! Looking forward to see your bromoils.

Bromoil Processing

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