Bromoil papers and ink

Gene_Laughter · Sep 1, 2006

terri · Sep 2, 2006

These are the exact same brushes I use (and what I paid, too!). They are lovely, lightweight and easy to handle.

I haven't gotten around to trimming anything, though. I have a rather motley assortment of brushes and only one with a stag's foot shape, which I use for hopping. Virtually all the inking I've done has been with flat brushes.

Skott · Sep 2, 2006

Thanks. However it seems like it not is possible to order the brushes to Sweden. So I have to find something here I suppose. Best, Fredrik

Juraj Kovacik · Sep 2, 2006

You can order basic supply from www.bromoil.com. and there is an basic book

http://www.amazon.com/Bromoil-Found...=pd_bbs_1/002-6686201-9996069?ie=UTF8&s=books

j.

Gene_Laughter · Sep 2, 2006

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/altproc11.html

Skott · Sep 4, 2006

Thanks!

I have found a lot of different recepies for the matrix on Internet. Which one do you use? Do you think the following is ok (I have soft water, which mean that I do not have to use Sulphuric Acid or something else?):

Copper Sulphate 50g
Potassium Bromide 50g
Potassium Dichromate 2.5g
Water up to 800 ml

Best,
Fredrik

Jerevan · Sep 4, 2006

I don't know if this process and its chemicals need it, but I'd use distilled or deionized water to make up the solution, just to rule out any possibility of impurities in the water contaminating or otherwise ruining the solution. And it would make for one thing less to think about if you need to find where it all went wrong.

But let's see what the experts say...

EDIT: Looking forward to the results!

Skott · Sep 4, 2006

Thanks.

Is distilled or deionized water "soft"?

Regards,
Fredrik

Jerevan · Sep 4, 2006

If I got it correctly, (theoretically at least) distilled water should have a Ph of 7.0 (neutral) but carbon dioxide (nothing one can do anything about) that dissolves into the distilled water lowers the Ph, which means a Ph value between 6 and 5 isn't unusual. So essentially, distilled or deionized water would be slightly soft but without but with less risk of impurities in the water.

Soft water is low on magnesium and calcium, for example. So given that, unless there are other kinds of impurities in the water, I suppose that soft water (acidic in Ph) would work well.

Skott · Sep 5, 2006

No one?

I have found a lot of different recepies for the matrix on Internet. Which one do you use? Do you think the following is ok (I have soft water, which mean that I do not have to use Sulphuric Acid or something else?):

Copper Sulphate 50g
Potassium Bromide 50g
Potassium Dichromate 2.5g
Water up to 800 ml

Best,
Fredrik

terri · Sep 5, 2006

Gene_Laughter said:
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/altproc11.html

ooo! Will you look at that.....I'll take one of each, please.

Thanks for this link, Gene!

Juraj Kovacik · Sep 6, 2006

ad bleatcher

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

j.

Skott · Sep 11, 2006

Thanks. But what do you mean with add bleacher? Is there some chemical missing? / F.

Juraj Kovacik · Sep 12, 2006

ad = about
looking forward to your pictures

j.

Skott · Sep 12, 2006

Juraj Kovacik said:
ad = about
looking forward to your pictures

j.

Ok, then I see. Thanks!

Regards, F.

Gene_Laughter · Sep 12, 2006

F., Let me make a suggestion. Save yourself the time and trouble of asking one question at a time. There are about as many bromoil formulas, tools and methods as there are bromoilists.

Download the book linked below and read it well. Get your materials together and start making some bromoil prints. You'll make plenty of mistakes but you can learn from them. Practice. Experiment. Just do it! :>)

Dead Link Removed

Good luck,

Gene Laughter

Gene_Laughter · Sep 12, 2006

By the way, If there is one thing I have learned about bromoil it is that what works for one worker in the process doesn't mean that it will work for another. This applies to exposure, papers used, soak times, types of bromoil brushes used, inking methods and techniques, degree of ink stiffness -- and what have you. Some of us working in bromoil have a pet saying, "Whatever works, works!" Each bromoilist must find their own way and determine their own methodology. As an example I knew Norman Gryspeerdt. When inking a print he pounded the ink onto the matrix. Most other bromoilists use a light touch. The pounding method worked for Norman, however and it was right for him!!! I suggest that you purchase the Gryspeerdt video. There is a wealth of information there.

Give yourself a deadline and a goal. Show us a bromoil print within 30 days!!!!

Cheers,

Gene Laughter

tom_micklin · Sep 12, 2006

Gene_Laughter said:
By the way, If there is one thing I have learned about bromoil it is that what works for one worker in the process doesn't mean that it will work for another. This applies to exposure, papers used, soak times, types of bromoil brushes used, inking methods and techniques, degree of ink stiffness -- and what have you.

Based on years of Bromoil experience, I can heartily endorse what Gene is saying. Get 10 Bromoilists in a room and you'll get 12 or 15 distinctly different approaches to even the most basic aspects of the process.
Get up to your elbows in matrices and ink and you'll find what works for you.
Regards,
Tom

Gene_Laughter · Sep 12, 2006

Thanks Tom! Back to the Whalley book. It was written in 1961 so read it for a broad understanding of the process and don't take everything literally. Be loose and don't split hairs. Keep in mind that bromoil will be a challange and have both patience and persistance. Some learn to ink very good bromoil prints in a few days. It takes others months or even years! One of the top bromoilists that I know spent several months struggling and then - eureka! The light came on and she took off in creative and technical flight! Don't give up. Accept the challenge and find your own path to success in the process. Nail down inking a bromoil print in black or brown ink. Don't even think about using colored inks until you have mastered inking a matrix in monochrome inks. You may well never wish to ink in multi colors. Few of the true masters of the bromoil process ever did. Norman Gryspeerdt is a classic example!

Cheers and good luck!

Gene Laughter

Skott · Sep 12, 2006

Hi!

Thanks for all your advices. I will upload a bromoil as soon as I have made one - hopeful within a mounth. I have also read a rather good Swedish book, "Handbok i ädelförfarande" of Björn Andersson, which deals with the bromoil process and I have also seen the Gryspeerdt video. I will also buy your book!

Best regards,
Fredrik

Bromoil papers and ink

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