Brite screens etc

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Melvin J Bramley

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There are many options for so called 'brite screens' for medium format cameras.
Prices vary from $30 to $200!
In this world where he or she has the biggest advertising budget usually wins is it possible some inexpensive upstart has a good product?
I just purchased a nice Minolta Autocord and will possibly update the viewscreen with something that makes focusing easier.


TB
 

Pieter12

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Your camera is old technology and there are relatively few of them. Why do you think there might be an inexpensive upstart of any kind. Your best bet is used or Rick Oleson.
 

wiltw

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'brighter' viewfinder = finer surface texture = less precision/accuracy of focus
'darket' viewfinder = coarser surface texture = more precision/accuracy of focus

So most users find 'same coarseness as stock' for overall screen texture, in combination with some form of 'focus aid' (split image, or microprism) is the combinaiton to adopt. Cameras (SLRs) that use some form of TTL metering typically do not work as well with changes in focus screen brightess, as the meter is thrown off by the change.

Finding something to fit your camera is less likely now, with the decline in popularity not making it so worthwhile for products to be developed and offered for sale.
 

blee1996

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I had several of my older TLRs services by @Dan Daniel , and often changed to brighter screens.

In the past, Dan used repurposed Mamiya screens which are excellent. And in recent months, we started to use affordable new screens from eBay and they seem to work fine.
 

btaylor

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I’ll vote for the Rick Oleson screen because I have a couple and I like them. Brightened up a couple of Rollei TLRs of mine. About $90.
 

OAPOli

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I find the default Autocord screen to be pretty decent. I tried one of the plain $40CAD Chinese screens. It's marginally brighter but there's a strange speckle between the Fresnel lines which impedes focusing accuracy. Maybe I got a dud. I also tried similarly-priced eBay screens with split prisms but there are quite poor. Oleson screens are really nice but I wish they came in a plain configuration with no focusing aid.
 

jimjm

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I installed one of Rick Oleson's screens in my Rolleicord III and it gave a significantly brighter view across the screen, for a reasonable price. This helped in composition as the corners were much better than the stock screen, but focusing didn't seem to be as quick as before. Also check that the mirror is not dirty or flaking. A clean mirror makes a big difference and they are easy to replace on the Autocord (at least it was on my MXS).
 
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Melvin J Bramley

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I installed one of Rick Oleson's screens in my Rolleicord III and it gave a significantly brighter view across the screen, for a reasonable price. This helped in composition as the corners were much better than the stock screen, but focusing didn't seem to be as quick as before. Also check that the mirror is not dirty or flaking. A clean mirror makes a big difference and they are easy to replace on the Autocord (at least it was on my MXS).

Looking through my viewfinder I think a cleaning is required, start with the easy fixes!
Thanks.
 

BrianShaw

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Looking through my viewfinder I think a cleaning is required, start with the easy fixes!
Thanks.

Always a good place to start. Be very careful if you clean the mirror asit probably is a first-surface mirrors that can scratch easily.
 

Jeremy Mudd

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Always a good place to start. Be very careful if you clean the mirror asit probably is a first-surface mirrors that can scratch easily.

And if the mirror is too far gone, there's a guy on ebay that sells new, cut replacements for around $14. I've installed several in older TLR's. That combined with a Rick Oleson screen really changes things.

Jeremy
 

George Mann

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And if the mirror is too far gone, there's a guy on ebay that sells new, cut replacements for around $14. I've installed several in older TLR's. That combined with a Rick Oleson screen really changes things.

Jeremy

Can these replacement mirrors be cleaned safetly without the risk of desilvering?

Can the stock mirror in a Yashica A be cleaned safetly as well?
 

Dan Daniel

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Can these replacement mirrors be cleaned safetly without the risk of desilvering?

Can the stock mirror in a Yashica A be cleaned safetly as well?

Most modern mirrors have a coating that both reduces tarnish and makes it possible to clean them. BUT any cleaning need to be very delicate as the surface will still take scratches. It is NOT as hard as a modern lens coating. Think more of cleaning a negative.

A Yashica A mirror will most likely be uncoated. The best thing to do is simply buy a new one from marty on Ebay-

 

George Mann

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Thanks for linking to this particular mirror. It wasn't specifically listed on his general profile page.
 

Helge

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'brighter' viewfinder = finer surface texture = less precision/accuracy of focus
'darket' viewfinder = coarser surface texture = more precision/accuracy of focus

It has to do with collimation vs. diffusion of light.
Fresnel screens are more efficient in getting more light towards the eye but it contains less focus information.
The ultimate collimated finder is a bright finder like found on pseudo TLRs or the Lubitel (with the small matte spot in the middle), or a Galilean finder, and they contain zero focus information and are not used as such.

It’s about finding a good balance.
But a good matte screen finder can, although darker, counterintuitively be better for finding focus in dark circumstances because contrast is higher.

I vastly prefer old fashioned matte diffusion screens on TLRs and medium format SLRs.

For 135 SLRs Minolta with the Acute-Matte™ screen, among other brilliant innovations, found a magic sauce for having your cake and eating it too.
It has a special laser etched pattern that uniquely both contains focus information and directs more light towards the viewer.
I find it works much better in an eye cup finder than a waist level finder, and better in 135 than in medium format.
 
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George Mann

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Could a brighter screen along with a new mirror improve my ability to focus my Yashica, or should I stick with the stock screen?
 
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'brighter' viewfinder = finer surface texture = less precision/accuracy of focus

This gets repeated all the time. FWIW I have always used Bill Maxwell’s screens in my Rolleiflexes. They are pricey but I have not seen the focus issues that others attribute to “bright” screens. I have not tried an Oleson screen but I can confirm, for example, that the Maxwell screens are far better, in brightness and detail, than the Acute Matte screens found in Hasselblads. The Maxwells are also much better than the bright screens that came from the factory in the later Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords. I would choose Maxwells over Beattie screens, but the difference between them is marginal.

It may be that you get what you pay for — that the cheaper screens do present focus issues and that might be a good reason to shell out the extra dollars for a Maxwell screen.
 

Helge

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This gets repeated all the time. FWIW I have always used Bill Maxwell’s screens in my Rolleiflexes. They are pricey but I have not seen the focus issues that others attribute to “bright” screens. I have not tried an Oleson screen but I can confirm, for example, that the Maxwell screens are far better, in brightness and detail, than the Acute Matte screens found in Hasselblads. The Maxwells are also much better than the bright screens that came from the factory in the later Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords. I would choose Maxwells over Beattie screens, but the difference between them is marginal.

It may be that you get what you pay for — that the cheaper screens do present focus issues and that might be a good reason to shell out the extra dollars for a Maxwell screen.

Is simply optics really. There are ways to reach an optimal compromise of course.
But I suspect a good deal of the difference between Acute-Matte™ in MF vs. 135 cameras is down to lens speed.
Apertures over 2.8 are rare in MF. A bigger aperture always makes focusing more visible on the screen.
With longer lenses on 135 you have a shallower DoF so it’s easier to focus and with wider lenses the DoF is larger, so exact focus matter less.
 
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Is simply optics really. There are ways to reach an optimal compromise of course.

My sense is there is a lot of variation in how the screens are designed and manufactured. Bill Maxwell can (and gladly will) explain it all in more detail than I can repeat here. Another photographer wrote up a detailed comparison of the Rolleiflex, Oleson and Maxwell bright screens -- his conclusions track my own:


One thing to note: The best Maxwell screens are the Hi-Lux models without center focusing aids. Bill sells screens with center spots but he outsources their production and they do not resolve as well as the plain Hi-Lux screens. The plain screens are so good that images snap into and out of focus everywhere on the screen -- you lose nothing for ditching the center spot.
 

ymc226

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I have tried to look up Bill Maxwell on the internet but don’t have any luck. Is he still in business as I need several screens.
 

btaylor

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I have never been a fan of the split image focusing aids, but the micro prism center on my Oleson screen snaps into focus very noticeably.
 

George Mann

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I have never been a fan of the split image focusing aids, but the micro prism center on my Oleson screen snaps into focus very noticeably.

I am interested in the MP as well. I am just wondering how well it will work with the f/3.5 viewing lens.
 

wiltw

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This gets repeated all the time. FWIW I have always used Bill Maxwell’s screens in my Rolleiflexes. They are pricey but I have not seen the focus issues that others attribute to “bright” screens. I have not tried an Oleson screen but I can confirm, for example, that the Maxwell screens are far better, in brightness and detail, than the Acute Matte screens found in Hasselblads. The Maxwells are also much better than the bright screens that came from the factory in the later Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords. I would choose Maxwells over Beattie screens, but the difference between them is marginal.

It may be that you get what you pay for — that the cheaper screens do present focus issues and that might be a good reason to shell out the extra dollars for a Maxwell screen.

I have long used Bill Maxwell focus screen on 4x5 monorail. I don't know that he still offers products. Last known contact information

(404) 317 6825
maxwellprecisionoptics@yahoo.com
 

Jeremy Mudd

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Maybe I am missing something but couldn't you simply use the magnifier that comes with the camera to aid focusing?

Sometimes the magnifier isn't enough for some on older cameras with dim glass and/or degraded mirrors. This is especially true for me as my eyes age along with the parts of the camera. :smile:

Jeremy
 

Jeremy Mudd

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Can these replacement mirrors be cleaned safetly without the risk of desilvering?

Can the stock mirror in a Yashica A be cleaned safetly as well?

TBH I haven't had to crack one and clean a new mirror that I've replaced recently. It takes a long while for mirrors to get really dirty by design in most TLR's.

Most of the stock mirrors are mostly pitted and degraded versus just being dirty. So cleaning them isn't as easy as a blower and light wipe with a micro-fiber cloth.

It's worth you cracking open your Yashica A and taking a look at the mirror. If it isn't pitted to hell and flaking, then give it a go at cleaning. Also clean the underside of your current groundglass/screen. That enough may make a big enough difference for you. Otherwise, if it is too far gone its worth picking up a mirror replacement on eBay.

Jeremy
 
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