Breech-Lock (FD and FL) mount Canon reflex camera recommendations

[Neil Grant]

...what are these like as viable vintage cameras? Not the pro level F1, rather the entry level models like the FTb, EX etc
Any nasties to watch out for?

 

[mtnbkr]

In the 90s I had a Canon TL QL with 50/1.8 lens (this was my dad's camera from the early 70s until I started using it, I still have the lens). Currently I own/use an FT QL with 50/1.4 lens. Aside from foam issues and maybe age-related shutter performance issues, I'm not aware of any specific nasties. The meters on those cameras use the old mercury batteries, but they can be modified for modern batteries or you can simple adjust for the difference in meter performance. I've not found it to be an issue and merely go by what the meter says with maybe a smidge of additional exposure depending on the scene and conditions.

My FT needed a CLA, shutter tune-up, new foam, and a new prism to get it back into a usable state, but I don't know how it was treated before I bought it. That work cost me about $90 at Garry's Camera Repair and was turned around in a week. The TL never got a CLA and was worked flawlessly for nearly 30 years (and was still working when it was discarded). Dad wasn't a serious photographer, this was just the camera he bought for family snapshots, vacations, etc.

Chris

 

[dynachrome]

The FTb of 1971 and the FTbN of 1974 are some of my favorite cameras. Generally, they can still be repaired. The two interesting features are the QL (Quick Loading) system and the 12% metering pattern. If one of these cameras has shutter curtains in good shape then anything else cam be fixed. The cameras have mirror lock-up, which can be useful. The cameras have full aperture metering with FD mount lenses and can also be used in stop-down mode with the older FL mount lenses. The FTb was a camera which the late Ivor Matanle liked. You can read about it in his book on SLRs.

 

[MattKing]

Thread title clarified a bit. I don't know that the OP meant to include the FL mount cameras, but they are part of the clan.
I was tempted to remove the reference to "vintage" as well, because it made me feel old, but I thought better of it.

 

[gone]

The word "vintage" threw me a bit, I was thinking of old folders because I was made before these Canon cameras were. It's probably something only us oldsters would notice, and I don't have a better word than oldster.

I like the FTb/FTn/FT QL series and the AE-1/AE1/P. Unfortunately, the FT cameras won't work w/ my eyeglasses.

The AE-1P camera is sort of a ringer. Not pro, not amateur. Like all of these AE models, it will eventually suffer annoying shutter squeek and the electronics could die at any time.

Get the FTb and the like if you don't wear glasses, it's sor of a Japanese Leicaflex. Get the AE-1P if you want an electronic camera w/ AE, AE lock, the ability to use 3rd party lenses and meter (after jumping through some hoops), and you don't mind fixing or replacing it when it dies. Get the F1 if you want the best Canon camera that works w/ FD and FL lenses. Be prepared to build up your arm muscles.

 

[Paul Howell]

Although not an issue that has come up often when discussing Canon FD/FL mount bodies, hat I would look for is excessive wear on the breech lock ring on the camera body. If the camera was heavily used the ring can become lose and lens will not be tight against the mount. When locked in place there should no play.

 

[Dirb9]

The only FD cameras I'd avoid for regular use are the real early Canonflexes, as the lens mount is slightly different from FD, so you're stuck with stop down metering, and they're the oldest of the Canon SLRs. The Pellix is nice, but the mirror is easily damaged, and unlike a normal SLR, dirt on the mirror will show up in the final image, in operation they're pretty much the same as the FT series, except quieter.. I'll also throw out a seemingly forgotten camera, the EF. It's one step below the F1 (in fact, many of the internal systems are the same), extremely well built, has an excellent metering system, and uses the very reliable Copal Square shutter. They go for much less than the AE1s these days, probably just due to the difficulty of doing an internet search for the name!

 

[AgX]

Although not an issue that has come up often when discussing Canon FD/FL mount bodies, hat I would look for is excessive wear on the breech lock ring on the camera body. If the camera was heavily used the ring can become lose and lens will not be tight against the mount. When locked in place there should no play.

First time I hear of that ring being worn out. But it was designed to be the weakest part, and not the flanges, and can be most easily replaced by a salvaged ring.
But the ring does not "become loose", but it will get worn out to a degree that it no longer can press the flanges together sufficiently.

 

[AgX]

If you want within the FD-range to "place" subject-detail luminance, then, after the T90, on second place comes the FTb(new):
-) 12% spot-metering patch
-) -1.5 to +1.5 stop placing with the needle
-) exposure time indcation in the finder (new)
1.5 stops is about the limitation with needle/paddle displays. Needle/fixed-markers displays (e.g. Praktica L-series) basically could yield a wider range

 

[eli griggs]

The Ftb, Ftbn with the ql system is a great camera, solid and reliable.

A diode can be fitted to the power line so SL44/LR44 batteries can be used.

I have had six or seven Ftbs, both types, and I have yet to find one with a broken light meter, unlike so many other slr cameras from that era.

I have a tx which is also a solid camera, however, it's the F1n and F1N cameras, the A-1 and the rest of the A series are all good choices, if working correctly as well as other F-series bodies.

Good luck making a choice, Canon cameras are real tools meant to be used by real photographers making photographs and the F1, both systems, have many great lenses and accessories to fit out your bag.

 

[ricardo12458]

I'll also throw out a seemingly forgotten camera, the EF. It's one step below the F1 (in fact, many of the internal systems are the same), extremely well built, has an excellent metering system, and uses the very reliable Copal Square shutter. They go for much less than the AE1s these days, probably just due to the difficulty of doing an internet search for the name!

+1 for the EF - it was also one of the first Canons with an internal VRM - will take modern alkaline PX625 without re-calibration
Roughly the same feature set as the (original) AE-1, batteries optional, long timed exposures. It's my main camera now.

 

[waynecrider]

I’ve owned both the FTB and the FTBN and still have a FTB that needs a slight repair so I can use it again. My favorite feature of these cameras is the rectangular metering patch which is so easy to use to bias the metering of the scene one way or the other by swinging the camera toward bright areas or darker area's and observing the needle location. It’s like having a meter in your hand. That said, it is a chunk of metal and if shooting even a medium telephoto lens it can get tiring to use on a walk about so make sure you have a good camera strap. On the end of a monopod tho it’s a great weapon as were all the “F” bodies.
Out of the FD series of bodies I still prefer FTB’s over the Canon A1 or the AE bodies. I jumped to Nikon before buying into the F series.

 

[flavio81]

...what are these like as viable vintage cameras? Not the pro level F1, rather the entry level models like the FTb, EX etc
Any nasties to watch out for?

FT, FTb, TX, T70, AE-1P, AV-1, AT-1... all of them are nice cameras.

I only have the F-1 and F-1 New right now, but i woulnd't mind a T70 if a mint one crossed my path.

 

[Javier González]

+1 for the EF - it was also one of the first Canons with an internal VRM - will take modern alkaline PX625 without re-calibration
Roughly the same feature set as the (original) AE-1, batteries optional, long timed exposures. It's my main camera now.

I also recommend the EF. The electronics are frequently dead, so check for it. Mine has the electronic-driven speeds sticky, but the meter and auto exposure work flawlessly. I much prefer the vertical,
metal shuter to the fabric, horizontal ones. You can use cheap alkaline batteries without issues.