Box camera shutter spring material and homemade film sheaths

[spoolman]

I recently purchased a kodak #2 Eureka box camera and the spring from the shutter release to the shutter disc was missing and I'm also looking to fabricate film sheaths for the plate holders for this camera.

Any ideas as to what type of material and fabrication technique to do so for the sheaths and the spring.

Doug

 

[AZD]

I don’t know about the sheath, but guitar strings make great springs. The unwound ones are commonly available from around .007” to .018” and thinner/thicker if you look around. I have made a few tiny springs for Compur shutters and they worked great.

I messed around with heating and tempering a little but found it to be too unpredictable. The idea was to maybe make thicker springs that were easier to bend into tight radii, but all I got was a lot of frustration and brittle steel. Just work with the material as is. If it’s too difficult to bend, use a thinner string.

 

[DWThomas]

Haven't looked lately, but hobby shops that cater to serious model airplane folks often carry assorted sizes of piano wire (used for control actuation). I've occasionally made a spring from that.

 

[spoolman]

Haven't looked lately, but hobby shops that cater to serious model airplane folks often carry assorted sizes of piano wire (used for control actuation). I've occasionally made a spring from that.

Thanks for the information. I'll be going to a hobby shop here in Toronto that caters to model plane people and see what they have.

Doug

 

[spoolman]

I don’t know about the sheath, but guitar strings make great springs. The unwound ones are commonly available from around .007” to .018” and thinner/thicker if you look around. I have made a few tiny springs for Compur shutters and they worked great.

I messed around with heating and tempering a little but found it to be too unpredictable. The idea was to maybe make thicker springs that were easier to bend into tight radii, but all I got was a lot of frustration and brittle steel. Just work with the material as is. If it’s too difficult to bend, use a thinner string.

Thanks for the information. I found a business here in Toronto that repairs pianos and other musical instruments. I'll give them a call and see what they have in stock.

Doug

 

[Don_ih]

I have used aluminum flashing material to make film sheaths for 5x7 plate holders. You use good flat black spray paint on the aluminum.

 

[spoolman]

I have used aluminum flashing material to make film sheaths for 5x7 plate holders. You use good flat black spray paint on the aluminum.

Hi Don: did you use an old 5x7 glass plate as a guide for cutting the aluminum flash to size and how much did you leave extra on the sides and bottom to fold over to hold the film sheets in place?

Doug

 

[Dwight Anderson]

I have a Ray box camera that takes 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" plates like yours. I ordered custom sized plates from J. Lane for a reasonable price. You can see some of my results here: https://www.cameravignette.com/post/1896-ray-plate-camera-mutschler-robertson-co I was tray developing for the first time, so there are some improvements to be made.

I have also used 5x7 sheet film in my Herlango view camera by putting double sided tape on the top and bottom of plain glass plates and sticking the film to the plate. I have wooden book style double holders, but I would think it would work in yours as long as the plate and film fit in the groove in the frame. I was a little concerned about film flatness, but I think it worked well. Here was my first test.

 

[Don_ih]

Hi Don: did you use an old 5x7 glass plate as a guide for cutting the aluminum flash to size and how much did you leave extra on the sides and bottom to fold over to hold the film sheets in place?

Doug

I used a sheet of 5x7 film to determine the correct size. The foldover is about 1/8". If you use a sheet of film, you will end up with a film sheath that fits the holder (normally).

 

[spoolman]

I have a Ray box camera that takes 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" plates like yours. I ordered custom sized plates from J. Lane for a reasonable price. You can see some of my results here: https://www.cameravignette.com/post/1896-ray-plate-camera-mutschler-robertson-co I was tray developing for the first time, so there are some improvements to be made.

I have also used 5x7 sheet film in my Herlango view camera by putting double sided tape on the top and bottom of plain glass plates and sticking the film to the plate. I have wooden book style double holders, but I would think it would work in yours as long as the plate and film fit in the groove in the frame. I was a little concerned about film flatness, but I think it worked well. Here was my first test.

View attachment 320668

Hi Dwight: how many plates did you order and what was the ISO of them?

Doug

 

[spoolman]

I used a sheet of 5x7 film to determine the correct size. The foldover is about 1/8". If you use a sheet of film, you will end up with a film sheath that fits the holder (normally).

Hi Don: thanks for that. I'll give it a go when I have time. I'm working on restoring 6 different cameras at this time and the Eureka is number 7. All of this should keep me busy over the winter.

Doug

 

[Dwight Anderson]

Hi Dwight: how many plates did you order and what was the ISO of them?

Doug

I ordered a box of 10 speed plates, iso 25. I contacted him through https://www.pictoriographica.com/
But it appears he has moved locations and may not be producing them right now. His user name is Nodda Duma on this forum

 

[Molli]

I ordered a box of 10 speed plates, iso 25. I contacted him through https://www.pictoriographica.com/
But it appears he has moved locations and may not be producing them right now. His user name is Nodda Duma on this forum

Speaking of Jason Lane Plates, a massive shout out to Jason; not just for his contribution to the community but to his SENSE of community. Legend!

(ALT-Text for anyone using a screen reader: Screen shot of www.pictoriographica.com current landing page. It reads:

"BIG ANNOUNCEMENT: PICTORIOGRAPHICA DRY PLATE MAKING OPERATIONS ARE SUSPENDED WHILE NEW PRODUCTION FACILITIES ARE BUILT. THIS IS EXPECTED TO REQUIRE THE REST OF 2022. In the meantime, please visit the fine retailers listed on the Where to Buy page, many of whom still carry remaining stock of plates made before the move. If they don't have the size plates you need, I also recommend checking out Nejc Urankar's fine Zebra Dry Plates: https://zebradryplates.com (Within the small, niche, dry plate community, we should all encourage each other to enjoy and grow our interest)."

I've circled Jason's recommendation of Nejc Urankar's Zebra Dry Plates in red.)

 

[spoolman]

Hello Dwight: thanks for this information. I'll check out the Zebra Dry Plates website.

Doug

 

[BobUK]

I messed around with heating and tempering a little but found it to be too unpredictable. The idea was to maybe make thicker springs that were easier to bend into tight radii, but all I got was a lot of frustration and brittle steel. Just work with the material as is. If it’s too difficult to bend, use a thinner string.

An old watch repair trick when hardening and tempering very small parts is to hold the item in the flame until the red or tempering colour has been reached. Right next to the flame is held a potato. The closeness of the potato does not give the item a chance to chill when going from the flame to the coolant (potato). When the desire temperature is reached immediately move the two towards each other and stab the item into the potato. I have used this on quite a few times.
Sounds daft but it does work.

 

[AZD]

No, it makes perfect sense. Like quenching in water vs. oil, or something like that. Just another way to control the temperature.