...many years ago the Bolex H16 was a very popular camera (in professional fields) for wild-life and time-lapse filming. There used to a 'proper' time lapse unit - but unlike your device it had an electric motor that drove the camera, as well as a timer unit. The winding crank was removed and the motor also attached to a pair of tapped holes adjacent to the 'GO' button. IIRC it was suitable only for the latter cameras - the so called RX 5 and beyond. 16mm film stock records 40 frames per foot. My current time-lapse camera is a solar powered Nikon dSLR and has the potential for almost unlimited running. If course this is miles away from the world of clockwork cameras, standard and self-blimped Arriflexes, synch pulse tape recorders and all the other 'bits' that using real film entailed. What are you trying to film??
I have finished the intervalometer. It goes from one frame each 6 seconds to one frame each 1 second. Exposure is either 1/25 sec or up to 3 seconds (T or I). It runs from a 2 Cell LiPo.
For those that don't know, the Bolex has always been great for time lapse and stop-motion, because the shutter is light-tight between the single frames.
Nice job. Your camera looks like a 'round base' - so the 'modern' TL unit wouldn't work on it. I love the noise of an H16 clockwork motor running at 24 fps - sounds like victory!
Nice job. Your camera looks like a 'round base' - so the 'modern' TL unit wouldn't work on it. I love the noise of an H16 clockwork motor running at 24 fps - sounds like victory!
I also have a Rex4 with the motor mount screws and 1:1 drive (I don't think they ever made a Rex 5 in this format) but for now the old non-Rex spring motor camera is working well.
They never made an Aspheron for this tiny EE zoom, so I made my own from a wide-angle converter and an adapter from sk-grimes.
No 3d printing, all parts are spare RC parts. For example the guide is an anti-rotation bracket from a helicopter swash plate. That servo tester is not able to have a very long interval.