Blue Only Sensitive Film

[dancqu]

I'd like to do some film developer tests using
film; blue sensitive only. I've a transmission
densitometer. My very well lighted Graded
paper darkroom would fog any Ortho.

Any such thing; blue sensitive only? Dan

 

[rusty71]

I'd like to do some film developer tests using
film; blue sensitive only. I've a transmission
densitometer. My very well lighted Graded
paper darkroom would fog any Ortho.

Any such thing; blue sensitive only? Dan

Ilford used to make an orthochromatic film in sheet sizes. The Efke/Adox 25 and 50 ISO films are primarily blue sensitive, but not true ortho.

 

[nworth]

I'd like to do some film developer tests using
film; blue sensitive only. I've a transmission
densitometer. My very well lighted Graded
paper darkroom would fog any Ortho.

Any such thing; blue sensitive only? Dan

These films are becoming very hard to find. They are usually specialty films for scientific work or motion picture print films. For your purposes, you probably want a camera film of some sort. Most are also high contrast films, which may not be what you want. Note also that camera films, even the "blue sensitive only" kinds of film, will generally be fogged by the safelights used for printing. They usually specify at least a light red (Wratten 1 or 1a) filter. That is because the film sensitivity does not abruptly end with blue, but trails off. There is some residual sensitivity at the longer wavelengths. If you want to try development by inspection, it may be best to get an appropriate safelight and to use a desensitizer solution with one of the lower speed, old-style films like EFKE 25. If you need to restrict the color sensitivity, you can do it with filters during exposure.

 

[htmlguru4242]

Would a blue filter work for what you want?

To outofoptions, a blue filter would not accomplish his gal, as he's loking for a film that lacks sensitivity beyond blue; he needs to develop it under safelight, not just have blue light expose the film.

 

[Photo Engineer]

His best option is a pure AgBr emulsion. Sensitive only to blue light and slow slow slow.

PE

 

[jmdavis]

Why not use some of the various ortho films. The cheap ones are high contrast, but I recall a recent shot by Jim Galli that made good use of the contrast.

Mike Davis

 

[jimgalli]

Freestyle APHS Ortho film. (there was a url link here which no longer exists) a piece I wrote about developing it for beautiful continuous tones. There's 2 pics posted with the article.

 

[George Collier]

If I remember my beginnings, ortho is sensitive to blue and green, not just blue. Blue only sensitive was known as "nonchromatic", a slight misnomer, since blue is a color. Years ago, there were copy films available, nonchr, continuous tone. I don't recall their names...
If red safelight is your concern, an ortho film with a red bulb inside a red filtered safelight should be ok (I'm conservative). Test, like always.

 

[df cardwell]

If you want blue sensitive, you might find some Kodak Commercial film ( discontinued ). It is a versatile film, for copying and continuous tone.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f16/f16.pdf

If you want to develop by inspection in with your safelights, you might try a very good commercial desensitizer, D-Tec, available from Antec, in Louisville KY:

http://www.kyantec.com/photographic.htm

You will be able to desensitized your film, and them - using almost every film and developer combination - work under normal orange safelight.

http://www.kyantec.com/photographic.htm

.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Just as an FYI, just about all films have 'holes' in their spectral sensitivity curves. These 'holes' are windows where safelights can be used.

At EK we knew these openings and had sets of flashlights with appropriate filters over the lens for each of these whatever they might be. We made the filters from wratten filters cut to size. AAMOF, I have one in my DR for this type of use.

Well, I cheat, I have a spectrosensitometer so I can expose the film and see that 'hole' for myself and then tailor my flashlight for the 'hole'. Anyhow, this is a useful technique.

Usually, there is a very dark green safelight that will work for most all films. We called it MinPan (minimum safelight for panchromatic materials) and it would work for brief periods of time for inspection.

OTOH, we used IR safelights and goggles as well. Another handy suggestion if you wish to spring for the cost. I remember working hours wearing that helmet and goggles on my head years ago. Very hot and sweaty but great for this type of work.

PE

 

[htmlguru4242]

PE; I like the IR goggles idea; as to the cost, with IR illumination that's somewhat bright, you can hack togerther a set of IR googles for about $150.

Anyway, I don't have much experience along these lines, but for a slow blue-sensitive film, I immediately think of the liquid emulsions that are available or homemade emulsions. Due to the lack of affordable ortho snesitizing dyes to normal people, blue sensitive emulsions are all that you can make. I've heard reports of emusions ranging in speed from about .25 ISO to 5 ISO.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I am making, for my own use, emulsions from 12 - 50 ISO that are blue or ortho depending on my mood. These are paper negatives. Film negatives range from 3 - 12 ISO due to technical problems with back reflection and chemical absorption in paper base vs film support. I expect to reach speeds of 100 ISO by the end of the year in either blue or ortho sensitivity.

I am investigating a panchromatic dye from a particular supplier. They promise me a price soon.

I believe that a good IR system for DR work will cost me more than $150. But that is for the future.

PE

 

[clay]

I use Ilford Ortho in-camera. It is about 80 ISO, and comes in 4x5,8x10 and 10x12. Use this with a light blue filter and voila!

 

[dancqu]

I'd like to do some film developer tests using
film; blue sensitive only. I've a transmission
densitometer. My very well lighted Graded
paper darkroom would fog any Ortho. Dan

Well I'm only trying for ballpark results so I'll continue
using the Arista Grade 2 RC. It is blue only sensitive.

I tested an FX-1/Beutler's/Ansco 120/Beer's A type of
developer a few days ago. You know, the metol, sulfite,
carbonate type.

The test on paper is at one or more possible film strengths.
I know that the above developer will produce good negatives.
A film, a formula. Now another formula. Should I not expect
similar same film results when paper results with the other
formula are similar?

For example, what if I wanted to test a low sulfite D-76;
10 rather than 100 grams. I'd test in on paper and make a
comparison with the known film/developer's print results.
If results are similar then I'm in the ballpark with
a new developer.

I've not a whole bunch of film developers to test against
a whole bunch of films. But I do have some and I'd sooner
not have to load, expose, and process a roll for A test. On
top of that I'm a slow shooter.

I'm all alone on this one as I've not seen it suggested that
film developer formulas be tested in this manner. Dan

 

[brent8927]

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned already, but Bergger makes a blue sensitive film; I think the ISO is probably rated at about 10 or so; Bostick and Sullivan sell the film, I'm not sure how many sizes are available though, but I thought it was a wonderful film to work with (though I was just enlarging negatives; it's a continuous-tone film so it's much easier/better to use than a litho film)

 

[Donald Qualls]

Well, if it's blue-sensitive only, it shouldn't be any big deal to recut in the darkroom, as long as it's available in a size *larger* than what you need. I wonder if you could buy it on a roll, with a sufficient minimum purchase?

 

[jandc]

I'd like to do some film developer tests using
film; blue sensitive only. I've a transmission
densitometer. My very well lighted Graded
paper darkroom would fog any Ortho.

Any such thing; blue sensitive only? Dan

Dye transfer matrix film. Blue sensitive on a clear base. Maybe too expensive for your application but I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Dye transfer matrix film. Blue sensitive on a clear base. Maybe too expensive for your application but I thought I'd throw it out there.

Very good suggestion, but some information lacking.

This film is unhardened, and so requires a tanning developer.

It is very very slow, on the order of a slow enlarging or fast contact paper speed.

That said, it is a good choice and the J&C material should do the trick if those above comments of mine don't offset any usefulness.

PE

 

[Mehmet Kismet]

Hi,

You could check also BERGGER BPFB-18 film.

Best
Mehmet Kismet