Heck, everybody has a roll of duct tape laying around. Cost is zero.
Seriously, a layer, maybe 1/2 inch by whatever length, with the glue side out to cover the cable, and another layer, glue side in to attach to the good part of the wrapper at each end of the blowout, and you're in business.
Duct tape/Gaffer tape is the last thing youn should use unless it's all you have. The number of restorations I do where I have to spend time removing the residues, it's awful stuff, designed for a day ot twos use.
On the 4x5 Linhof and the Rollei, there isn't enough clearance between the cable release socket and the lensboard to screw in the slave piston assembly. On 35mm SLRs, I use mirror lockup and the self timer instead.
The 6 or so feet of small dia. tubing between the squeeze bulb and the piston screwed into the shutter gives very effective isolation.
Duct tape/Gaffer tape is the last thing youn should use unless it's all you have. The number of restorations I do where I have to spend time removing the residues, it's awful stuff, designed for a day ot twos use.
I'm sure you're referring to the Harley and other 45 degree single crankpin twins. A proper v-twin, such as the 90 degree Ducati (aptly named) has very good mechanical balance, abeit masked by the lopsided power strokes.
On the 4x5 Linhof and the Rollei, there isn't enough clearance between the cable release socket and the lensboard to screw in the slave piston assembly.
In the 60's or so a pneumatic tube release kit was on the market which got a short cable intermediary to be installed between the pneumatic cylinder and the shutter.
The problem with all these kits is that the rubber bulbs have disintegrated by now...
Heat shrink tubing will work.. I did the same thing on my fraying cable 10 years ago. Jus get the heavier thickness tubes not the cheap Radio Shack thin stuff.
I had in mind the Mouse That Roared but I'm not sure.
The film had a Russian submarine crew trying to keep the residents of a small town in their houses so they could work on the vessel.