Blank developed negatives from my Hasselblad 500C recent purchase

BradS · Oct 24, 2010

Yes, You should definitely be able to see light - even through a shutter that is running at 1/250 second....or, even faster. Don't you have a 35mm SLR ? open the back and try it for yourself....

Q.G. · Oct 25, 2010

It is the lens, Kaie.

Perhaps you can arrange to have the lens replaced, or have it fixed at the seller's expense.

$300 wasn't much to pay for a complete kit. But if you add the expense of having the lens repaired, the back probably needing work too... And who knows what fun the body still holds in store.
I think i would return it. There are plenty of fish in the sea, that sort of thing.

I wouldn't exchange it for a Bronica though. Why would anyone want to do that?

polka · Oct 25, 2010

"It's the lens" : maybe - maybe not.

When you fire, this should happen in rapid succession :

1/ On the lens
a/ the shutter closes
b/ the diaphragm is preset

2/ On the body
a/ the miror goes up
b/ the rear flap opens

3/ On the lens
a/ the shutter opens
b/ after exposure time the shutter closes

What may be the issue with your cam is that the second step is too much delayed for the faster speeds, so that the rear flap is still closed when on the lens the shutter has already opened and closed.

You may return it, but you may also be fine if you only have the whole thing (body+lens+back) CLAded. Ask a specialist about the possible cause of this malfunction and probable cost of repair...

Paul

Athiril · Oct 25, 2010

maarten m said:
"in the black of night" won't do, katie, i hope you know that.
use at least like a black garbage-bag that you seal around the wrists,
and then again only in a pitch black room if you do.

You can change slow film, especially slow film with crap reciprocity in simply very dark conditions without fogging

Athiril · Oct 25, 2010

Katie said:
So at all apertures I cannot see any light at all with shutter speeds faster than 1/15. Should I be able to detect light from an open back through the lens at 1/30 and faster? I don't know what the human eye can see as far as speed... But this would explain my blank negatives, because I was shooting faster than 1/30 on the whole roll(s).

Yes, I can see 1/400th on my RB lenses, you should at least flower or ninja-star shape pattern in the shape of the leaf shutter at higher speeds, your lens is faulty, don't use it on the camera anymore unless you get it fixed, I had an RB lens (65mm C) that all the speedss above 1/15th were 1/15th, and I went to mirror return accidentally during a exposue at like 1/8th, right in the middle of it (normally this closes the shutter) but it destroyed the body as it jammed the lens on the body and the mirror stuck halfway.

Katie · Oct 25, 2010

I have been changing Ilford Delta 100 film in my bathroom, which is VERY dark with no problems. If needed, I will block the door crack; but honestly it will get no darker in there. I cannot even see where the door is! I know if sounds make-shift (and it is), but I assure you that it is very dark. I live in the middle of nowhere - no city lights, no outside lights, even. It can't get much darker here.

So I am going into town today - guess I'll take the camera and run by Precision Camera and check with the repair department. I say exchange it for a Bronica SQ because it would be in about the same price range - but functioning. Like I said, this setup was only $300. I will have it fixed if it's under $150. OR, if it's the lens, I would consider just buying a new one.

I have another camera that I could check the lens with, yes, but thought I would ask here first. guess I should do my own investigation as well.

Paul - thanks for the steps. I will mention that it could be the lens or step two that you mention. The website says that they specialize in repairing older Hasselblad, Leica, ect... and have as much spare parts around as possible, but they don't guarantee it. I shall see.

polka · Oct 25, 2010

Good luck Katie ; maybe it needs only a CLA (cleaning, lubrification, adjustment) which would be advisable anyway.

And about dark if you see nothing even after a few minutes accoutumance, it is indeed dark enough, but buy yourself a changing bag (preferably the big one) it is much more comfortable and suited not only for film developping but also for all other kinds of film manipulations. For me, I feel a little claustrophobic in complete dark

Paul

maarten m · Oct 25, 2010

good luck with the proceedings, katie!
i hope you'll get it working for a reasonable price.

maarten.

Q.G. · Oct 25, 2010

Katie said:
Paul - thanks for the steps. I will mention that it could be the lens or step two that you mention.

A simple test.
Set the lens to any of the fast speeds you say you can't see the shutter opening at, say 1/125.
Take the magazine off.
Press the prerelease.
Point the thing to the sky or a bright lamp.
Look through the rear of the camera.
Press the shutter.

If you don't see anything, no shutter opening and closing, no flash of light: it's the lens.

ChrisJarisch · Oct 25, 2010

I say keep your Hasselblad setup, which was pretty much a steal at $300, and just get the part you need (the back??? the lens???) from KEH... They have excellent prices. I buy most of my Hass. stuff from them rated either bargain or ugly- and have yet to have a problem. That's just my $00.02, tho... I LOVE my Hasselblad

And, I know you're not happy about buying a non-working camera, but I still think it's a good deal, for the price you paid for it. If you'll sink a few more $$$ into it, I think you'll find you have an excellent system...

Francis in VT · Oct 25, 2010

Blank film !

Katie;
I have been following this thread and to the best of me I don't think anyone has mentioned the following.
I bring this up because the slow shutter speeds were mentioned
When you test fire the camera do you press and hold the shutter release or do you release it immediately? If you release it immediately the rear curtains will close before the lens shutter opens and closes.
There is a switch around the shutter release that can be engaged whenever slow speeds are used.

Francis in VT

Q.G. · Oct 25, 2010

Good thinking.
But not keeping your finger on the button will indeed make the rear shutter slam shut (not before the lens shutter opens, but possibly before the lens shutter has closed again), but not fast enough to beat the lens shutter to it.
And it would not explain why at slow speeds the shutter can be seen to do its job, but not at faster speeds.

Katie · Oct 25, 2010

Thank you Francis ... I ran across a thread that mentioned that. It is quite the opposite, though, as my FAST speeds weren't working and not the slow speeds. I read (and realized through my own testing) that if you release the shutter too quickly that the rear shutter would close before the lens shutter. QG is right.

I dropped it off for a cleaning and diagnosis. Chris, the technician agreed with you and told me that I got a great price for the setup and that even if I had to get a new lens, if I could some something for the original one (parts maybe?) that it would all come out okay. SO - I have left the body (which he said was in GREAT shape), the back, and the lens for a cleaning. They are doing some testing on the lens and will let me know if perhaps it is just gummed up from non use over the last 20 years (which would be GREAT!) or if I indeed need a new lens.

Speaking of lens - he grabbed one to test that happened to be for sale (and it worked at all shutter speeds on the body). It's the 50 ... but he also has the 120 macro. If you had to replace your 80; which one would you go for? I am torn because while I love a long length portrait lens, I totally dig the more wide angle environmental portrait as well. Is one optically superior over the other? Whats the price difference? (I WILL be searching, but just thought I would ask while I'm jabbering on).

Athiril · Oct 25, 2010

I'd feel 120mm short for portraits, I use 180mm for that on my RB67

Q.G. · Oct 25, 2010

I disagree. The 120 mm is great for portraits.
The 50 mm however is not. Not even for environmental portraits: too wide. The 60 mm and 80 mm lenses are much better for that.

The performance of the 120 mm is indeed (much) better than that of the 50 mm (which is not bad at all. Nothing to worry about - but you asked).
Which is reflected in the amounts of money you have to pay for each: the 120 mm will be 2x upto 3x more expensive.

If i had to choose, the 120 mm.

But just my opinion. YMMV, and all that.

Katie · Oct 25, 2010

How wide does each go? I am currently shooting available light and usually pretty wide open. I like the thought of a macro, too... So used, what do you think the 120 would fetch? In good condition of course.

Q.G. · Oct 25, 2010

The 50 mm, 120 mm and 150 mm are all f/4 lenses (though the C version of the 120 mm is only f/5.6).

There is a wide range of 120 mm lenses available: C "chrome", C black, CF, CFi, CFE (a few CB even in some parts of the world). Prices depend on condition too.
Assuming decent, useable condition, they will range (approximately - with a bit of patience you will always be able to find lenses that are way outside of this range, on either side) from about US$400 for a C lens to US$ 1400 - US$ 2000 for a CFE version. A CF version will set you back about US$ 800.

Katie · Oct 27, 2010

Well, it was the lens.

Seems to be about a $400 fix with labor, so that is out. I'll be going by to pick it up and checking out the few used lenses they have for sale there - a 50, 150, and 120 makro CF. He says they had it listed at $800 when it was a rental, so it would be lower than that. I will check out the 150, too. And I guess look at 80's on the bay.

jeffreyg · Oct 27, 2010

For macro you could consider extension tubes that should be pretty reasonable used. They can be used individually or stacked. There is an exposure factor depending on the length of the tubes and the lens that is mounted on them but there are charts that give that information. A 50FLE lens can get pretty close on it's own but not necessarily in the macro range you may be looking for. I have used extension tubes with the 50FLE, 80,150 and 250 and they work fine.

http://jeffreyglasser.com/

maarten m · Oct 27, 2010

sad to hear about the lens. $400 to repair seems a lot though.
get yourself the 150 and look for extension tube(s).
it's a great lens.

maarten.

Katie · Oct 27, 2010

Will do. The nice man that sold it to me will give me $100 towards a new lens to replace the broken one.

Athiril · Oct 27, 2010

You can find someone to repair it cheaper than that for that kind of problem I would think..

Q.G. · Oct 27, 2010

I don't know about that.
Don't waste an opportunity by chasing rainbows. Take the $100 and find another lens.

Sirius Glass · Oct 27, 2010

Katie said:
And I guess look at 80's on the bay.

Check out KEH.com. Better prices, and a great return policy. I have bought several Hasselblad lenses from them.

Steve

John_Nikon_F · Oct 27, 2010

Sirius Glass said:
Check out KEH.com. Better prices, and a great return policy. I have bought several Hasselblad lenses from them.

Steve

^^^^^^ This. KEH is where I'd go.

-J

Blank developed negatives from my Hasselblad 500C recent purchase

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