For as long as I can remember I have always torn the backing off when I get to the end. The film end part shows a fractional inch of the tape that is at the end but it has no stickiness beyond the film end.@What About Bob, I was wondering, could the problem be related to the 120 film/backing paper tape?
Do you tear the film from the backing paper or cut the film leaving the tape attached to the backing paper?
Or am I barking up the wrong tree???
If you're using a black plastic tank, check for abrasion marks around the inside of the tank, lid, and center column. Maybe something is rubbing and abrading the plastic somewhere.
07 Jan 2024
What About Bob:
I would suggest Photographer's Formulary for photo chemicals. They are located in Montana and also cater to B&W photography and Alternate Processes chemistry. Their selection of chemistry is vast, and one can purchase in wide variety of quantities.
Regards,
Darwin
As they say there is always a first time for everything. This is what I witnessed while pouring my developer back into its graduate after developing. Anybody have an idea what those black specks are all about?
I mixed up some D23 four days ago. The D23 looked fine before it entered the tank. I shot a roll of Kentmere 100 in 120 format for the first time today. The film is now being hung to dry. I will not know if the specks could have done any harm. The exposures look good, at least.
There wasn't an entry at the MDC for Kentmere using D23 so I used the D76 times, like I did in the last session with the FP4 plus, and gave a 9 minute developing time instead of 11.5 because I exposed Kentmere at 50.
Interesting thing is I recently bought an AP compact tank but I haven't used it yet. I have always been a stainless steel user. I have never used a plastic tank and reel before. Kind of wish I had a junked roll of film to test it out with but I don't. Don't want to waste a roll either just for that purpose. I will just have to take it slow.
When I start to use the AP tank I will keep aware for the things that you have mentioned. I'm taking it that plastic tanks can show signs of scuffing over time?
That clear tiny section I mentioned that was on the flower pot looks like something that might have been on the flower part. I will go back to the greenhouse and check back with the pot.
No, I wasn't implying that plastic tanks have scuffing issues, it's just that there seems to be no other obvious explanation. When the usual explanations don't apply, then start looking at the unusual. If your film looks good, it seems to indicate the film and processing chemicals are O.K., so something weird is definitely going on.
Some stainless steel tanks have a black plastic light baffle on the underside of the lid. Maybe something is deteriorating there. If your tank lid has one of those plastic baffles, then try pouring some water through the lid into a jar, and see if there are any black specs.
In my area, this sort of thing usually results from high flying eagles or hawks.
Yeah it's a plastic/rubber material, connected by 5 nubbies under the lid. I ran some water through the lid and into a graduate. I did this many times and at different temperatures and the water came back clear. I also did a 5 minute fake processing run with agitation and then a dump into a graduate. Water came back clear. I did this three times.
It's a real head-scratcher, this one. I've go no other ideas at the moment.
I suspect, it's silver!
It's conceivable. Silver tends to clump, too, and maybe in a solvent developer like D23 this sort of thing is exacerbated.
I've suggested close examination of the particles before, in order to trace the issue, and I stand by that suggestion.
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