Big C shutter unresponsive when activated.

[Jack Savage]

Hi again!

So far my Retina repair is going great. The last issue remains. Here's what's going on - anyone got some feedback?

I can load my film & the film advances. The wind at the bottom of my Retina is fully functional. The dial at the top which gives me the read-out of how many shots I've taken works - I can go from 0-35 shots now.

When I push the button near the wind at the bottom of the camera body, it works.

When I go to push the button at the top of the camera, to take a photo, the button near the lens pushes on the lens part, but, the shutter does not take a photo. Upon further inspection, I "snapped" a few photos and looked at my camera when I did it, without the lens on; and I noticed, there are a few thin, black metal strips inside the lens part when the lens is not on the camera, and these black strips do not move. They're stuck closed & they won't open - however, the film is moving. I've put the camera down until I get further information - don't wanna mess anything up anymore than it is.

There is a little silver plunge next to my lens, and when I push the button to take a photo, it activates this little silver plunge, which then, moves, and it taps onto my lens part, and then, after a buzzing noise & a small click, it goes back up again - lasting only maybe less than 3 mila-seconds. I guess that's what activates those blades, but they won't budge.

What should I do, and what kinds of products can I use? Should I actively seek professional help at this point, or should I look into getting a spare part?

Thanks in advance.

 

[elekm]

Are you making these repairs yourself?

There is a small geared wheel that must slightly pretension a rotating geared rack in the shutter. When you crank the film advance, it then retensions the shutter. So that when you press the release on top of the camera, it fires the shutter.

However, there also are some adjustments to make regarding the post with a spring under it that sits under the shutter release.

If you haven't removed the shutter from the body, don't. Same goes for the top deck.

You probably should remove the face of the shutter entirely and flush the shutter with a combination of lighter fluid mixed with a small amount of powdered graphite (available at auto stores). Remove all lens elements before you do this.

After you flush the shutter, ensure that the remaining lighter fluid is gone or allowed to evaporate. Blow out the shutter with some compressed air with quick spurts of air. And clean the shutter blades (front and rear). Open the aperture to its widest setting.

Reseat all of the parts and reassemble. Ensure the interior of the shutter is completely dry and free of any debris before reassembling.

 

[Jack Savage]

Eek! Well, that answers that question! So far the only thing I've fixed was my film loader; it was stuck really badly, but in all honesty, I don't think I knew how to work it, not so much that the camera was "broke".

That said, I'm a complete novice and this seems complicated to me. I do know I'd do more harm than good, after reading that! Maybe after some more time & experience, I can look into my own repairs; but for now I think I'll bring my lovely one into the shop here in town, I know a man who can fix this for me and he's a dear.

I'm gonna store this information away for a rainy day -- you know, after I know what I'm doing better!

Thank you so so much!

 

[mgb74]

Useful info at http://retinarescue.com/kodakretinarepair.html

 

[Jack Savage]

Useful info at http://retinarescue.com/kodakretinarepair.html

Oh, fantastic! Bookmarking this so once I become slightly more familiar with the body, I'll have this under my belt -- just in case!

 

[BrianShaw]

Should I actively seek professional help at this point...

Yes, most definitely. If you have not done camera/shutter repair before this is NOT the one you want to start on.

 

[MattKing]

Yes, most definitely. If you have not done camera/shutter repair before this is NOT the one you want to start on.

+1

 

[E. von Hoegh]

"Should I actively seek professional help at this point,"

Yes. To be very blunt, you should have sought it before ever taking a screwdriver to that camera.

 

[Jack Savage]

Oh goodness, I've not touched the shutter at all - do I trust myself to fix something like this right now with my luck?! heeheeheehee! No fear about that!

I've only fixed the back of the camera so far, it was having a hard time opening up to get the film in. Dad's old trick of rubbing a dry, brand-new, un-used bar of unscented Ivory Soap on the door worked, (it opens now AND I found out how to load film for the first try! 3 tries and I'm good.) After the soap trick, I then rubbed down the hinge with some soft Kleenex tissue.

.....but......That shutter isn't something I'd touch. LOL!

I was gonna try to get in to our repair shop today, but had an emergency come up with our kitties getting stuck behind the washer - ugh! -- kitty is fine and I think she did it to be spiteful, she seems to have enjoyed herself back there! -- so tomorrow the Big C's going in - I hope.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) is right and his response is a good direction for someone with a bit of experience doing repairs. Sometimes when winding, the gears inside the cameras, or outside next to the shutter will slip out. if you rack out the focus to the closest focus setting you will be able to see the teeth where the geared wheel rests on. If you remove one of the screws that hold the assembly down, and loosen the other(this is a tight one by the lid), you can decouple the shutter from the winder lever assembly, clean the shutter, and realign the gears. When the gears are not aligned correctly, winding may stop too soon and not cock the shutter, or it may go forward too much and have the lever not return. Never put force on these cameras as you can easily strip the teeth off the cocking rack of other gears making it costly to repair. Microtools sells the cocking rack for $25usd. You can check your cocking rack by removing the top plate too(really easy to do as well, just a few screws). access to the shutter is super easy, as the cameras were designed to swap front elements, there is a red indicator you can turn to and remove the lens.

 

[sangetsu]

Another problem with the Retina is that the shutter rod can stick a bit, and not fully come up when cocking the camera. The rod can get sticky due to lack of lubrication as well as corrosion. If the back door was gummy enough not to open, you have to assume that some of the internal parts may be in the same shape.