Best non ttl flash for a canon AE1?
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Vivitar 283.
It can be used in many cameras.
It can be used in many cameras.
I have a Canon 199A Speedlite for my AE-1. Think it cost me $30 USD. Does everything asked of it. I even use it on my Nikons (in manual) when needed.
I strongly recommend a Metz "potato masher" style flash like the 45 CT-4.
These have fallen out of fashion, especially as people got wedded to their camera's TTL systems. As a result, these flashes can be a bargain.
The advantages:
- powerful flash
- lots of manual control
- very accurate Automatic (thyristor) mode with selectable f/stops, makes it simple to use with any camera
- easy to adjust your camera to do daylight fill
- tilt and rotate the head for bounce flash, still with good automatic metering
- some models have front-fill flash plus the main head
- gets the flash up and away from the lens, and negates the need for a separate flash bracket and cable
I can't over emphasize the accuracy of these flashes. I consistently get the best flash exposures I've ever had, even compared to TTL and iTTL.
A couple of things to watch for:
- Make sure you get your Metz with the AA battery insert. That makes batteries a no-brainer.
- Check the maximum voltage your camera can take on the flash sync. The early Metz flashes (CT-1?) had a high trigger voltage. I believe Metz has an FAQ about trigger voltages on their website.
These have fallen out of fashion, especially as people got wedded to their camera's TTL systems. As a result, these flashes can be a bargain.
The advantages:
- powerful flash
- lots of manual control
- very accurate Automatic (thyristor) mode with selectable f/stops, makes it simple to use with any camera
- easy to adjust your camera to do daylight fill
- tilt and rotate the head for bounce flash, still with good automatic metering
- some models have front-fill flash plus the main head
- gets the flash up and away from the lens, and negates the need for a separate flash bracket and cable
I can't over emphasize the accuracy of these flashes. I consistently get the best flash exposures I've ever had, even compared to TTL and iTTL.
A couple of things to watch for:
- Make sure you get your Metz with the AA battery insert. That makes batteries a no-brainer.
- Check the maximum voltage your camera can take on the flash sync. The early Metz flashes (CT-1?) had a high trigger voltage. I believe Metz has an FAQ about trigger voltages on their website.
The Nikon SB-28 not only works on all Nikon film cameras, it works in non-TTL mode on any camera from view camera to TLR to Minox.
http://speedlights.net/2010/02/02/strobist-nikon-sb-28/
http://speedlights.net/2010/02/02/strobist-nikon-sb-28/
I think you need to say what you want. i.e. whether you want a tilt head for bouncing flash and whether you want auto exposure (measures bounced light coming back from the subject) and whether you want fine control of power output. And also what focal lengths you need it to cover. The longer the more power you'll probably need.
If you want something small then have a look at a sunpak PF20XD. This doesn't tilt and only has GN 20 but its small and light and has fine control of power output for fill lighting. And it has auto exposure. Fairly basic but if thats all you need then worth considering.
If you want something small then have a look at a sunpak PF20XD. This doesn't tilt and only has GN 20 but its small and light and has fine control of power output for fill lighting. And it has auto exposure. Fairly basic but if thats all you need then worth considering.
2nd in favor of an sb 28, as a fantastic flash for any camera unless you have a TTL EOS Canon.
Many manual and Auto modes with bounce and built in reflector.
Works down to 20mm and up to 85 with built in focal length adjustment.
Many manual and Auto modes with bounce and built in reflector.
Works down to 20mm and up to 85 with built in focal length adjustment.
And another endorsement for the Vivitar 283.
My reasoning is that it's a bit more compact for NOT having the built in zoom head/filter adapter and the ability
to use the VP-1 and other accessories that the 285 also uses. They both have the same GN.
If you're looking for something to use on the camera like the 155 or 199 they do set sync speed and aperture.
My reasoning is that it's a bit more compact for NOT having the built in zoom head/filter adapter and the ability
to use the VP-1 and other accessories that the 285 also uses. They both have the same GN.
If you're looking for something to use on the camera like the 155 or 199 they do set sync speed and aperture.
Here is another vote for the Vivitar 283. It has been my workhouse for decades.
However, now that the 283 is no longer manufactured and I am down to only 3 working units out of 8, I have decided to try the Yongnuo YN 560 IV as a replacement.
Yonguo YN 560 IV by Narsuitus, on FlickrDoes the Youngnuo support A mode? and if it does how many choices of f/stop? I think this is important convenience to use on an old non ttl camera.
Either the original ones designated for the A-family. Or any other multiple auto-aperture flash.
Ar least over here I find such in the rummage box in all tastes.
Later models even got several manual-settings. And even non-original flashes may have A-type communication (as basic as it is).
In any case nom need to buy something new.
Ar least over here I find such in the rummage box in all tastes.
Later models even got several manual-settings. And even non-original flashes may have A-type communication (as basic as it is).
In any case nom need to buy something new.
Hi Chan,
No, the Yongnuo YN 560 IV is strictly manual exposure. It does not have automatic exposure control modes.
Most dedicated flash units have automatic exposure control. The Vivitar 283 was not a dedicated flash unit but it had automatic exposure control modes. These modes rely on changing the duration of the flash output to control the exposure. At the full power setting, the flash duration could be longer than 1/1,000th second. At the lowest power settings, the flash duration could be as short as 1/20,000th second.
I never relied on the Vivitar's automatic exposure modes because the portrait film I use has problems with reciprocity failure at the low power/short flash duration settings. Therefore, I primarily shoot only at full power and used the flash guideline number and/or a handheld flash meter to determine the correct exposure.
The Vivitar 285 (not one of the newer crappy ones made in China) is a workhorse. And the Auto modes on it are quite accurate.
I used Kodak Vericolor II, Kodak Vericolor III and then Kodak Portra 160 with my Metz flash which has 11 f/stops auto mode. I never have problem.
Many years ago, when I was doing a lot of close-up and macro work for a medical college, I ran into reciprocity problems using short duration flash output with Fuji and Kodak 35mm and medium format color print and color slide films. Exposure compensation and/or color filter compensation was needed for flash durations shorter than 1/10,000 second.
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