Best Nikon F2 (non-ai) compatible lenses?

[Arg6442]

Hello,

I am currently using a Nikon F2 with a DP-1 finder. My main lens has always been the S.C auto 50mm 1.4. Due to the fact that I shoot fairly slow films (FP4 @ ISO64), I cant help but feel like I’m missing resolution on my 8x10 and 11x14 prints from shots that are close to wide open. I’m wondering which lenses (either nikkor or 3rd party) will give me the best resolution possible.

Thanks!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hello,

I am currently using a Nikon F2 with a DP-1 finder. My main lens has always been the S.C auto 50mm 1.4. Due to the fact that I shoot fairly slow films (FP4 @ ISO64), I cant help but feel like I’m missing resolution on my 8x10 and 11x14 prints from shots that are close to wide open. I’m wondering which lenses (either nikkor or 3rd party) will give me the best resolution possible.

Thanks!

the Nikkor50mm f/1.8 E-series lenses have an excellent reputation for sharpness and resolution and they are cheap!

 

[pthornto]

The series E 50mm 1.8 is great but it lacks the bunny nears needed to couple to the F2 DP-1. I use a 50mm F2 nikkor and it is great. Mine is non-AI with AI cosmetics and I think any of the AI 50mm would be equally great.

Paul

 

[MattKing]

Hello,

I am currently using a Nikon F2 with a DP-1 finder. My main lens has always been the S.C auto 50mm 1.4. Due to the fact that I shoot fairly slow films (FP4 @ ISO64), I cant help but feel like I’m missing resolution on my 8x10 and 11x14 prints from shots that are close to wide open. I’m wondering which lenses (either nikkor or 3rd party) will give me the best resolution possible.

Thanks!

Are you using the camera handheld, or are you using it on a good tripod?
If handheld, a new lens isn't the solution to your problem .

 

[BradS]

the Nikkor50mm f/1.8 E-series lenses have an excellent reputation for sharpness and resolution and they are cheap!

The E series lenses are some of the very few Nikkor lenses that are particularly unsuited to the DP-1 finder. They don't have bunny ears.

 

[chip j]

50mm 2.0 Nikkor H non-AI

 

[jimjm]

Agreed on the 50/2.0 pre-AI version. Also, the older 50/1.8 Ai and AIS (non-compact versions) are good.

The 50/1.4 tends to get better as it's stopped-down.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Well, the best low-light Nikon lens you could put on your F2 is the expensive 58/1.2 Noct-Nikkor. Wide open, it has superior resolution and fewer aberrations out to the edges of the frame than any other Nikon lens, so at f/1.4 or f/1.8 it might perform to your satisfaction.

However, I don't think that's the right path to follow. As Matt writes:

Are you using the camera handheld, or are you using it on a good tripod?
If handheld, a new lens isn't the solution to your problem .

For the large prints you want, what are your subjects and how are you making your shots?

 

[Paul Howell]

Hello,

I am currently using a Nikon F2 with a DP-1 finder. My main lens has always been the S.C auto 50mm 1.4. Due to the fact that I shoot fairly slow films (FP4 @ ISO64), I cant help but feel like I’m missing resolution on my 8x10 and 11x14 prints from shots that are close to wide open. I’m wondering which lenses (either nikkor or 3rd party) will give me the best resolution possible.

Thanks!

What focal lengths? Limited to 50s?

 

[Arg6442]

Are you using the camera handheld, or are you using it on a good tripod?
If handheld, a new lens isn't the solution to your problem .

Hey!

I almost always shoot on a tripod (my tiltall, which is more than sturdy enough) as I shoot a lot of structural stuff. In fact I typically shoot 4x5 or 6x6, but I use the f2 on days I just don’t want to carry all that weight.

 

[Arg6442]

What focal lengths? Limited to 50s?

Wideangles and normals probably, I typically shoot structural photography.

 

[Arg6442]

Well, the best low-light Nikon lens you could put on your F2 is the expensive 58/1.2 Noct-Nikkor. Wide open, it has superior resolution and fewer aberrations out to the edges of the frame than any other Nikon lens, so at f/1.4 or f/1.8 it might perform to your satisfaction.

However, I don't think that's the right path to follow. As Matt writes:



For the large prints you want, what are your subjects and how are you making your shots?

Thanks for the reply!

I shoot mainly buildings on a sturdy tripod, but every once in a while if I’m walking around I’ll be handheld (this is also when I’m shooting wide open, obviously)z

 

[awty]

I dont have a problem with my f1.4 auto, but my 85, 105 and 135 are noticeably sharper and the 85 is pretty light and compact. Do you use a type E focus screen? Best thing I bought for my f2.

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

I second the suggestion of the 50mm f:1,8 Ai, the intermediate non-compact version with coupling prong. You will basically loose nothing in terms of maximum aperture and possibility of hand-helding the camera, but you will gain immensely in terms of sharpness. The non-compact version also has a quite deeply recessed front lens; you will very rarely feel the need to mount the hood.

As a wideangle, the 28mm f:2,8 Ai (or also Ais as I think they always kept the prong with this model) with floating lens is an outstanding optic which is very sharp at all focusing distances, and it is also quite affordable. I can't recommend it enough. As a side note, I have a not-so-well-kept unit that I bought in a rush before an important trip - it takes such wonderful pictures that I am constantly refraining from replacing it with another (better kept) unit, for fear of getting a worse lens due to production tolerances.

 

[narsuitus]

At distances less than infinity, the 55mm f/3.5 micro Nikkor is the sharpest normal focal length lens I use on my Nikon F2.

 

[Paul Howell]

Wideangles and normals probably, I typically shoot structural photography.

3rd party, I would consider any early Vivitar Series 1 l lens, they made a fast wide I think a 28 F2, and a 90 and 135 along with a zoom, the popular the 80 to 210 3.5,

 

[cooltouch]

I'm not familiar with FP4, but I shot a LOT of Kodachrome 64 back in the day, so I got real used to shooting with a slow emulsion. Thing is, if you're shooting outdoors in bright sun, you've got plenty of shutter speeds and aperture to work with. The good ol' Sunny f/16 rule states 1/60 @ f/16 for ISO 64 film. 1/60 is hand-holdable for normal focal lengths and wider, and f/16 usually provides quite a bit of depth of field.

Back when I was shooting a lot of Kodachrome, in addition to the 50/1/.4, I liked the 85/1.8, the 24/2.8, the 105/2.5, and the 180/2.8 ED. I also used a couple of zooms a lot: the Vivitar Series 1 28-90/2.8-3.5 and the Tamron SP 60-300/3.8-5.4. I even had a Sigma 600/8 mirror I used quite a bit. Bright sun, I was still able to shoot at 1/250, so I would usually use a monopod with it.

 

[cwfritz]

". . . I use the f2 on days I just don’t want to carry all that weight."

As a fellow F2 schlepper, I love that line.

 

[Tel]

At distances less than infinity, the 55mm f/3.5 micro Nikkor is the sharpest normal focal length lens I use on my Nikon F2.

+1: I have an assortment of Nikkors but the one that lives on my F2 is the 55mm micro.

 

[xkaes]

I'd suggest you run an easy, simple test for resolution with the camera on your tripod. Place a newspaper in the center of the viewfinder, and another in a corner of the viewfinder -- at 10', 20' (doesn't matter, but make sure they are the same distance). Makes exposures at each f-stop and compare the prints. That will show you what the lens can do -- or possibly reveal a different problem.

Just about every Independent Lens Manufacturers' normal lenses -- there aren't many (Vivitar, Kalimar, etc.) -- are designed for bargain-basement camera sales.

Lenses are almost always "softer" when wide open, and especially if they are "fast", but since you use a tripod, you have several options -- depending on your test results:

Use the tripod when you want max sharpness -- stopped down according to your test results
Use a faster film -- and learn to love grain (like me)
Find a sharper lens -- good luck

 

[FriedLouisStudio]

FYI, I noticed that UsedPhotoPro has a pile of non-AI Nikkors for sale at the moment. Mega-classics like the 50/2, 50/1.4, 28/3.5, 55/3.5 Micro, 135/2.8, etc., most at very attractive prices. (I've bought two "Good" lenses from them recently... and I'd rate them Excellent.)

Anyway, if anyone's in the market, check this out:

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[dynachrome]

Nikon's 50/1.4 lenses were improved over time. The S is lower in contrast because it isn't as well coated as the later ones. All models from the SC to the AIS have much improved coating. My favorite of the older design is the first version 'K' model. It has newer coating than the SC. The second version 'K' is a new design and is the same, optically, as the first AI model. The new design is sharper at or near wide open than the older ones. If you want the sharpest 50/1.4 for wide open shooting, don't limit yourself to pre-AI lenses. An AIS will have the latest improvements in the manual focus line. You also need to take sample variation into account if you plan to use the lens wide open a lot.