Best MF camera for a $1000?

[Odot]

Hey everyone, i would like to shoot portraits, primarily 6x6 but if the optics and camera are great, i would also settle for a different size. I will most likely use it outside, no studio work.

Theres probably more stuff i should mention but i cant think of shit. I like the Hassy 500cm, the image quality/optics are amazing, which is something to consider. Thanks.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Rolleiflex. No mirror blackout, which kills your connection to your subject with a Hassy. And no mirror slap, which is disturbing to any sane human being. And no mirror delay- you press the shutter button on a Rolleiflex and THE PHOTO HAPPENS. On a Hassy, you are always hoping nothing moved between hitting the button and the mirror and curtains getting out of the way and the shutter leaves closing down and then opening again.

As you will find, there are many opinions here. At the end of the day, most any camera mentioned here will give you great images. Get comfortable with a camera and then focus on how to get what you want from people when doing portraits.

 

[k.hendrik]

just because: Rolleiflex sl66se

 

[cramej]

Mamiya TLR with the 180. Any TLR would be fine, really. Loads of portraits have been shot with a TLR and 80mm lens.

Sometimes a WLF is hard to see outdoors if it's bright. Maybe something with an eye level finder option would be good....which is most of them. You can't go wrong with any of the big names - Mamiya (RB, RZ, C series, 645 and 645af), Hassy (V series), Rollei (Flex or Cord, SL, 6000 series), Pentax (645, 645n), Bronica (SQ series, GS series, ETR series). They all have pros and cons. All of them can be had for under $1k with body, lens, back and finder except maybe the Rollei 6000's.

 

[Alan9940]

I agree with Dan. And, the shutter release sound on a Rolleiflex won't scare the crap out of your subject!

 

[xya]

fujifilm ga645 or ga645zi. professional, autofocus and as easy as a point and shoot. amazing lenses.

 

[markjwyatt]

If you are shooting portraits outdoors, you may consider flash equipment also.

 

[removed account4]

hey odot

there is a keiv60 with a lens on ebay right on ebay right now for 145$ + shipping ( it has a cyrillic nameplate )
it is a great 6x6 camera. has a prism / slr and a breech mount so you can get all sorts of zebra striped biotar &c lenses that are mythical
if you get the 135 and the 180 you will be completely set for portrait photography. it is an old mechanical camera so you can use any flash you can get your hands on. you can also purchase a new ( well rebuilt ) kiev 60 with the ARAX name plate, stripped to the studs and reflocked, winding mechanism in tip top shape, has a mirror lock up as well ( that is what i have ) it costs no where near 1000$ and you can spend the $$ leftover on film and paper and a sturdy tripod !

have fun, and remember the best camera isn't necessarily the most expensive or ones the "professionals" use but the one you have with you and you feel comfortable with.

good luck !
john

 

[markjwyatt]

Not perfect for portraits, but quite workable, but the perfect roll film format and a perfect rangerfinder (just noticed it, and thought I would point it out, have not seen the actual camera):

Texas Leica
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/fs-fuji-gw690ii-rangefinder-camera.168172/

 

[MattKing]

For portraits, I really recommend having at least an option of an eye level viewfinder. If you restrict yourself to a waist level finder, there is a tendency to end up with a few too many photographs where the camera is looking up to the subject - definitely something that needs to be paid attention to.
Do you like to have the option of fill flash? If so, a leaf shutter or a leaf shutter option is good.
I've shot the majority of my portraits with a Mamiya C330 (TLR), a prism finder, and a 135mm lens.
But I've also used everything from a 35mm fixed lens rangefinder to an RB67.
When you are considering options, pay attention to the issue of what the closest focusing distance is for a particular lens. There are some lens and camera combinations (including some in the Hasselblad system) that won't let you take a tight head and shoulders portrait without an extension tube.
Here is me set up the way I like it for portraits:

 

[bdial]

"Best" is really subjective, and really depends on what's important to you. For example, light weight, interchangeable lenses or backs, reflex or rangefinder viewing?
Do you need to be able to change from B&W to color mid-roll? Or different speeds? Do you like really tight head-shot portraits? A WLF can be challenging if you need to follow movement, though that's learnable, but they are nice for candids or situations where you are interacting with your subject. With cameras like Rolleiflexes and Mamiyas you can use the fold-down "sports finder" to get an eye-level point of view when you need it.

As mentioned your budget will get you about anything on the market, though adding stuff like multiple lenses, backs, prisms etc. will quickly put you over that in some cases.

That I know of, I've never scared anyone with my Hasselblad, but you might if you're doing a head shot with a Rolleiflex because you'll be 6 inches from their face

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recommend a Hasselblad with a 45 degree prism such as the PME which has a TTL light meter.

 

[macfred]

I paid about 1000 EUR for my Rolleiflex 3.5F Planar (incl. CLA from a retired Dutch Rollei technican, a set of Rollei filters and a Rolleinar #1 for portrait work). I coudn't be more satisfied.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hey everyone, i would like to shoot portraits, primarily 6x6 but if the optics and camera are great, i would also settle for a different size. I will most likely use it outside, no studio work.

Theres probably more stuff i should mention but i cant think of shit. I like the Hassy 500cm, the image quality/optics are amazing, which is something to consider. Thanks.

Once you go Hasselblad you won't go back.

 

[mshchem]

Hasselblad, V series. If you want a great camera for less cash, a nice Mamiya TLR. Spend the money to get a nice example whatever you get.
I use, or have used, Hasselblad, Bronica SQ, ETR, Mamiya C330, Fuji 690 rangefinders. The least amount of electronics the better.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Once you go Hasselblad you won't go back.

+1

 

[mshchem]

Not perfect for portraits, but quite workable, but the perfect roll film format and a perfect rangerfinder (just noticed it, and thought I would point it out, have not seen the actual camera):

Texas Leica
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/fs-fuji-gw690ii-rangefinder-camera.168172/

I have three G690 series cameras, 8 exposure roll, huge negative, nothing to go wrong,
If you want a Texas sized "Texas Leica" here I am with my Fujica G617. Oh Yeah! (No rangefinder )

 

[John Koehrer]

For portraits, I really recommend having at least an option of an eye level viewfinder. If you restrict yourself to a waist level finder, there is a tendency to end up with a few too many photographs where the camera is looking up to the subject - definitely something that needs to be paid attention to.
View attachment 225597

"looking up to subject" aka "nostril shot"

 

[markjwyatt]

I would also suggest the Mamiya TLR system. This is what I have used in the past. The prism (or mirror) finder solves the eye level problem. Lenses all have leaf shutters, so flash sync is at all speeds. The Mamiya TLR is a great systems camera.

 

[DREW WILEY]

The Pentax 6x7 system is great for portraiture - good handling, great lenses, and fast lenses among them if you want shallow depth of field. The 165/2.8 is an excellent portrait lens. Sure, when that big mirror hits the top it will knock the socks off a giraffe on the other side of the world; but by then the exposure will have already been made. That's not an issue unless you're a spy. But if you want something more spontaneous, those Fuji "Texas Leicas" are wonderful. For a thousand bucks you could own both!

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Rolleiflex is good investment, but Jane Bown ditched it for Oly OM. And she is one of the best portraitists...

I never get used to TLR upside down and Mamya TLR with close up thing and porroprism was driving me nuts with parallax on portraits. It is awful for framing on close-up portraits. IMO.

I would try to get working Hasselblad. To me WYSIWYG is important for portraits.
I mean, all MF is more less good for getting MF quality. Even folders works for it. But parallax, it sucks with TLRs, folders and rangefinders.
Again it depends what kind of portraits. To have everything aligned as I see on focus screen, it is SLR only. IMO.

 

[markjwyatt]

I never get used to TLR upside down and Mamya TLR with close up thing and porroprism was driving me nuts with parallax on portraits. It is awful for framing on close-up portraits. IMO...

Pentaprism is much better than the porroprism (porroprism is inexpensive and lighter, plus you could get one with a CdS meter), just like an SLR except for parallax when very close. Never needed the paramender for portraits, only for still life. Even for weddings and ring shots I just used the parallax indicator in the viewfinder.

I do agree with the SLR comment in general, but not sure how critical it is for portraits. Maybe it depends on how you work.

 

[Ariston]

You can get an RB67, and a few lenses, and an eye-level finder, and a waist level finder, and extra backs, for $1,000. You may even be able to buy a backup RB67 body, if you do it right.

The lenses are unbeatable.

 

[mshchem]

You can get an RB67, and a few lenses, and an eye-level finder, and a waist level finder, and extra backs, for $1,000. You may even be able to buy a backup RB67 body, if you do it right.

The lenses are unbeatable.

RB and RZ are the best tripod mounted portrait system. Rotating back, no cropping to 4x5, 8x10, 16x20. No extension tubes required. I have two RZ67 II bodies. This stuff is very inexpensive if you are patient. Soft focus/razor sharp 180mm portrait lens. I still walk around with the excellent left hand grip, shoot hand held with the 110 f2.8. It's twice the size of a Hassleblad, about the size of a rural mailbox.

 

[Grim Tuesday]

I think it depends on how much OP cares about value, flexibility and absolute quality. I'd rule out rangefinders for portraits which really leaves only TLRs and

Best lens you can get under $1000 - Rolleiflex 3.5e late model or 3.5F. Probably $700 after CLA with Mark Hansen. Truly fantastic lens, but you have to commit to the focal length.

Best system you can get under $1000 - Hasselblad 500CM with 80 & 150. Probably $900 for a nominally working camera and those two lenses. Lots of room for growing the system with excellent lenses.

Best value you can get for under $1000 - Mamiya C Series TLR with prism, 65/105/180. Probably $500 for a working set. Bonus is you've maxed out the best lenses in the system so you will never want to spend any more.

If I had $1000 burning a hole in my pocket and was shopping for a medium format system, I'd probably go with the Mamiya TLR option and get a full set of lenses, a WLF and a prism. And then spend the other $500 on as many rolls of film as my freezer could hold.