Best Jobo equipment for 16x20 prints?

cluttered · Jun 24, 2015

I'm currently able to print up to about 11x14" prints at home, but can't go any larger than that due to space restrictions. So I'm toying with the idea of buying something like a Jobo CPP2 to print up to (probably) 16x20". If I was to do that, what hardware should I look for? For example, can I make do with a CPE2, or do I actually need a CPP2 plus lift? And which drums make sense for my goals?

Thanks.

middlecalf · Jun 24, 2015

I don't think a CPE2 is physically big enough to hold a 16+" inch tube. I use a cibachrome tube and use the roller base from my CPE2 to roll the tube in a long tray with heated water (if doing color).

Sirius Glass · Jun 24, 2015

You will need to use a CPP2 to turn the drums. I have two different drums, I will have to get back to you on the drum types, but one of them is the Jobo 3063 Expert Drum will handle prints up to 20"x24".

jamespierce · Jun 24, 2015

If you have room for a CPP2 then you have room for three tiered 16x20 trays... The jobo is ok for RC paper, not really suitable for Fibre, but even then one print at a time is pretty slow and time consuming... Another option is to consider a Nova Slot processor - very practical in small spaces. Again, if you can fit a CPP2 you can fit a 16x20 slot processor and a washer in the same space.

LJH · Jun 24, 2015

Either CPA or CPP with work. Stacked 2xxx tanks will hold 20" paper, while the 3063 tank will do 20x24".

With either machine, you should consider which motor is fitted. The later ones had better ones. Plenty written about this out there!

cluttered · Jun 24, 2015

jamespierce said:
If you have room for a CPP2 then you have room for three tiered 16x20 trays...

Not really; if I'm using large trays then I'm working in safelight conditions, but if I'm using a Jobo then it could be anywhere.

Your suggestion of a Nova Slot Processor is an interesting one, I'll look into that.

Dr Croubie · Jun 24, 2015

If you're just doing B+W, then there's no need for a processor, just grab the tanks. I regularly do paper (pinhole negs) in a drum, roll it around on the rollers for a few minutes, and only break out the CPE for doing E6 and C41.

Sirius Glass · Jun 24, 2015

cluttered said:
Not really; if I'm using large trays then I'm working in safelight conditions, but if I'm using a Jobo then it could be anywhere.

Your suggestion of a Nova Slot Processor is an interesting one, I'll look into that.

Mine is in the kitchen with lots of counter space and light. The lift empties into the sink so any chemicals that miss the return bottles goes right down the drain. That simplifies the rinse stages.

spijker · Jun 24, 2015

Why don't you try single tray processing? I only do a 16x20 inch print occasionally and did the last ones prints this way. It works well and reduces the risk of damaging the print while still wet. Read up on it in (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

cluttered · Jun 24, 2015

Some good suggestions in this thread, thanks! Especially Dr Croubie's of just using a tank without a processor. And I'll read up on single-tray processing as well.

RalphLambrecht · Jun 25, 2015

cluttered said:
I'm currently able to print up to about 11x14" prints at home, but can't go any larger than that due to space restrictions. So I'm toying with the idea of buying something like a Jobo CPP2 to print up to (probably) 16x20". If I was to do that, what hardware should I look for? For example, can I make do with a CPE2, or do I actually need a CPP2 plus lift? And which drums make sense for my goals?

Thanks.

Did not work for me;Iended up with stacked trays.

Mark_S · Jun 25, 2015

My darkroom handles (handled - since it is in the process of being moved) up to 11 x 14 comfortably, and I could do 16x20 with stacked trays. I process in a CPP2, so it was relatively easy to get a 3063 tube to handle 16 x 20 and 20 x 24.

It works, but I am not thrilled with the experience. I was using the tube to do the develop, stop, fix process, then I would take the print and move it to a try for washing. The biggest issue that I had was when I didn't wash out the tube well enough before the next print, resulting in fix hitting the paper before developer - which is bad .

I hope in the next darkroom to have sufficient room to use big trays.

Sirius Glass · Jun 25, 2015

Sirius Glass said:
You will need to use a CPP2 to turn the drums. I have two different drums, I will have to get back to you on the drum types, but one of them is the Jobo 3063 Expert Drum will handle prints up to 20"x24".

Jobo 3063 Expert Drum

Rotation 300ml
50mmx60mm/ 20"x24" 1
40mmx50mm/ 16"x20" 1
30mmx40mm/ 12"x16" 2
28mmx35mm/ 11"x14" 2

Jobo 2560 tank plus 2830 drum

Rotation 300ml [my estimate]
30mmx40mm/ 12"x16" 2
28mmx35mm/ 11"x14" 2

DREW WILEY · Jun 26, 2015

Are you contemplating color printing, black and white, or both? The problem with black and white fiber-based prints is that fiber-based papers (as opposed to RC) get soggy and risk collapsing in a large drum. But you don't need a fancy machine. There are simple drum rollers which work fine, or you could simply roll the drum back and forth on a flat surface, or inside a big tray like and inexpensive mortar tray. What is important is to have your chemicals at a stable correct temperature and have consistent repeatable agitation technique or rolling, which is a matter of practice. My gripe with Jobo drums per se is that they tend to fill and drain rather slowly due to a small opening. Cheaper drums are often better in this respect.

MattKing · Jun 26, 2015

The Cibachrome drums work really well for RC paper. Just be sure to get one for 16x20.

cluttered · Jun 26, 2015

DREW WILEY said:
Are you contemplating color printing, black and white, or both?

Just B&W printing.

I'm soon going to try some experiments with single-tray developing as well as just a manually-rolled tank to see how it goes. With both of these options, I imagine that I'll end up using a lot more water in an effort to avoid staining, but there's one way to find out...

MattKing · Jun 26, 2015

cluttered said:
Just B&W printing.

I'm soon going to try some experiments with single-tray developing as well as just a manually-rolled tank to see how it goes. With both of these options, I imagine that I'll end up using a lot more water in an effort to avoid staining, but there's one way to find out...

For black and white, my cibachrome tubes work great on a Beseler or Unicolour rotary base.

16x20 requires some care to ensure the tube stays where it belongs, but heavy duty rubber bands provide a practical solution.

KayGee14x17-ATL · Dec 9, 2024

If a Jobo or cibachrome tube is just that, a tube, why not cut your own PVC and slam it on a roller? Sure, the vented light proof end caps for pouring chemistry are nice. Caps are for keeping chemicals inside. For ULF there are no clips or brackets, just a roll shoved into a tube. Tube would need to be longer than the substrate and big enough so paper does not overlap obviously. Having these systems for processing out of the dark sounds like the biggest benefit to me. Would hand rolling and even flipping in middle of processing would be more than adequate to keep chemistry flowing and well mixed? Film brings other considerations, but Paper and Xray film can be handled under black light, so why not MacGyver?

Best Jobo equipment for 16x20 prints?

cluttered

middlecalf

Sirius Glass

jamespierce

LJH

cluttered

Dr Croubie

Sirius Glass

spijker

cluttered

RalphLambrecht

Mark_S

Sirius Glass

DREW WILEY

MattKing

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cluttered

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KayGee14x17-ATL

Best Jobo equipment for 16x20 prints?

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