Best from Acros 100 with what I have?

BrianPhotog · Sep 15, 2008

In a couple of days I'll receive a brick of 120 Acros 100 (for use in a 6x12 back out my CG). It's the first time I've tried this film and would appreciate any exposure & processing suggestions.

It's a tabular filmconfused so I assume that I shouldn't overexpose as I do with tri-x or panF.

At home I have a little Rodinal (hard to come by in Taipei), some DD-X, some T-Max developer, and a ton of HC-110.

Output will be traditional printing with scans only for web-use.

Thanks in advance!

nze · Sep 15, 2008

Just like to soup it in Rodinal 1+100 For 20 min with agitation first minute and then every 15 sec. this work great for printing. For scan only you may choose a quicker alternative. But these are easy to scan and full odf detail and information.

P C Headland · Sep 15, 2008

I expose it at 100 and develop it in Rodinal 1+100 as per the Massive Development Chart. Lovely results every time.

pentaxuser · Sep 15, 2008

If you want to save your Rodinal, then use DDX. Mine was 35mm so can't guarantee that 120 is the same but DDX and 9 mins using Ilford agitation gives very sharp prints and great contrast. My skies were amongst the best I have managed in 35mm film. This was a time I used and was based on U.K. light conditions but it was based on a recommendation I got on the Ilford Photo forum where a moderator had used 8.5 mins but based in more southern lattitudes much closer to L.A latitudes and much contrastier light conditions.

In Taipei or L.A. I think that 8.5 is probably nearer the correct time. Ilford doesn't give a time for Acros and DDX which is a pity as I thought it a great combination but the Massive Development Chart gives 9 mins for 35mm and 10 for 120 but as I say, I'd be tempted to scale this down for your latitudes unless it was particularly dull conditions.

pentaxuser

pentaxuser

DWThomas · Sep 15, 2008

I'm sure I've not yet plumbed all the subtleties, but lately I've been shooting 120 Acros 100 at ISO 80 and using HC110 "Dilution H" (1+63) for about nine minutes, four inversions each minute, for some respectable results.

DaveT

BrianPhotog · Sep 15, 2008

Great info and you guys have given me some good starting points. Thank you!

Iwagoshi · Sep 15, 2008

Brian, just one more that was not mentioned but, of course, recommended by Fuji; Fuji Microfine, 10 minutes. Also don't skimp on the wash, it takes a while to get out the magenta dye.

BrianPhotog · Sep 15, 2008

Iwagoshi said:
Brian, just one more that was not mentioned but, of course, recommended by Fuji; Fuji Microfine, 10 minutes. Also don't skimp on the wash, it takes a while to get out the magenta dye.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to Fuji chems in Taipei...Kodak and Ilford stuff is readily available and Rodinal can be had with a little effort (but only in over-priced smaller bottles). In a couple of months I'm heading back to L.A. to visit family, friends, and Freestyle, but they don't have Fuji chems listed on their website so I assume that they don't stock any in the store.

Iwagoshi · Sep 16, 2008

I ordered a batch from Dead Link Removed in Japan, got in less than two weeks. If you APUG-search for Megaperls you'll find that a number of us are customers.

Terry

hka · Sep 16, 2008

Don't forget the Xtol or Mytol developer for this film. Very nice combo too. Sharp en crispy and nice tonation over de whole Z-range.

BrianPhotog · Sep 16, 2008

Iwagoshi said:
I ordered a batch from Dead Link Removed in Japan, got in less than two weeks. If you APUG-search for Megaperls you'll find that a number of us are customers.

Terry

I'll take a look, Thanks! Being in Taipei I'd probably get it a little faster then that, too

BrianPhotog · Sep 16, 2008

hka said:
Don't forget the Xtol or Mytol developer for this film. Very nice combo too. Sharp en crispy and nice tonation over de whole Z-range.

I'm looking more toward one-shot developers for convenience sake

mrtoml · Sep 16, 2008

I shoot Acros at iso 80 and develop in Paterson Aculux 3 for 35mm and Ilford LC29 (1+29) in 120.

P C Headland · Sep 16, 2008

BrianPhotog said:
At home I have a little Rodinal (hard to come by in Taipei)...

You can make your own "Rodinal" with commonly available chemicals - paracetamol tablets, drain cleaner (sodium hydroxide), sodium sulphite and water. You can find the recipe here.

pcyco · Sep 16, 2008

hallo

acu fx-39 works great. expose at 64 and use the developing time for 100(from the sheet).
strong, sharp and good for printing.

analog greetings

thomas

Larry.Manuel · Sep 16, 2008

I have had great results with ACROS in Rodinal, and now prefer DD-X, exposing the ACROS at EI 200. You may have lots of light there, and find EI 100 to be handy enough. I use the times in digitaltruth.com's Massive Developing Chart. It's wise to test one film through the whole processing/scanning process to see if your exposure settings are suitable. Good luck, it's a superb film in 120 size.

PS: Ilford's method of re-using one liter of 1+4 diluted DD-X, and adding 10% to the time for each subsequent film works just fine for up to 5 films.

BrianPhotog · Sep 16, 2008

Larry.Manuel said:
PS: Ilford's method of re-using one liter of 1+4 diluted DD-X, and adding 10% to the time for each subsequent film works just fine for up to 5 films.

I didn't know that was possible with DD-X. I used to do it with LC-29 (there are re-use instructions on the bottle for time adjustments for re-using it twice at 1+19) but if I'm not mistaken (too lazy to look at the bottle now) DD-X is one use only?

BrianPhotog · Sep 16, 2008

mrtoml said:
I shoot Acros at iso 80 and develop in Paterson Aculux 3 for 35mm and Ilford LC29 (1+29) in 120.

I used to use LC-29 quite a bit, especially for PanF and HP5+ but switched to HC-110 a couple years ago. Besides being more economical (not a big deal) it, for me at least, gave me better accuance when streched out.

mrtoml · Sep 16, 2008

BrianPhotog said:
I used to use LC-29 quite a bit, especially for PanF and HP5+ but switched to HC-110 a couple years ago. Besides being more economical (not a big deal) it, for me at least, gave me better accuance when streched out.

Interesting. I thought that HC110 and LC29 were supposed to be pretty much the same. Obviously not.

BrianPhotog · Sep 16, 2008

mrtoml said:
Interesting. I thought that HC110 and LC29 were supposed to be pretty much the same. Obviously not.

Me, too...but when I do longer developments (i.e. LC29 @1+29 and HC-110 @1+64) I get some shadow area definition with HC-110 that I just don't get with LC-29.

Ilfotec HC is probably a closer comparison to HC-110, but I haven't made a comparison yet as the chems shop I frequent doesn't carry it.

Ian Grant · Sep 16, 2008

HC - High concentrate LC - Low concentrate. LC 29 is more like the stock solution you make up from Ilfotec HC or HC110, but it will be formulated for better keeping properties.

Ilfotec HC and Kodak HC110 are very similar, but they aren't the same.

Ian

BrianPhotog · Sep 21, 2008

I just put 3 rolls of Acros through the Crown Graphic (6x12 back) at Fu Long Beach, near Keelung, Taiwan. I think I'll start with DD-X for these 3 since it's going to expire soon. Next weekend I'll shoot a couple more rolls and soup them in something else.

Thanks for all the help, everyone!

weasel · Sep 22, 2008

I wrote out of turn. Look at this thread here, for my take on Acros in Thorntons Two Bath

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Best from Acros 100 with what I have?

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency