best film dev combo

severian

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I am mildly and temporarily unable to carry around my 8x10. You can read my tear jerking thread in The Lounge. My question is basic. What is the best film and developer combination to use with a Hasselblad. My definition of best is sharpest and tiniest grain. I know I can't match 8x10 film at a 16x20 or 20x24 print, but can I come close? I have 2 weeks to experiment befor I start travelling. I've used nothing but 8x10 since 1979. I seek your counsel and wisdom.
Severian, Autarch of Urth, Journeyman in the Society of the Seekers of Truth and Penitence aka Jack B
 

Ole

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Two weeks - that should be enough to get you about five hundred different answers, from three hundred different posters. Oh - and a new schisma in the Church of Rodinal, too...

For what it's worth, "sharpest" and "tiniest grain" are incommensurable. You can get one or the other, but not both.

My personal favorite is Ilford FP4+ in Ilfosol-S - not for ultimate sharpness or tiniest grain; just because it gives me negatives I like. Lately I've been using APX100, Ilford Delta 100 and Efke R25 in Ilfotec HC - because that's what I have. I prefer what comes out of the Ilfotec HC to what I get from Rodinal (I'm sure I'll get flamed for this! ).

I'm on my way to the darkroom now to make a few 12x16" prints from EFKE KB25 (35mm) developed in Neofin Blau. You can see grain with a good loupe, but not from "normal viewing distance". And the Neofin is not a fine-grain developer.
 

jim appleyard

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Best is what works for you. If you have had success in shooting 8x10, why not try that combo of film/dev in 120? Yes, you'll have a bit more grain from a 6x6 neg than an 8x10, but not enough to ruin a photo!

Besides, a camera is a box, it's the photographer who takes the photo.
 

Neal

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Dear Severian,

"...but can I come close?" No! :>) The good news is that a Hasselblad will feel like a p&s in comparison.

Enjoy your Travels.

Neal Wydra
 

Gerald Koch

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There is no single best combination, it depends on what sort of photography you want to do. You say you want the sharpest and tiniest grain. But if, for example, you were interested in night photography then fine grain developers result in a speed loss. I think you can see the problem. First you have to decide what you want to do. Then select a film/developer combination for that purpose. Only you can make this determination.
 

WRSchmalfuss

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Here comes something special! Take the ROLLEI IR 820/400 with "ISO 200", "without any IR filter", just as an regular B&W film, and process the film in ROLLEI RHS, dilution 1+7, 5 min. 20°C. The Rollei IR film has a resolution of 160 Lp/mm (!) You will be surprised about the fine grain, sharpness and excellent tonality.

Regards
 

michtothemax

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If your intended paper size is 20X24, I would go with Ilford or Kodak T grain
100 iso films in X-tol, D-76, or Microdol-X. I shoot 6X7 and love tx400 or
Plus-X in Rodinal, but I normally enlarge only to 8X10 or 11X14.

Regards.

Mitch
 

Stephanie Brim

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TMAX 100 in Rodinal is great. Pan-F in Rodinal is great. HP5 in Rodinal is great, but not fine grain.

I really like Rodinal.
 

JLP

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Suggestion number 499 Everything is good in a Hassy..
Seriously, Acros in one of the Pyrocat versions or in Xtol is tough to beat.
No reciprocity or almost no, in case you will be doing some low light shooting.

jan
 

dynachrome

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If you are using a tripod then a nice combination is Ilford Pan F+ at an EI of 50 developed in Ilford Perceptol or Kodak Microdol-X 1:3. This combination will give full film speed, very tight and fine grain and decent contrast control. For a little more speed I would recommend Fuji ACROS at an EI of 100 developed in undiluted Fuji Microfine. Microfine is available from the unicircuits.com website (Megaperls Webshop). Another good combination is Kodak TMX at an EI of 100 developed in undiluted Ilford Microphen. If you need more speed and still want to keep contrast under control then Ilford Delta 400 at an EI of 400 developed in undiluted Ilford Microphen is a good choice. Fuji Neopan 400 in D-76/ID-11 1:1 is also very nice.
 

Roger Hicks

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JLP said:
Suggestion number 499 Everything is good in a Hassy..

jan
Click to expand...

#500 ...Oh, no it isn't...

#501 ...Oh, yes it is...

#502 ...Oh, no it isn't...

Ole's original post is right on. There's a lot more alchemy in B+W than many people are willing to admit. What works best for me (or for anyone else on the forum) may or may not work best for you.

Cheers,

R.
 

Jed Freudenthal

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The film is not what makes the difference. The lenses of a view camera are made for another purpose than the lenses of a Hasseblad. I made a comparison between an old uncoated Sironar and a modern coated Hasseblad lenses in a landscape situation with much detail (Dead horse point in th US). The old cheap lens was far superior to the Distagon Zeiss lenses under this landscape condition.
Therefore, do not expect too much. Although, you might use a fine grain situation and avoid adjacency effects in the development process.

Jed
 

schroeg

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Try Efke KB25 in w2d2+ pyro. It is hard to pick up the grain in the grain focuser!
 

avandesande

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efke 25 in rodinal 1:100 semi stand. the grain is really nice, almost like little glass beads.
This is shooting 6x7 and enlarging to 8x10

I keep trying to switch to something else but I always come back.
 

MikeSeb

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Xtol undiluted; Delta 100 or TMX; FP4 or Plus-X also.

I love these threads. We get to plow the same field over and over again, and still the crop sprouts.
 

Ole

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I'm surprised to admit that I agree! Even in Rodinal, the IR 820/400 gives practically no grain in 24x30cm enlargements from 35mm film. Ilfotec HC 1+15 gives nonexistent grain and full 400 speed.
 

fhovie

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FP4+ in pyrocat - p like rodinal but better (reformed church of Rodinal)
 

Soeren

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fhovie said:
FP4+ in pyrocat - p like rodinal but better (reformed church of Rodinal)
Click to expand...

Thats blasphemy, there is no such thing......................better ha tsk tsk
Now you just wait till Morten (Modafoto) comes home
Cheers
Søren
 
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