Best Developer for New TMAX 400

peberg

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Other than X-tol, which I can't use because it only comes in 1 gallon packets, what do people think is the best developer and time and temperature combinations for new TMAX 400? I have been using TMAX developer 1+4 and find the results ok, but nothing great. Anbody had good results with Rodinal? Any other suggestions?
 

Jeff Kubach

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Sometimes I use D76, but that usually comes in 1 gallon packets. You can try HC 110, but I haven't tryed on TMAX 400. You just got experiment and see what you like. BTW welcome to APUG!

Jeff
 

mopar_guy

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I have used Formulary BW-2 with good results.
 

hadeer

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Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)

Hi,

I use D-76H 1:1, which I prepare in small quantities from stored bulk chemicals right before use. After some testing I found that 320 ISO on the dial gives me the best results. Consistant and with a nice tonescale too.
 
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hadeer

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Hi,
I use D-76H 1:1, which I prepare in small quantities from stored bulk chemicals right before use. After some testing I found that 320 ISO on the dial gives me the best results. Consistant and with a nice tonscale too.
 

JonPorter

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For 35mm and 120, I develop TMY-2 in HC-110 1:47 for 9 minutes at 68 degrees. Agitation is generally three inversions per minute. For both formats I expose the film at ISO 250.
 

2F/2F

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T-Max developer is "best" for this film, in a purely technical sense. They are made for each other to accentuate and complement each others' characteristics. If results aren't great, it is not the fault of the developer. It is likely the result of other things, such as using T-Max film in a situation to which it is not suited, metering technique, EI differences person to person, and general lack of testing of your film and developer. It could be that you just don't like T-Max 400. I like it as a "special-purpose" film, but not as a general-purpose film. Instead of flailing around searching for a magic developer, I'd stick with what you are using and spend some time doing some really serious testing of your materials. The way I look at it, when you can reliably predict/control your negative densities with what you have, then try judging the developer and comparing it to other ones.
 

fschifano

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Well, this really is a matter of personal tastes. I like TMY-2 a lot. I think it's far better than the older version and I have no problems getting box speed in D-76 1+1 or XTOL 1+1. I loke the look of the film. It is quite different from Tri-X, but I find it useful all the same. Kodak has recommendations for HC-110 Dilution B, for the film on page 4 of this document. If you are averse to using XTOL or D-76 because of the large quantities of stock solution you need to prepare, I think it might be a good substitute. If you already have HC-110, give it a try. It just might work for you. It almost certainly won't be bad.
 

MVNelson

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i love Tmax 400 in prescysol-ef (very similar to pyrocat-hd) , pyrocat is very inexpensive and you use it one shot with ratios 1+1+100 to 2+2+100. for sheet film I use BTZS calcs for roll film 1+1+100 @ 74F agitate first 60 secs then every 3 mins for 10 secs for total about 11 minutes. The acutance is superb and the highlight are easy to control. The developers have an extremely long shelf life even with partially full bottles.
BTW Tmax-RS developer is a great choice if you mix the little pkg into the bottle and then use it one shot either 1+7 @ 70F start 8.5 mins. Of course personal testing will net you the best results with any combo .....

Miles
 
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brianmquinn

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Just mix Xtol up in 2.5L. This will be a 2X solution. Then store in several small bottles. Dilute it in half (one part of 2x plus one part water) to get regular the concentration when you need to use it. You can dilute this regular concentration again to get the 1+1 dilution if you wish.
 

MikeSeb

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I like it at box speed in Xtol, D-76, or TMAX. I like d-76 slightly better than Xtol, and either better than TMAX. I'd happily use any of the three I happened
to have on hand.
 

doughowk

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For 120mm roll film, its my film of choice. Also for LF studio work. Just a great film. If my shutters were faster on my LF lenses, I'd probably standardize on it. Developing in Rodinal yields excellent results. Its amazing that an old formulae (Rodinal) works so well with this new film.
 

WarEaglemtn

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"T-Max developer is "best" for this film, in a purely technical sense. They are made for each other to accentuate and complement each others' characteristics.

Other than the name TMax developer has nothing to do with TMax film. It is an updated version of D-76(Per Kodak tech folk) and the name is a marketing tactic.

It works so you can use it. Xtol hasl many benefits that make it a better choice for the Tmax films. Buy the 5 liter packet and save the extra in jars until use. It isn't that difficult.

Mix Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD or variants and see how they work for you. His developers are excellent, very low cost and you only mix what you need. Easy to do and they work well.
 

jgjbowen

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I only shoot TMY in sheet film, but I use Pyrocat HD. I have seen some beautiful 8x10 enlargements from 35mm TMY developed in a Pyro developer, I think it was PMK. There was SOOOO little grain, that we all thouht it was from a larger format film.

Good luck and welcome to APUG
 

fschifano

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You might have come to that conclusion regardless of the developer used for the film. TMY-2 is very fine grained stuff, rivaling some 100 speed films. Kodak gives RMS granularity numbers for their B&W . The smaller the number, the finer the grain. TMY-2 scores a 10, the same as Plus-X which is almost a full two stops slower. TMX scores an 8, finer than both TMY-2 and Plus-X. 400TX and 320TXP comes in at a whopping 17 and 16 respectively, and nowhere near as fine grained as TMY-2. Ilford doesn't publish these numbers. Not sure about Fuji, but I think not.
 
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Mahler_one

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I'm not sure that one can provide any "best developer" for TMax 400. After experimenting with a few of the developers suggested here, and printing the negatives, you need to decide which combination of film, developer, and printing paper ( not to mention paper developer ) provides the "look" you desire. Once you have focused on a choice, you should then consider completing relevant exercises in an attempt to standardize your exposure and developing times. There are many choices of developers that will provide excellent results when such developers are used properly, and the film is exposed correctly. I am not being dismissive or at all flippant, but simply pointing out that the number of suggestions thus far should tell you that many developers will work to provide excellent prints. Let us know what you decide to use, and best of luck.

Ed
 

EASmithV

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I have had great success with Pyrocat HD (1:1:100), HC-110 (Dil B and Dil H), and D-76 stock.

I find it looks much better than the original TMX 100, Which looked flat and thin.

Then again, I spend most of my time pushing it to 1600. The grain is still great, but the contrast gets quite jacked.
 

tom_bw

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ajuk

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I normally use Rodinal 1+50 9:30, Microphen for a push, but I would avoid Rodinal 1+25, increases grain but I see little advantage in acutance.
 
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DramaKing

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Jeff Kubach said:
Sometimes I use D76, but that usually comes in 1 gallon packets. You can try HC 110, but I haven't tryed on TMAX 400. You just got experiment and see what you like. BTW welcome to APUG!

Jeff
Click to expand...

I just wanted to point out that you should be able to find D76 in 1 qt. packets pretty easily.

tom_bw said:
Just out of curiosity - what is the function of Borax?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't know what Borax would be used for here, but it's added to developers to act as an accelerator and increase the alkalinity of the solution. It also acts as a buffer, meaning that it resists changes in pH.
 
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