Best depth for dry side.

I'm in the final stages of designing a darkroom and wanted people's thoughts on the best depth for the dry side bench (table surface). I'll be wall mounting a Durst L1200 and a Saunders 4500VCCE above the dry side bench. I'm wondering if the distance from the front edge of the dry-side bench to the wall should be 24 inches, 30 inches or more. I'm about 5'6", so I'm thinking that 24 inches will help me reach the focus controls more easily (particularly on the 4500, which doesn't have control extensions like the 1200), but I don't want to limit myself by not having enough bench space for large easels when making big prints (i.e. 20x24). As an aside, the portion of the dry side bench where the L1200 is will have a pull-out surface (probably 30" wide) that can be lowered in 6 in increments to the floor. What would you recommend? Many thanks.

Leo

Any chance that you will be cutting window mats for large prints on that counter, or do you have another space for that sort of thing? Do you have a whopping big drymount press? My guess is that you don't, or you would have mentioned it.

Don't have another table for that. Will likely use the dry bench to cut mats. Don't have a whopping big drymount press, but I've been looking into used Seals that can handle 20x24s. It would probably go to the side somewhere if I can find the space.

My enlargers are on base boards. My dry side is 32 inches wide and that's barely enough. When making larger prints (16X20 max.) my easel may hang over the edge a little. Chazzy's comment is something to consider too. You might have the part under the enlarger wider and then the rest of the counter narrower. In that way you could reach the controls easier.

Mine is 36 deep. Works well to keep the easels on the table with larger prints.

These are 24" counters. I had to put new feet on the enlargers. It works fine but I don't think the extra room lets me reach the controls any better. I'd probably go with the 32" counters.
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Looks like 32-36 is better. Glad I asked. Thanks again.

Leo,

There is an extension tool to focus the 4550, but as I remember it is expensive and unpopular, $75-100, if you can find one. I have the 4550XLG which I believe means it has a higher post than yours. I also have a low 7’2” ceiling. To solve the problem of how to use the enlarger I built a low table that allowed me to sit in front with my knees under the enlarger. The table top surface is 25 ½ inches above the floor. The front of the table surface is 36” from the wall. It is a sheet of 3/4 “ plywood mounted between two kitchen cabinets and bolted to the wall. Both cabinets are three drawer units. When I am not using this enlarger I have an 18x18” paper cutter sitting where the easel would go.

You ask how do I focus that beast especially when the head is at the top of the post at the ceiling? The cheapest tool in my darkroom is an eight foot length of 3/16” clothes line. Wrap the middle of the line two and a half times around the fine focus knob and you can adjust focus with your eye on top of the grain focuser, pulling one or the other end of the line. You do not need arms like a gorilla, but of course having those makes it easier to file your nails when you walk on concrete.

I don’t know anything about the Durst 1200, so I can’t tell you if you could make the table wider and use the same arrangement. My other enlarger is a Durst 138S 8x10 conversion which stands on the floor opposite the 4550. My darkroom is 11’x13’. If there are any other details you would like, please ask. Send me a PM if I miss your post.

John Powers

I would determine the depth for the dry side based on everything else (cost, the size of the rest of the equipment you use, the depth of counter-top you find convenient, the drawers or shelves underneath) - not the size and location of my easel. I would then invest in an extension or two (the "pull out surface" you refer to?), for those relatively infrequent times when you intend to print 16x20, 20x24 or larger.

Matt

Mine are 30 inches. I think 30-36 inches would work.

Are you doing it yourself or having cabinets built? Some sizes are a "round number" for cabinet makers and therefore much more economical than odd sizes.

You might consider some vertical slots under the countertop for storage of large mat board, foam board, plexiglass, etc. that can be more difficult to store flat.

While you are at it, you might want to build a large lightbox into the countertop with a cover that is flush to the surface.

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Great advice. Never would've thought of that string trick. I like the pullout idea. Probably going to go 33, as I'm building it myself and did some experimenting with my kitchen counters last night to figure out the ergonomics. Already building in the inset light table and the vertical spaces. Can't wait to get started.

The string wrapped around the focus knob idea came from years of sailing a small 24 ft. boat single handed, or with non nautical guests, on Lake Erie. Essentially the focus knob becomes a pulley. On the boat everything was rigged to function while sitting safely in the cockpit. Things can get busy in a small boat if 12 foot waves and 30 knot winds come up unannounced as they do on Lake Erie.

When considering the pullout also consider rigidity. I believe you should laser align the setup once complete. Many enlargers are bolted to the wall as well as sitting on a solid place. The 138S, which is my primary now, weighs a ton, stands on a concrete floor and the top of the post is bolted to the concrete block wall. The string focus works there as well.

John Powers