Best-built SLR with great metering?

Diffraction

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Hi all,

I'm GAS-ing and am musing about which next camera I might purchase. Although I'm not sure I'll actually buy anything, I have recently got curious about what my favourite late-film-era SLR would probably be, and I thought it might create a fun discussion. Here's what I'd be looking for:
  • Excellent metering: something more advanced than centre-weighted. From what I've read, it seems like most manufacturers developed great metering systems in the 80s/90s, with Nikon and Minolta maybe leading the pack. From my point of view, I would like this because I might then feel comfortable leaving my external light meter behind. My most advanced camera currently is a Minolta XE-7, and while I like it, I don't trust its meter enough to shoot in aperture priority.
  • Excellent viewfinder: I'd like a very big, bright viewfinder.
  • Excellent build: I know it's probably superficial of me, but I love well built cameras. Ideally it would be made entirely of metal.
  • Relatively low weight & size: It doesn't have to be super-light, but I wouldn't like something huge with a big vertical grip like the Nikon F5.
  • Sub 500 USD in price. That rules out the F6, sadly.
Things that would be less important to me:
  • Fast autofocus: I don't shoot fast-moving scenes that much, so the AF wouldn't have to be amazing. It doesn't even have to have autofocus, I don't mind manual focus.
  • Lens selection: I might like a 35mm, a 50mm, and an 85mm, but not much more than that.
So far, my favourite is the Minolta Maxxum 9. It ticks all the boxes, with the exception of low weight, as it weighs almost 1kg. I also have a soft spot for Minolta, and like its design. But I was wondering what else is out there. The Nikon F100 seems to fit the bill mostly, but I'm not a big fan of its design, and I've heard bad things about its plastics becoming sticky over time, which sounds horrendous. I also just found the Nikon FA, which actually looks quite neat.

Anyway, curious to hear your thoughts!
 

Don_ih

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The first thing that comes to mind is the Canon Elan II. It has good metering but I think it's entirely made of plastic. And it's way less than $500.
 

RDW

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How about an EOS-1N or EOS-3? (the 1V would be the top pick from Canon, but may be out of budget).

I like the F100 design a lot (it's probably my favourite Nikon overall), but if you don't that's reason enough to exclude it (though it's worth actually handling any of these cameras first before you make a decision). I had a bit of the sticky problem on the back of the F100, managed by airing the camera and wiping the back repeatedly with some of that green goo they sell to clean keyboards. Others have reported success with isopropanol if the problem is more serious. This issue affects various cameras of the same vintage that use 'rubber' grips or soft coatings, from Nikon and other manufacturers (including Minolta). Earlier cameras like the FA with hard plastic grips are probably immune, though you may have to deal with degrading light seals. But the F100, a 'modern' semi-professional camera with AF that is still competitive today, is really in a different league to the FA. The lower weight and bulk made it preferable to the F5 for many photographers at the time, and it its ability to use AAs without a grip is I think an advantage over the much more expensive F6. The weak point of the F100 is the plastic catch that secures the back door. Spares aren't available except from parts bodies, unless you can find a data back. I've heard of a technician fabricating a new metal catch, but that isn't a commonly available repair.
 

Chan Tran

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If you think the F6 is good then you can get the F5 which isn't much different and for $500 or less.
 

Larry Cloetta

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I’ve owned, or still own an F6, an F5, an F100, A Maxxum 9, a Leica R8, and a Contax RTSIII, out of the category of late film era bodies, and a score of early film bodies, though nothing earlier than 1936. What follows is my “opinion” based on ownership and use. The F6 is the best film SLR ever made all things considered, durability, construction, viewfinder (with the caveat that viewfinders on the best AF bodies are not going to be quite as bright as those on the best MF bodies), and accuracy of metering in any lighting situation. It’s lighter and more streamlined than the F5. The Contax RTSIII (not the earlier ones) is one of the bodies body I chose to keep when I sold my F6. It has the best viewfinder of any of the cameras I mentioned, has all the bells and whistles most people need, top shelf specs, construction quality, fit and finish always seemed to me even a bit better than the F6, or any of the others, less obtrusive shutter sound, and nice to handle, personally. It either feels incredibly solid, or heavy depending on one’s view, but it just exudes quality. Bodies can be had for a tick under $500 due to less than rational repair fears among the camera buying public. If looking at a 35, a 50, and an 85mm lens kit, the lenses for this camera are reason enough to buy, and not expensive for what they are. Leica R8, also brilliant viewfinder, but these are now more than $500, and the lenses while great, are expensive for the most part, twice as much as the Zeiss lenses for the Contax without being any better (35, 50, 85), just different. Lenses for both are superb. The R8 has the potential advantage of not having a motor drive in stock form, so less to go wrong. The F100 is probably by far the best buy, the most camera for the dollar, an insanely good buy at under $300 for a nice one. For most people it does everything the F6 does, excepting fewer AF points. The “sticky rubber” thing is overblown in my opinion. Mine have always been fine, but worst case scenario, climate or whatever, if it ever developed just sprinkle some talcum powder on your hands and handle the body. Solved. Gives access to all the 4 trillion inexpensive F mount lenses out there.
 

Paul Howell

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F2 center weight metering.

For not much money the Minolta 9000, although it does not have matrix metering it does have 3 spot metering modes, without the motor drive light weight, will work with most A mount lens, exception are the SSM lens. Second Minolta 7, has matrix metering, as it came out after the 9 it will work with all Minolta and Sony A mount lens. Minolta 800si, has matrix metering, a pretty good AF system, nice eye level readout, down side is that is menu driven and needs a set of cards for advanced function such as bracketing. One of my favorites is the 600 or classic. Has same matrix metering and AF as the 800, slower film advance, but all button and dial driven, downside is that it not will work with SSM or Sony A mount lens. I have a 9 as well, only downside is that mine was not factory modified to work with SSM or Sony lens, and in bright sun the read out in the eye level finder is very hard to read. And then there is the 7000, has early matrix metering, very bright good viewfinder, unless you are shooting sports the AF is ok, most the top LED panels have some bleeding.

I have mostly Minolta gear, the lens are quite good, Konica Minolta kept their lens factory and made most of the lens for Sony, and 9 is beast. But, if I had to do it all over again I would gone Canon, EOS 1N or V, maybe a 7 or 3 for back up. Reason, all every full frame EOS lens will on EOS EF film bodies.
 
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abruzzi

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I generally don’t like AF cameras. I have a good collection of Nikon manual focus cameras and lenses, but every AF Nikon I tried was too big for my tastes. Then I found a Pentax MZ-S. It’s probably not the fastest AF, or the best metering, but it’s small and fits in my hand perfectly. It works well with AF and MF lenses, has matrix metering, and I’ve had great luck with slide film in it. It has a number of other cool features—recording exposure info on the film, the ability to remove a half exposed roll, then later the to reload that roll and return to where I was before.
 

George Mann

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Paul Howell said:
F2 center weight metering.
Click to expand...

My late photomic (late 75/early 76) not only has a wire ring resistor, but has dead accurate metering despite its metering pattern.

Plus, it feels noticeable lighter and better balanced than my F90x when used with a Butter Grip.

You can also send your F2 in to Sover Wong to have the meter converted to spot or partial spot.
 

George Mann

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On the auto focus side we have both the F801s/N8008s, and the F90x/N90s (lightning fast) which I prefer over any of the later models
 

John Bragg

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I have found the Nikon F5 to be about as good as it gets in difficult circumstances, and the Nikon F100 is close behind. If you know how to read and compensate for less than optimal lighting, then the centre weighted meter on an FM2n is all you will need. The F90x despite its age is also very capable, if less ergonomically advanced, and doesn't have the possibly terminal fragility of the F100.
 
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Philippe-Georges

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PENTAX LX:
- best auto exposure system ever!
- built like a landrover (not a tank...)
- modular system camera d'avant la lettre
- good optics
- large catalogus
I used it for about 20 years as a professional photographer for reportages, three bodies and nine lenses, never any issue!
 

Helge

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Canon T-70.

Light, cheap, has pseudo spot metering, which is excellent if you know how to use it.
The finder is among the best I have ever seen.
Only equaled by the screen in the Minolta X-700.
The X-700 has very good metering too but no spot or matrix like mode.

The various modes on the T-70 is a very good alternative to aperture priority. I prefer it to AP in fact.
It’s basically biased programmed modes for different kinds of lenses and action vs still.
Of course manual is also available.
 
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Bazza D

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I have a Pentax PZ-1P it is a amazingly good camera. It has three different metering modes and does so many things that you need a cheat sheet to use it. But I never use it. I find that I like my simple cameras much better. And I don't mind using a light meter. In the end, the camera has more features than I would ever use. I've been thinking about selling it but I also like having one late model SLR with all the bells and whistles.
 

mshchem

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A Super clean F100. I use 2 F5 bodies.

I would consider what lenses you want, then choose the manufacturer,
 

Paul Howell

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I keep forgetting about the PZ1 and MZ, I have the PZ1 which I do not use much, I tend to grab a Minolta, reminds me to dig it out and shoot a few rolls with it. Don't have the MZ-S which has a metal body, weather sealed, and improved metering.
 

Patrick Robert James

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If you like Minolta already then try to find a Minolta 9xi. Of all the "pro" cameras I have used it has the best shutter release/motor drive. By that I mean the shutter is released and the motor winds without a shock wave going through your hand. It is smoooooth. It really is a pleasure to use one and they are fairly light. Minolta lenses are super cheap which is a plus of course.

If you want Canon then the 1n is the way to go for your budget if you want the best. I've beaten on one of those for two decades and it just keeps going. They are fantastic cameras. Recently I picked up an EOS 5/A2 for nostalgia reasons. It was the first camera I ever bought. I've used it a few times in the last couple weeks and I really like it. Cheap too. Andrew mentioned it as well above. I'd say it is completely underrated/undervalued at this point.

If you want manual focus then there are a lot of options. You should pick the camera according to the lenses you want though.

I can't recommend anything out of the blue. My favorite manual focus 35mm SLR though is the Contax ST. It is the "little brother" of the RTSIII. The viewfinder is just amazing and it has pretty much everything you need in a camera. Zeiss lenses tend to be pricey though.

The Pentax and Olympus "pro" models had fantastic viewfinders too. The OM4 I think it was had a pretty complicated metering system built in. Multiple spot averaging even.

Hope that helps you.
 
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