Best B&W 400 film to be pushed?

digital&film · Jan 16, 2015

I have some HP5+, Tri-X, Kodak BW CN 400, and Ilford XP-2 35mm film, and would like to push it to 1600.

Film will be commercially processed ( www.ilfordlab-us.com ) and used at night in NYC (under streetlights) for street photography.

Which would retain the mid-tones and not be too "clumpy" grain-wise?

summicron1 · Jan 17, 2015

well, if ilfordlab is going to do it, i bet yu i know which film they'll recommend.

I've been pushing tri-x to 1600 (d-76, 1:1 13 minutes) with amazing success. I'm still experimenting with HP5 -- doing that in full strength d-76 for 13 minutes, like they say, was not the same as tri-x, more contrasty, not the same gray tones and the negs were denser, so I'm trying it at 800 (which is what I end up shooting the tri-x at most of the time anyway, being a fan of shadow detail) and hoping that doing it at d-76, 1:1 for 13 minutes (again, as per instructions) will at least be less dense.

but tri-x at 1600 in d-76 1:1 has amazing gray tones and so little grain even on an 11 by 14 print it was hard to believe the first time I did it.

sagai · Jan 17, 2015

I am having some happiness with Ilford Pan400 + rodinal 1:100 for 90min stand development that pushes 2-3 stops for me.
http://filmdev.org/recipe/show/9845

Pat Erson · Jan 17, 2015

summicron1 said:
I've been pushing tri-x to 1600 (d-76, 1:1 13 minutes) with amazing success.

13 minutes isn't that too little? I mean I also use d-76, 1+1 for 11 minutes... with TRI-X at EI 320.

darkosaric · Jan 17, 2015

It depends also how strong you agitate, temperature...that is why i always do the test to see what is good for me.

polyglot · Jan 17, 2015

TMY2 or HP5 are IMHO your best bet for getting a good high true speed from the film with a push. I regularly shoot TMY2 at 800-1600 with no issues, developed in Xtol.

Don't forget Delta-3200, it's awesome at 1600.

In my limited experience (it didn't work so I didn't persevere), the chromogenic films (BW400CN/XP2) did not push well. They are best when over-exposed or used in a high-key scene because they don't go grainy in the highlights.

Athiril · Jan 17, 2015

Here is a description of pre-flashing, no matter which film you go with, you'll get better results using this technique when dialed in to the right amount.

This technique will significantly increased recorded detail, improve contrast and grain. So I would use it if you didn't want 'clumpy grain', and retain as much tonal range as possible. And I would use it with T-Max 400 in accordance for those wishes for good grain.

http://strobist.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/how-we-got-here-analog-photoshop.html

I haven't used it on B&W, but I did use it on C-41 once.

No-preflash and push (Superia 800 to 12800)

Superia 800 @ 12800 no preflash by athiril, on Flickr

Pre-flash (finally at the right amount) and push (Superia 800 to 12800)

Superia 800 @ 12800 Zone 3 preflash by athiril, on Flickr

Ian Grant · Jan 17, 2015

I'd ask the lab what they can or can't push.

My preference was to push process XP1 and later XP2 to 1600 or 3200, Ilford used to publish dev times for pushing XP1 but wanted XP2 to be fully C41 compatible (XP1 used a non standard dev time which labs didn't like) and the push process times were dropped with the introduction of XP2. However XP2/XP2 Super can be push processed in C41 chemistry, I doubt the Ilford lab will do this though.

Ian

summicron1 · Jan 17, 2015

Pat Erson said:
13 minutes isn't that too little? I mean I also use d-76, 1+1 for 11 minutes... with TRI-X at EI 320.

that's what the kodak datasheet says to do, and i have been with, as i say, really good results.

An example:

Axle · Jan 18, 2015

I've done Tri-X at 1600 and souped in HC-110 Dil. B for 16 minutes and gotten some wonderful contrasty and grainy results, but overall pretty awesome.

Note: I didn't think that when I first saw the negs out of the tank...but I warmed up to them afterwards.

volver · Jan 18, 2015

I prefer Tri-X with Acufine, otherwise Hp5+ with DDX.

Tri-X with Acufine

Lamar · Jan 18, 2015

I have pushed a good bit of Tri-X, HP5 Plus, and Delta 400. I use XTOL almost exclusively with the occasional exception of Rodinal in stand development. At EI 1600 I find I like the results of Tri-X best but the others aren't too far off the mark for my tastes. Sample album below.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lamarlamb/sets/72157642379950774/

ericdan · Jan 18, 2015

I tried HP5+ at 1600 in Microphen and LOVE the results. I also really like Delta3200 at 1600 in Microphen.
I've tried Tri-X in a few different developers. At 400 I like it best in D-76. At 1600 I'm still looking myself.
Tried Tmax for a while, but not 100% happy with that.

astroclimb · Jan 18, 2015

same experience...

...as above. Had holiday trip to Europe, knew I'd have lots of low-light shooting this time of year esp in cathedrals, etc., so went with HP5+ at 1600 in microphen and happily the combo gave nice results.

gzhuang · Jan 19, 2015

T-Grain sucks. Sorry.

Best B&W 400 film to be pushed?

Attachments

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency