Bessa II light leaks.

[gezak22]

Howdy folks,

I recently bought a Bessa II Heliar and the first roll showed light leaks which were most severe in the rebate, but impacted the border of images as well. The bellows seem to be fine, so it appears to have been caused by light leaking past the frame counter. I sent a second roll through the camera, and this time I made sure to only use the frame counter when in the shade. In addition, I covered the window with black out curtain fabric when not in use. Unfortunately, the second roll still shows light leaks. What I find peculiar is a light leak that is visible past the last frame ... because I am fairly certain that I did not open the frame counter after the last frame was taken. But the shape of the light leak also seems a bit complex for a simple leak past the frame counter.

Can anyone confirm that what I am seeing is caused by the frame counter or not? I have read (but not seen sample images) reports of people claiming light leaks in the winding mechanism.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Bill Burk]

Light is leaking from the top fresh film side. (Because it’s the bottom of the image and the frame direction arrows show it’s not the “take-up” side).

There should be thin felt light trapping material on the body side along the hinge and on the back in the corner.

Check and fix any light trap material. At least protect that part of the camera from direct light until you can.

 

[Bill Burk]

Wait! It’s the other side (take-up side) - there’s nothing on frame 1… and it’s “in” the frame. The hinge is outside the gate. But so is the latch… and light leak is messing up the previously exposed frame.

 

[gezak22]

There is foam. But there is also a gap around the hinge.

 

[Dan Daniel]

If you put the film in the camera as it was shot, you'll find the leak location. In this case,, given the leak after the image on the last frame, it is coming on the left/feed side, upper side. And given the split in the leak, it is coming from above the silver roller which is creating the shadow in the center.

Maybe open the bellows and look at that part of the camera since this area is not far from where the bellows are folded into. In a dark room shine a flashlight from the front at this roller area and see if you can pick up a leak (give your eyes time to adapt). And look at both the top of the bellows and the area just behind the bellows.

 

[Bill Burk]

So check that bit of felt and integrity of the latch area by the winding knob.

Again, it’s the take-up side near winding knob. Make sure there isn’t corrosion on the body near the film. Mine has a speck of rust so I can imagine the metal could split

 

[gezak22]

I am with Dan on this. The first frame is fine, and there is fogging after the last frame, so it points to the feed side, not the take-up side.

Edit: Alright, I think I found the problem area. Ordering light seal foam right now. Thank you all for the pointers.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Uh.... can you provide some details on the problem and how you will be sealing it? Thanks.

 

[nanthor]

Those are great negatives, what a camera!

 

[gezak22]

My best guess for the moment is this area. There are seals but they are awfully thin given how big this crack is. I bought some seals on amazon and will try to replace the existing ones, perhaps even add something on the outside just to be sure this is in fact the source of the leak. I'll report back in ~ 2 weeks.

 

[Bill Burk]

Ok feed side. Hinge gap. Here’s a closer look. That’s the only place where I think light can get in like that.

 

[gezak22]

The foam seals have arrived (I ordered 1 mm, 2 mm, and 3 mm thick ones), and I installed the 3 mm ones. I'm leaving for a trip, so I'll just let the seals settle in (not sure if that is required or even a thing) until I am back. A roll of Delta 400 is already out of the freezer, so I'll be ready to fill it up once I am back. I should have it develop on Saturday, and I have a good feeling about this!

 

[gezak22]

The roll is drying so no pictures of the negatives, but there are still light leaks at the same spots. Since this is the first time I am dealing with foam seals there is a good chance I screwed it up, so I'll reach out to Blue Moon Camera to see if this is something they can handle.

 

[Dan Daniel]

It's coming from behind the left roller, not from the back seal. You can see the distinct shadow of the roller. I bet it is a crack in the body or the roller mounting hole and the light is coming from the bellows area. Next time you shoot a roll, do one frame without opening the front door (hmmm... probably need to open the camera in a dark bag to be able to wind?).

 

[gezak22]

It's coming from behind the left roller, not from the back seal. You can see the distinct shadow of the roller. I bet it is a crack in the body or the roller mounting hole and the light is coming from the bellows area. Next time you shoot a roll, do one frame without opening the front door (hmmm... probably need to open the camera in a dark bag to be able to wind?).

I see what you are saying, and I did find a crack in the body (near the roller), which I thought would be easier to fix with foam rather than machining.

I cannot trigger the shutter when the camera is closed, so leaving a frame unexposed is the best I can do. But Frame 7 in the first post shows no issues, so I don't think it's from the bellows area.

 

[Bill Burk]

So the new suspect area is front hinge near rangefinder, or the back corner where the strut goes. Did you find a crack there? This would show with a flashlight.

 

[gezak22]

So the new suspect area is front hinge near rangefinder, or the back corner where the strut goes. Did you find a crack there? This would show with a flashlight.

View attachment 365642 View attachment 365643 View attachment 365644

Bingo ... I think ... it is a very subtle leak that is more obvious at infinity focus than at MFD. I'll try to cover up the area between the silver and black parts just under the range finder.

 

[gezak22]

Light leaks aside (this appears to be a fixable issue), the camera rules.

 

[JPD]

It's a very good camera indeed. I have the pre-war version with the uncoated Heliar.

 

[Bill Burk]

Light leaks aside (this appears to be a fixable issue), the camera rules.

I think it’s about the best camera in the world and just lacks “double exposure lock” (Ikonta has that). Parallax correction would be nice to have. But those are its only weaknesses. Practically half a sheet 4x5 per shot.

 

[gezak22]

I think it’s about the best camera in the world and just lacks “double exposure lock” (Ikonta has that). Parallax correction would be nice to have. But those are its only weaknesses. Practically half a sheet 4x5 per shot.

The lack of double exposure lock is a feature. There were too many times I accidentally left the lens cap on my GW690, realized it after exposing but before advancing the film, and then advanced the film after I cursed at the double exposure lock. My understanding is that the double exposure lock is the thing that makes the GW690 so loud.

But yeah, parallax correction would be nice to have.

 

[Dan Daniel]

My understanding is that the double exposure lock is the thing that makes the GW690 so loud.

No, that isn't it. There is a spring-loaded plunger that flies across above the lens to trip the shutter that makes the CLANG. I think that it was deliberate, the loud noise.

I put a bright yellow 'daisy' extending over the edges of the lens cap on my GW690 so that it was visible in the viewfinder corner after too many lost frames!

Great photo. Such straight lines.

 

[gezak22]

I tried something, it didn't work, Advance Camera Repair in Portland agreed to take a look at it and I have my fingers crossed.

 

[gezak22]

The camera is back and I happy to report that the problem appears to be mostly gone. A very faint remnant remains, see bottom left of Frame 7, but I don't see it in all frames. Please excuse Frame 2 - I am not a smart man.

 

[Bill Burk]

That looks more like the shutter was left open and it spread around from the lens. Light’s supposed to get in there - just not that much. Yours might be about the best Bessa II out there.