Hi Kevs,
I use a hardener because the prints scratch when i try to take a little dust on them off. They are super fine scratchs I will admit but they should not be there. Also when you sepia tone a print it is highly recommend that you use a hardener. I use Kodak part b at 13 to 1, for 5 minutes. The prints are dryed on screens, face down. All chemistry has been replaced most often. The toner is fresh and Kodak rapid selinium toner at 1 to 20, usually for 5 or so minutes. The mottling seems to come more after toning. Toning makes the print weak, almost like there was no hardener in the print. I have even washed a print that had no problems and when it dried there was some mottling. There are also small spots like the size of a pin that are a dark gray in tone on a black background and I simply can not spot them out. The spotone does not change the tone at all. Where there was a "dust spot on the print no problem with spotting in and on the same print. There are only 2 things I can not account for. One is my water supply, it come from the town. I do have 2 filters on the line coming into the dark room., and they are changed once every three months. The hard part to all this is that after the excess water is removed from the prints they look really good, no problem. It's when they get closer to finishing drying that all the problems appear. At this point I might add that I do mostly nudes on a black background, so betweent the both they problems do tend to stand out much more dramatically then if you shoot landscapes. Mistakes on either or loook like they are high lighted.
Thank you fo taking the time to read the first post and now this and the time it took you to respond, it is much appreciated.
Tim