But note that I gave the formula for a lens facing normally. The formula for a reversed lens is different.
I certainly do remember them. My first 35mm was an Ashi Pentax SV. Still have it and have shot with it recently, though I never did any macro shooting.
Sounds like this exposure adjustment comes into play only when doing extreme close-ups or macro work?:confused:
Print out a quick disc, (its free) stick it in your wallet. By the time most get their tape measure and calculator out you'll have the compensation figured and the shot already done. The last thing I want to do when I'm trying to be creative is crunch a bunch of numbers. If you're more than ten times the focal length away then don't worry about bellows factor.
Ed, your first post confused me and your correction confused me more.
Are you trying to explain how to calculate effective aperture?
Most of us calculate effective aperture as (aperture set) * (1 + 1/(magnification/pupillary magnification)) and most of the time we ignore pupillary magnification. (aperture set) is the f/number, for example 11. Magnification is the size of the image on film/size of object, for example 1. In this case, the effective aperture is f/22. Doing the calculation doesn't really need a calculator.
Also please explain how to make sense of your formula with a lens whose focal length is longer than 150 mm?
Please don't tell me again that you worked in QC for a optical goods manufacturer.
QC is about statistics, not about optical design.
A 160 mm lens at f/16 would have an aperature that is 10 mm. i.e. 160/16 = 10.
A 320 mm lens at f/16 would have an aperature that is 20 mm. i.e. 320/16 = 20.
If you therefore "pulled" your 160 mm lens to a 320 mm length ...
Isn't this the large format and accessories catagory? It works fine on a 4x5 and it can be printed out to what ever size you want.The QuickDisc works on the principle of using magnification factor to determine bellows factor, just like the method I use. The QuickDisc is even simpler for large format, since the ruler measures in bellows factor, but it doesn't work for smaller formats where you might not have easy access to the groundglass to measure, or where the groundglass may be smaller than the target.
Another method to determine the amount of increased exposure you'll need.
Take the length of the lens your using and turn it into F stops, i.e. 120mm = 4" 150mm = 6", 210mm = 8 1/4", 300mm = 12"
...
The beauty is you will not have to search for anything, F stop scale should be in your head to draw reference from.
Cheers
I would love to see how lost some people would be if they were working with wet plate collodion. Where a light meter, scale, calculator, slide rule or pocket protector would do them no good at all.....lol
Ed, "T" stops report a lens' measured transmission, are used when getting exposure absolutely right is essential. Cine lenses are often, but not always, marked in "T" stops. I've never seen or heard of an LF lens marked in T stops, but this doesn't mean there are none, rather that if they exist they're not common...
f/stops are geometric, have nothing to do with transmission, and are used when calculating, e.g., depth of field. Effective f/numbers are f/numbers adjusted for magnification
Remember that because of light lost to reflections, real lenses usually transmit less light than their geometric f/stop numbers indicate. Since the really lossy reflections occur at air-glass interfaces, this is one of the reasons that lens designers used to try to minimize the number of air-glass interfaces. Hence, e.g., the Aldis Uno, Dagor types, Protars, ...
If you're going to lay down the law, please follow long-established conventions.
..Your empirical definition of f/stop is (a) unconventional and (b) nonsense. If you meant to say that the f/number is (diameter of the entrance pupil)/(focal length), you should have said so. You missed the point of my question about focal length. A lens can't form a sharp image if the lens rear nodal point is less than the lens' focal length from the film plane. Please revisit your definition with this inconvenient but true fact in mind.
Ed, were you serious when you wrote the following?
"The distance from the aperture to the film plane divided by the aperture diameter = f/stop.
Example: 150mm to film plane / 75mm diameter aperture = f/2"
This statement, copied direct from an earlier post of yours in this thread, is what I commented on. It is flatly wrong. Now, what did you mean?
Cheers,
Dan
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